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The spinning wash arm above the glass rack broke off
The part broke off a while ago, and I did not want to call a repair person. The machine still ran, so I ran it with the part missing - the glasses were not very clean, but the repair call was expensive...
I figured that I had a snowballs chance of finding the part number on a molded plastic piece with no numbers printed on it. Boy was I wrong. I was able to choose the part off of a schematic of my machine right on the website and it linked me to the right part order form, so I did not even have to go back and find it on a list.
When the part came, all I had to do was unclip the old mount- with my fingers- no tools, and snap in the new part.
A for maytag for making it easy to fix A+ for PartSelect for making it so darn easy
Removed assembly holding the docking station to insure the passageway was clear. I reversed the flappers and noticed an improvement in cleaning then decided to order a new part. Installation was simple and the repair seems to have worked well.
First, we removed all of the screws around the perimeter of the interior door panel and lifted it up. (we didn't take it completely off because that would have required disconnecting wires so we just held it up out of the way.)
Second, the plastic on the latch assembly was broken so that part came out fairly easily. The hard part was disconnecting the metal prongs that plug it in to the door control wires. We tried everything--prying, pulling--and finally got all three of us in there. One pulled on the latch end of the prongs, the other pulled on the door wiring end of the prongs, and I squeezed the prongs in-between with needle nose pliers. This broke the prongs on the latch side, which was fine since we were replacing the entire latch (the directions in the service manual we downloaded didn't give any indication that disconnecting the prongs would be difficult--I feel like there must be a trick to it, but breaking the prongs worked fine too!)
Third, we plugged in the prongs of the new latch--went in easily!--and popped the new latch into place in the door. It wasn't held securely, probably because of the broken plastic, but we replaced the inner door and screwed it in place, and when we shut the door it worked.
I removed eight screws and installed the new parts. The replacement factory parts are better then the originals and the latch handle should not break again. Had I called for service it would have cost $149 (not incuding parts) just for them to show up to look at it and tell me that they need to order these same parts. Plus, I would have had to wait an addtional two weeks for them to order the parts and come back to do the repair since most service companies do not carry parts with them. Their parts are marked up and would have cost 30% more for the same factory parts I order from you. The parts including shipping were $36.30 and I had the repair completed in three days, including standard shipping time. Quite a savings! and very easy to complete the repair.
First of all, rather then spending the 44 dollars on the main door seal simply cut yours in halve and trim a quarter of an inch from the disintegrated ends and use superglue and glue these ends together. this glued end will now be up top and in the middle and new clean ends will be down in the corners. next I removed the plastic door panel using a torxhead screwdriver, I just stuck the new inner foam pad on the old one. Then I glued rubber washers to the inner frame about 1/8 thick in the top 2 corners only. Finally I reattached the plastic door being careful not to tighten the torx head bolts just tight enough. It's dry and working good.
Accumulator was as easy as just removing srews and replacing the part. The Float I broke by accident and was more complicated to replace required 2 people to manage parts. Dishes finally coming out clean!
portions of the upper and lower rack had deteriorated and were rusty
We took out old racks and installed the new ones. On another note, after ordering (or trying to order) parts from appliances older than 10 years old several times, I think manufacturers stop making parts after 10 years. So if you're thinking of replacing a part on an older appliance, try to look for it sooner than later.
Removed filter cover and filter and found the plastic chopper sleeve was stripped out. Followed instructions that came with the seal kit to replace it.
Very simply, the handle broke, making it difficult to open the dishwasher
Removed inner stainless steel shell of the door,revealing the broken latch/door handle. The old one fell out, and the new one snapped in. It was as easy as that!
Needed to change out front panel from Black to SSteel
Open door fully. Remove all screws that hold inside panel to Front panel. Carefully remove Inside panel being VERY CAREFULL not to pull wiring out of door switch [top of door] and operator switch panel [also top of door]. Remove door switch, next remove 3 screws holding switch panel in place. Remove the top plastic section where switch panel mounts and set aside. Carefully remove green ground wire from bottem hinge for door. [right side] Next CAREFULLY remove front panel from hinges using EXTREME CARE not to let hinges "free fall" to the open position. Remove old panel. Install new panel in the reverse order as the old one was removed. DO NOT PANIC if you happen to pull the "ribbon cable' out of panel switch. It will plug back in very quickly and only one way. Just make sure it is "seated" in plug. The "key word" for this panel replacement is CAREFULLY.
The dishwasher door handle had become increasingly difficult to open and then would not work at all.
First, I turned off the power to the dishwasher at the main box. Then I removed the 10 screws holding the interior stainless steal cover to the door. I removed the broken handle and the broken piece from the door. I snapped the new handle in place and replaced the 10 screws before turning on the power.
This was the easiest repair job I've done and it saved me at least $100 dollars in labor.
Thanks to all who have submited their stories. Great help!
plastic latch broke off so the door would not lock when washing the dishes
Removed the inside door panel. Had to borrow a friends power screwdriver with a star shaped bit to do this. Removed old latch and inserted new one catching the prongs so they could now lock and unlock by pulling up on the latch. rescrewed the inside door back and all was done.
1 - Disconnect the electrical power 2 - Open the dishwasher door 3 - Use Allan wrench to remove the screws from the inside door panel 4 - Separate the inside pane from the door 5 - Remove the latch assembly 6 - Use a screw driver or pliers to remove the electrical connectors from the broken latch assembly 7 - Connect the electrical connectors to the replacement latch assembly 8 - Place the replacement latch assemble in the door 9 - Replace the inside door panel 10 - Replace the screws to secure the inside door panel 11 – Reconnect the electrical power
Take out 12 screws, replace the handle assy, replace the screws in door, done. Took every bit of 10 minutes. I used my power screw-driver with a torx bit.
Disconnect the power,open panel and remove screws with the exception of the two bottom ones. This allows the panel cover to be opened far enough to pull latch assembly clear. Remove electrical contacts (2) and put defective unit aside. Connect new latch unit to both wire saddles,line up unit with proper holes and install two screws. Once fixed in place,install all other screws and switch power back on.Do a short test run to check for any leaks