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Heating element in the lower unit of the doubleoven broke.
First I disconnnected the breaker for the oven and then removed the broken element by unscrewing the screws that held it in with a nut driver. I then pulled the element out exposing the connected wires. I removed the wires from the element by pulling them off with my fingers. Using a set of hemistat pliers I secured the wires so they wouldn't slip into the holes at the back of the oven. I connected the new element by slipping the connectors onto the element and finished by putting the ends of the element back into the holes and securing it into place with the screws using the nut driver.
First turned off the breaker to the oven, I opened the oven door, took out the baking racks, removed the two screws that hold the element in place. Pulled the element out about 3 inches, disconnected the wires, Installed the new element in the reverse order.
Turn off the electricity Remove knob Unscrew old switch Lift stovetop & prop Remove wires from switch Remove switch Plug wires onto new switch Put new switch in place Shut stovetop Screw new switch in place Trim knob post Put adapter on post Put knob back on Turn electricity back on Cook dinner :)
I could see a visible burnout on the element. Got it really fast. Removed two screws, pulled it out, disconnected two wires. installed a new one in, and was done!
(e.g. First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires... Really really easy . I am a single woman with no repair experance and had no problems.
I started to smell burning electrical smell from the burner area and heard a "buzzing" sound from the burner control while the burner was on. Pulled the element and noticed that the wire coil end of the left element was burned and pitted from arcing. Pulled the range top up, used a phillips screwdriver to remove the terminal block clip from the range top. Upon inspecting the burner terminal block, I saw the brass wiper was missing from one side of the left slot, and there was considerable heat damage around the slot opening. The terminal block being replaced was already replaced earlier for the same problem. The appliance repair folks recommended that we use light cookware on the burner. Instead, ensure both element leads are fully inserted into the terminal block. I turned the power off at the breaker, used a utility knife to carefully slit the heat shrink tubing on the existing replacement, unscrewed the ceramic wirenuts, removed the old block, straightened out the range wires, slid the new heatshrink over the range wires, then twisted the new terminal block wires to the range wires. Screwed on the ceramic wirenuts, slid the heatshrink tubing over the wirenuts, and used matches to shrink it tight. The package contains an instruction sheet with simple instructions. Once the new terminal block was installed and the element terminals were fully seated, the "buzzing" from the burner control disappeared.
Switches were going bad and making a popping sound and smoking.
Pulled out the range, unplugged it and removed the upper back panel. The switches were held in place with two screws. Removed the old switches, detached the wires and plugged them into the new switches. Mounted the new switches, replaced the back panel, plugged the range back in and pushed it back into position. Appliance repair company wanted $370. I did it in 45 min. for less than $100.