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Glides and felt worn out. Rust spots on clothing and clothes with strings getting caught.
First, I read the other posts and got a good idea as to how to do it. I needed to replace the upper felt and guides but decided to go ahead and replace the lower felt and the bearing holder as well. If I had been thinking I would have replaced the belt at the same time but, oh well.
Disconnect the electric plug from the wall. Pop the top using a medium sized flat head screwdriver. Disconnect the wiring harness at right front of the unit. Remove the two screws near the top of the front panel and squeez the retaining clips. You may need a pair of pliers for this but be gentle. Pull straight up on the front panel to remove it. To get to the bearing holder, remove the drum by first removing the access panel located at the rear of the dryer and removing the belt from the springloaded plastic pulley. With no tension on the belt simply pull up on the drum while also pulling slightly forward. The drum will pop right out but you will have to apply some pressure. There is no need to remove the three screws at the back of the drum on the inside. Once the drum is out, remove the two screws holding the bearing holder and remove the assembly being careful not to lose the single ball bearing at the rear of the assembly. Pay attention as to how the assembly goes together. Scrape off the old felt and glue. Like everyone else, I used a chisle and some GOOP. The old felt came right off with little effort and the GOOP cleaned off the old glue with not too much effort. Apply the glue that comes with the felt glides according to the instructions on the tube. There's plenty to do both upper and lower felt in that tube. I used some spring clamps to firmly set the upper felt. The glue sets in just a few minutes. The lower felt has a bevelled edge that goes toward the door and fits into a groove on the panel. Once the glue is set you you are ready to put it back together. Like everyone else, I took the time to vacuum out the interior of the dryer and collect the coins and buttons that had accumulated. I found it very easy to reinstall the bearing holder assembly by myself by working from the side of the dryer. I put a dab of grease on the single ball bearing to hold it in place while I reinstalled the assembly. Put some grease in the bearing holder and reinstall the drum, then the front panel and belt. Put the belt back on the tensioner and take care of the couple of lose end and you're done.
This is a "no big deal" repair that looks worse than it is. It took me about 2.5 hours to complete and I was taking my time and just enjoying the fact that I was doing it myself.
1. unplug the dryer, remove the aluminum vent and move it to an area that has a lot of elbow room. 2. remove the top lid with a flat screwdriver. It seems that the top lid was being held by 2 metal clips on each end. 3. on the right hand side removed the 2 wires from the front face of the dryer. this is the switch for the open door sensor. remember which wire goes where. 4. the on the left and right side will be one screw and one metal clip, unscrew and pop the front panel with a flat screwdriver. 5. in front of the drum remove the plastic clip that is used as a guide for the drum to be in place. 6. look in the drum and there is 3 screws that form a triangle shape. remove the screws. 7. remove the belt from the drum. inspect the belt. replace if necessary. 8. lift up and pull out the drum. 9. remove the rear drum assembly and replace it with the new parts. 10. repeat in reverse and your done. It took me 40 minutes the first time i replaced the rear drum assembly then i forgot to hook the belt up correctly and i unassemble the unit in 5 minutes fix the belt and assemble the unit in 5 more minutes. Now the wife is happy.
Took apart the dryer, definitely a two person job. Cleaned up a bag full of lint that collected in the dryer (can't believe it didn't start a fire!), removed the old glides and seals, sandpapered off the old adhesive, applied fresh adhesive, attached the glide and seals, waited for the adhesive to dry, reassembled the dryer. Now it's working like a charm!
Remove top panel with large flat screwdriver and 2 screws in back.Remove bottom panel with 2 screws.Release belt tensioner and remove belt.Remove 3 screws in center of drum inside.Remove drum. Remove rear bearing by pulling up on assembly.Replace all parts in reverse order.
Popped in the new door catch! Tightened the hinge screws( which work loose and allow the door to droop. The reason the catch broke!) Also put red Loctite on the screws in an attempt to keep them from backing out again! Working great so far!!!
Dryer would not turn on, no power. Since i already have replaced thermal limiter switch, i knew exactly what to do and also how to shorten installation
Remove 2 screws from back of unit, remove top by lifting and pulling up, set aside. Using pliers,needle-nose, remove the 2 wires from switch, then using a magitized philips screw driver, remove 2 screws holding switch to back of unit, replace switch, reassemble everything. 20 minutes, boom, ur done, dry some clothes now
No Heat, Dryer Runs, But Right Side Of Timer Would Not Advance, Left Timer Would
I used the percentage scale on this website to try and determine the likely cause. After reading several sites, I couldn't make sense of the timer not working on just one type cycle. When I got the dryer drum off, I could plainly see that one of the heater coils was broken. They get heat stressed and break down over time and a hard shake probably finished this off. This unit is 5 plus years old. It was Saturday and I had no heater, so I actually found it at a local parts supplier. Also replaced the drum bearing and the bearing cup in the rear along with the heater. BTW, a new heater comes with a HIGH thermal switch attached to it so don't buy it extra. The bearing cone also comes with a new bushing in the pack. I DID use the Thermal Limiter that I order from the site because I was already in there. Everything works great now. I may have gotten most off my parts elsewhere but this site was the biggest help of them all. I will definitely be back here again.
UNPLUG DRYER (this is key) Removed the top of dryer. used screwdriver and pliers to remove two screws and electrical connections then reinstalled new part stick the magnet behind the part to the back of the dryer to help control the small screws.
Clothing was getting caught between drum and front panel
First unplugged the dryer took off the top. Removed the 2 screws holding the front panel on. Scraped and cleaned old drum glide and lower basket seal. glued new seals on replaced lightbulb while I had it apart then reassembled. It was an easy job and the wife is now happy again.. Thanks to Partselect. Mike
Ordered in new Element. (took apart dryer first and verified the coil on the old element was broken).
-Disconnected power -Used flat blade screw driver and popped the top of the dryer off (two clips at front of the dryer on the door piece). Pull lid back and it will rest on its own. -Removed two screws on the inside of the front door panel then used flat blade to pop four clips off. Lift up then out to removed door panel, drum will fall down. -Removed small white plastic rest from front frame. -Removed back silver vent to access motor. Pull the belt tensor away from assembly and pull belt out. -Remove drum by grabbing belt and front of drum and forcing it up until it releases from the ball housing. Slide drum out of the front of frame/dryer. -From here you can see the heating element. disconnect the coil wires (pull them). These are in series so it doesn't matter how they go back on. Disconnect the thermostat wires (X is negative lead). -Removed the four screws from the back of the dryer to disengaged the element. Removed. -Reassemble backwards.
Dryer squeak during tumbling, worn front drum glide
Disconnected power cord; lifted top using putty knife to open spring holds on the sides of the top; released front panel by removing screw from each side;removed old glide and glue; glued new piece in place; reconnected all parts and let dry overnight.
A caution to take care of sharp/rough edges when removing old felt and glide. Goof Off worked well enough along with elbow grease to remove the old glue. A stonger solvent may have worked better, but did not want fumes and residue in the area.
Fit of new glide was straightforward and fit well to the lower felt glide..
(Turns out that the squeak was primarily from the rear bearing that needed some cleaning and grease, but am glad to have replaced the worn front glide)
