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external door latch snapped off
1. remove inside door panel 2. verified the part needed using partselect web site (entire latch assembly). 3. removed connecting wire sockets and replaced part and door (simple process).
First I made sure the breaker for the appliance was turned off!
I only had to unscrew all the screws from the inside door.
Next I used pliers to pry the old Latch Assembly (it is all pig tailed so only to plugs to undo).
Next, I snapped the new Latch Assembly into the two sockets.
Screws were replaced and wa la!
Turned breaker on and tested. Easy as pie. Took about 10 minutes from collecting the tools, fixing the problem, and replacing all the tools.
I actually had my 14 year old daughter do it so that she could learn how to make small repairs. This would have easily cost approximately $150 for a repairman to come and fix.
Then we went to the garage and unstuck the valve on the carberator to our '75 Chevy! (it was cold).
Ordered part. (Part was larger than the original . That is it dis not fir int supports tha same as rhe original. Hut i modifird the support by assin copper wire to fanten the heater to the supports.) The instalation was no pronlem with a little engineering. Works like a charm, Wife Happy Most important result. Elmer
I watched a couple of videos on Youtube, and for once it was actually easier than anticipated. Unplug unit. Remove door screws. Separate inner door from outer door. Remove connector from dispenser (needed flat blade screwdriver to pry it at first.) Remove six screws holder dispenser in. Removed old dispenser, inserted new one, tightened six screws, re-connected wires, attached inner door to outer door, and was done in literally less than 10 minutes. Note: I was using a battery powered screw driver to remove the screws, so that's one reason why it went so fast.
Removed two screws at the top of the base washer. Three screws removed down both sides of the base washer. Lifted washer out enough to see the cable and spring connections. Removed cable and replaced with new and re-connected. Slid washer back into position and installed screws.
After 22 years of virtually trouble -free service, I could tell by the sound that something was wrong. Water fill ran too long. Float not stuck. Checked and found float switch stuck.
Very simple. Remove bottom panels. Remove one screw holding old switch in place. Move wire connections from old switch to new one. Cleaned and lubed the switch actuator. Mounted new switch. Checked that float and actuator worked freely. Left bottom panels off till I ran a load - just to be sure all was OK. Remount bottom panels...Done! P.S. Don't forget to turn power off to dishwasher any time you work on it!!
No repair needed, just inserted the new dishrack. My only complaint is the lack of upright tongs in half of the rear section of the rack. This limits the number of dishes that can be stored. My original rack had tongs in all areas which better suited my needs. If there is a replacement that better suits my needs I would like an exchange.
Pull dishwasher about 1/2 out of cabinet. Remembered to turn off power just in time. Removed electrical leads. Hand removed nuts retaining the heating element. Installed new element - hand tightened nuts.
I have done two repairs, and both times PartSelect.com came to the rescue! The first repair was a few years ago when the dishwasher would run but nothing got wet. It made all the right noises except the sound of water being thrown around, because no water was being pumped! This resulted from a cheap plastic "chopper" assembly that stripped and wouldn't drive the impeller. PartSelect sold me a solid metal replacement part for under $10 and that fixed the problem for several years.
Recently, we had a different problem where the dishwasher completely haulted and the wash motor wouldn't run. This was caused by a faulty impeller, another cheap plastic part. The wash impeller fragmented around the drive shaft to where it sat uneven and thus created too much resistance for the motor to drive it. I removed the impeller, superglued the plastic parts together so that I could then wrap them in copper wire (about 1mm diameter), and then I hot-glued over the copper wrapping to secure the entire thing and to help keep water out of it. I did this so that we could wash dishes while we waited for the new impeller. Well the new impeller came several days early and so far I have just been too lazy to go remove the makeshift part. I figure it will fail sooner or later and then I will install my new part which should give me at least 9 more years of trouble free washing!
The door wouldn't close and it thought it the sensor was constantly open so it would turn on even if the door was wide open. Took the 10 or so torx screws off and removed the cover. Lifted the old assembly out and had to use pliers to get the wires detached from the door sensors. Attached the sensors to the new assembly, replaced the cover and screws and that was it. very easy fix.