MDBH970AWB Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

The original brackets that hold the water distribution manifold to the back and top of the tub came off the "X-shaped" plastic posts on the tub walls. That caused the upper wash arm to sag down into the travel of the upper dish rack and was broken off when the rack was pushed in.
I bought 2 new brackets and a new wash arm. The new brackets had a smaller aperature than the originals and fit tightly onto the plastic posts, holding the manifold firmly in its proper location. Replacement of the brackets and the new wash arm took less than ten minutes and required no tools!

1)Turn off breaker to dishwasher.
2)Remove screws that fasten plastic liner to outer door with allen wrench.
3)Disconnect two wiring connections to latch assembly; this was toughest part of project, had to use pliers to get metal connectors our of sockets.
4)Connected new assembly and screwed door back together.

Not being very computer literate, the most difficult part of the entire venture was navigating your web site. But I finally found the part I needed. I paid on line with a credit card, and received the part within a few days. I popped it in the dishwasher, and it took three days before my son noticed it.
He was surprised and I was proud to say " I ordered it on line."
All's well that end's well.
I would difinately use your service again.

disconnected unit (electrical, water, and waste) un mounted from countertop, removed from under countertop, unscrewed hose clamb, cut off wire tie. Attached new hose and wire tie (not included) reversed above steps. Done in about 15 minutes

I unscrewed the door panel. removed the plastic cover protecting the dispenser. unscrewed the dispenser (6 screws). I removed the old dispenser and put the new one on and put it all back together. It was pretty easy.

First replaced rubber seal around door, which did not stop the leaking.
Then ordered insulation foam strip and replaced old one, which fixed problem. Put new strip over the old one because tub was slightly warped.
Very pleased with order speed and cost.

This isn't a how to fix it....it's what part was bad. I had originally contacted the local Maytag repair center and the owner swore up and down that our problem had to be the thermostat and not the heater. He said he had only replaced maybe 5 heaters in 15 years. But our heater looked like heck, with hard water deposits and all, and it wasn't that old, but we went ahead and ordered the thermostat from PartSelect, which came in a day. The problem wasn't the thermostat, so we ordered the heater from PartSelect (again, only one day delivery) and our dishwasher is working again. The heater coil actually had a hole in it from some sort of corrosion. My 18-year-old son did the repair job in a jiffy.

Unpluged the electric, Disconnected the water line and the drain line. Removed the dishwasher. Removed and installed the new water inlet valve and the float switch. This was a very simple repair. Reinstalled the dishwasher and connect
the water and drain line. Pluged in the power line. Turned the dishwasher on and it worked perfect. Thank you for the correct parts.

Used torx bit to remove screws on door and removed the back of door. Removed wiring from switches (2) on broken latch and removed latch. Plugged in switches on new latch and placed latch in position. Screwed back of door into place and that was it! Very simple task and new latch looks and feels much more sturdy than old one.

After replacing the door gasket and seeing that this wasn't the problem, using the schematics found at partselect.com I finally realized that it may be the insulation foam strip. I ordered the product and received it very quickly. Installation went fairly quickly. It was easy to remove the old foam strip and install the new one. The only problem was that the foam strip was about 1/4 " too short and it didn't cover the entire bottom. I improvised a little bit and cut off some of the old strip and covered the gap. So far the leak seems to have been fixed. In addition to the foam strip I had to buy a torx screwdriver for $11 at the local hardware store. The total spent was around $25.

All that was broken on the old detergent dispenser was the door but the door can not be ordered without buying the whole detergent/rinse aid assembly. When I got the new item I just removed the old door and replaced it with the new door that I had taken off the new one. I still have the new detergent/rinse aid assembly that I can keep if I need to change it in the future.

First I removed the screws and disasempled the plastic covering that held the slide in place. I then replaced the rack adjuster and replaced the screws.

This was exciting for me as I was not about to wait for my husband to do it as I had a load of dishes in the sink just waiting for it to be done!

It was amazingly simple and the hardest part was remembering where in the rack it was to be replaced! I was back in commission within 15 minutes (It would have been 10 if I had placed it right the first time!!

Turn-off the dishwasher power at the circuit breaker. Open the dishwasher door flat. Remove the 11 screws around the perimeter of the door using a t-20 torx bit (available at any hardware store). The latch assembly is held on by the top middle two door screws. Pull latch assembly out from top of door. Remove the black and white cable assembly connectors from the latch assembly making sure to note which side each color is on. If you have trouble sliding the connector off, use a flat screwdriver carefully to pry it, but do not pull on the wires. Install cable connectors onto new latch assembly making making sure the black and white cables are on the correct sides. Position the door at a 45 degree angle and place the latch assembly into position while putting the white inner door over it. Reinstall the 11 torx screws around the side of the door being sure the screws are snug, but not overtightened. Test the operation of your dishwasher. The new latch assembly seems to be built better than the factory original.

1. Fully opened door of dishwasher.
2. With star driver, removed 11 screws from the insde edge of door.
3. Outside front panel of door then is separated from inside panel slightly to again access to, latch assembly.
4. Verified that replacement part matched existing part.
5. Lifted out damaged latch assembly and disconnected the two electrical leads by gently pulling on the insulated connectors.
6. Connected the electrical leads to the coresponding connections on the new part and replaced in the reverse order of above.
7. Total time for repair was 15 minutes.

1. Removed the screws holding the front panel on
2. Turned off the power (should have done this first!)
3. Disconnected the two wire set(s) to the latch handle. Had to use a screwdriver to pry them off, as they are very tight. Do not pull on the wires! Remember to mark which side is the white and which is the black.
4. Disconnected electrical circuit board ribbon cable that connects the control panel to the circuit board box (big black box with many wires running to it) by tugging on it (since it gets discarded along with the old control panel, you don't care if it gets damaged). Remember to mark which side of the cable goes in which side of the box (the pattern of wires varies by side - one side has thin wires going to thick, the other side is the reverse)
5. Removed screws holding control panel onto front of dishwasher - control panel and latch handle now slide off and were discarded.
6.a. This was the tricky part - reconnecting the circuit board ribbon cable to the circuit board box. You have to slide a thin, flexible ribbon cable into the mating connector in the black box. I found this impossible to do by just pushing on it, so I had to disassemble the circuit board box. To do this, remove all 4 wire sets - two of them just pull off, and two of them have small latches that you need to depress with a small flat screwdriver and pull simultaneously. Not really hard, just don't yank hard on the two sets with the latch or you might break them. Fortunately, I don't think you have to mark anything, since I think all the wires can only go back in the right way when you are done (but if in doubt, mark them!) Unscrew the screw on the black box and it opens up easily.
6b. Look at where the ribbon cable connects, and you'll note the connector has a two piece design - one part slides in and out by, oh, 1/8th of an inch. Pull the one part out and then insert the ribbon cable, and when you push the connector part back in, it draws the ribbon cable in nicely
7. Reassemble everything -
black circuit box
wire sets to latch handle
etc.

The circuit box ribbon cable is the key here - if it goes back in the wrong way, or not inserted far enough, your dishwasher won't work, and you'll get to do it all over again...