MDE13PRACW Maytag Dryer - Instructions

What sounded like a drum roller problem, actually turned out to be a blower fan problem. Replacing the plastic blower fan which is mounted to the motor shaft is simple easily accessible from the front of the machine.

I was VERY please that the new roller came so fast(next day). I followed the excellent instructions on the video. I found the reason for the failure of the roller was the original roller had a metal wavy washer behind the roller and it broke apart and was ground up on the shaft which caused it to seize up. The new roller kit came with fiber washers. The video made this a very positive repair experience.

pulled front of dryer off pulled tumbler out and installed belt on tumbler drive pully very easy

I used the instructions on the video supplies by Part Select. Easy as pie. What a great idea to provide the video.

Watch the vid for the instructions however don't sweat trying to put on the belt from just the front. Save yourself some pain and open up the access panel in the back and slip the belt into place. I replaced the rollers, idler and felt from the from front. I used Gorilla glue because my model dryer did not have the tabs to hold the felt down. I used about 10 or so small clamps to hold the felt down as the glue began to set. I then put the dryer drum on top of the bulkhead front thing and waited until the next day to complete the install to let the glue set up.

I was ready to find a repairman on line but I wanted to know what the problem might be so they wouldn't overcharge me. I looked up the symptoms (loud clunking, eventually not drying the clothes, but the drum would still spin) and suspected it was my blower wheel after a couple of minutes of research. Then I found a video on You Tube on how to replace it. It looked very simple, just remove a couple of screws in the front of the machine, a couple more screws inside, unclip a couple of wires, and pulled out the old blower wheel. Sure enough, the center hole, which should be shaped like a "D" was worn away and looked more like an "O." Then I found out the part was very cheap on PartSelect.com. I ordered it late on a Saturday afternoon and it was on my doorstep when I got home from work early Tuesday afternoon! (I didn't even request a "rush" delivery because I had dried my clothes outside by that time.) Put the new wheel on, hooked up the couple of wires and screwed in all the screws and VOILA! I fixed my own dryer for less than $25!! I'm very proud of myself and feel I should mention I'm a woman who just bought this house with the clunky dryer from another woman who never bothered to have it fixed. The next day I tackled a dishwasher repair and succeeded. Next, I hope to figure out the squeaky air conditioning unit!

Don't attempt to start by lifting the top of the dryer. It must come apart from the front first. After acquiring acquisition of the top hold down brackets (Grey metal strips), you may lift the top.The dryer required complete disassembly as the drum rollers were in the lower (inside) rear of the dryer. Lots of sharp edges and corners. So be careful. But it's a job that can be done by a novice and I saved myself $500 by not buying a new machine.

Pulled two screws out of bottom of front panel,remove. Remove dryer drum front panel. Remove front panel of blower, remove clip,wheel. Replace with new one, reassemble in reverse. And were done.

The Parts Select instruction as to how to put the new belt in is a bit incomplete. All handy homeowners can ultimately figure out how to install the belt. The Parts Select video does not show a very important part of the project and that is-how one side of the belt from one side of the drum goes into the MOTOR PULLEY and which side of the belt goes into the IDLER PULLEY. A homeowner with no mechanical common sense would be frustrated because of 2 problems: 1) The belt would not be tight when the incorrect side is installed. 2) the belt would always be falling into the drum groove (which it should not).

I watched your repair video and decided to do the repair myself.It went very smoothly.Thirty bucks for the part and shipping. It would have cost one hundred and fifty to have it done. Thankyou parts select. Mitch

Opened front panel and found the blower wheel spinning freely on motor shaft because hub was broken. Entered model number in web site and found parts needed. Three days later receive parts and followed video procedure on the web site. My Dryer was exactly as shown in video. Parts fit and reassembled unit in a few minutes. Dryer now works quietly. You should have a retaining ring pliers to make thing go quickly.

Once the front of the dryer cabinet and the blower cover plate were removed, the diagnosis of the problem was a worn blower fan ("hamster-wheel" made of white plastic). When the dryer drum was turned, the blower wheel turned sporadically on the motor shaft and wobbled. A new one was ordered and installed. This was the cure.

I started by unplugging the dryer, removing the front panel, inner drum support panel and the drum and belt. Then I removed the front and back felt seals. When I installed the new seals, I bent all of the metal tabs out then bent them back in one at a time as the new seal went in. Then I drilled out the rivets on the front glide pads and removed the remnants of the old glides. After trimming the cork pads to fit,I used Gorilla Glue to secure them to the drum support panel then riveted the new plastic glides over the pads. I had to run up to Lowes for a new rivet gun (the old one disappeared) and got a nice Arrow gun for $20. I re-installed the drum, belt and drum support panel and turned the dryer on to test the new install. Everything worked fine so I re-installed the front panel. One note about the new seals, the drum will be a lot tighter and may need a few push starts until the seals work themselves in. I ran the dryer with no heat for about a half hour to help work in the new seals. Use smaller loads for the first few cycles. The dryer works great and is wonderfully quiet.

This is a Maytag DG412 Gas Dryer, at lease 25 yrs old. The first problem detected was squeaking, second the motor would not operate (detected overload sound), and gas to burner would light once then cut out with no further heating. . .Time for a tune up. Repair costs for servicing/repairing would have run in excess of $500. Purchase the motor, disconnected gas line, unplugged electrical. Removed front of dryer (2 screws), disconnected wires to door switch - remove door. Remove vent cover, dryer drum and belt. Remove motor mount bracket holding motor, (2) green retaining clips and disconnect electrical pigtail connections. The reinstall instructions for the electrical which came with the motor are pretty easy to follow once the new motor is reinstalled. Replaced (2) dryer drum wheels. Use a pliers with pins in the tip to remove the retaining clip. Slide wheels off with old washers (one on back and one on front). Thinking this was the source of the squeak noise, I added some Lithium Grease to the wheel shaft before installing - figure something is better than nothing. In this installation I also replaced (1) Holding Coil, (1) Booster Coil and (1) Coil which is mounted to the top of the gas valve plungers on top of the gas valve regulator. This was a pretty easy task. Instructions were clear on how to replace these coils, which I figured was the source of my gas flow shutoff problem. I do not recommend disconnecting the existing wire nuts from the existing components. These wires are connected to the controls of the dryer and you don't want to get them mixed up when replacing the coils. The best approach is to remove (1) magnetic strip holding the Booster Coil and Holding Coil first. Remove the old coils and set the off to one side. Next install the new Booster Coil (bottom coil) and Holding Coil (top coil)leaving the new wires exposed. Next, cut the wire from the old Booster Coil and splice together with old lead wire, (wire nut together). Next repeat the same procedure with the Holding Coil. Install the "O" ring to the bottom cover of the magnetic strip for these two coils - VERY IMPORTANT - Next, reinstall the coils and magnetic strip back in the exact location as when removed. Second step, remove the magnetic strip from the second Coil and repeat the previous steps and with the first. Once secure, the instructions say to test with soap and water for any gas leaks once the dryer is reconnect. This is to ensure that the "O" ring has sealed the gas valve plunger properly. The final steps are to reassemble the dryer drum - don't forget to put the belt on the drum before reinstalling. Next reinstall the drum front cover. Be careful that the fabric seal is properly seated round the exhaust vent where the cover marries with the exhaust vent. Next, reconnect the two wire leads to the door shut off switch on the front of the dryer and reinstall the door. Finally, on the back of the dryer, remove the gray access panel which reveals the pulley for the dryer belt. Attached the dryer belt in the same configuration as was previous before you started the work. At this point, with the gas line off and vent tube disconnect, I plugged in the dryer and tested the operation. . . .still I have a squeaking noise. The culprit was the tension wheel on the dryer belt. Rather than replacing it, I just hit it with some 3 & 1 oil. A couple of drops is all it took. I repositioned the dryer, connected the vent tube and gas line connection. Turned on the gas valve and tested dryer for operation. Results, the squeaking was gone, the gas valve allowed the dryer to heat properly and the motor worked perfectly. This project took me longer than a technician might have taken, since I took my time and was careful of the steps required. Total time was about two hours and saved myself about $400 in service charges. When installing the holding coil, you want to make sure that the coil is not setting on top of other screws.

I basically followed the video instructions. I ordered the 1st bunch of parts on a Sunday and had them by Tuesday. Once I took everything apart I discovered that the noise I heard was NOT one of the noises that I thought like the Drum Support Roller but was the blower wheel. The blower wheel flat spot was just worn out. So I ordered a new blower wheel the following Sunday and had it by Tuesday. But in the meantime I replaced the 2 rollers, 2 roller shafts, 2 front glides, idler puller, the tumbler belt, blower wheel with clip and some misc washers and retaining rings. That is OK the dryer sounds like new again. Thanks Dave