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leaking water onto floor
replaced the poorly designed "duck bill" drain with this P trap. Very simple repair done by accessing through the back of the refrigerator. The video on this website walked me right through the repair. It did however fail to mention that the ice has to be removed from the inside. I had to remove the drawer face and pull outs. Then the ice maker and back panel are removed. I used a heat gun and screwdriver to chip and melt the ice build up. If one had the luxury of having another refrigerator to move food in to you could just unplug the unit until the ice melts.
The frost free drain behind the freezer compartment clogged and water collected in the bottom of the freezer and eventually came out the door on the right front of the refrigerator.
The other instructions and the video provided by Parts Direct are pretty good with instructions, but they omit two steps. First, if you have an ice maker, you will need to unplug the connector on the back side of the panel you remove at the back of the refrigerator to access the drain tube. Just unplug it and you can move the removed panel to the side without disconnecting any of the water lines. Second, the instructions say to just reconnect the "bottom end" of the new p-trap drain to the drain pan at the bottom of the refrigerator. They don't tell you there are two places to connect the new p-trap to the drain pan. The original tube/trough connected to the one at the back of the drain pan on the left (viewed from the rear of the refrigerator). At first, it looks like the new p-trap won't reach to it for the connection, but if you look closer, there is another connector to the right of the original one that the p-trap connects to properly. Replacing the drain trough with the new p-trap was actually pretty easy and would only take about a half hour. Add another half hour to give the refrigerator coils a good cleaning as they will need it now that you can reach them. The real time consumer, 3 to 4 hours, is needed to use a hair dryer to melt and clear the ice from the condenser at the back of the freezer so the water can drain. Just take your time and all the ice will eventually melt and drain out so the new p-trap will work properly.
All three lights are not working...lights are off but refrigerator still cooling. Also, the control box not lit up to show the temparture for freezer and refrigerator
Used a screw driver to pull old switch. Pulled one wire at a time, only two wires. After wires instlled to new switch push new one back in place where the old one was.
I simply removed the old switch using 2 small screwdrivers and the old switch case popped out. I then upluged the wires from the old switch and reversed the process. Didn't take longer than 5 minutes begining to end! Thank you for the great service! Duncan quaid
Took too panel down. Remove.bulbs . Unplugged refrigerator. Removed electronic control board .installed new electronic control board. Plugged in refrigerator , programmed control for ice in about 1 hour refrigerator went to work and got cold Simple operation. Donald Harrell, Don's Repair Service .
Watched video. Unplugged refrigerator and popped out switch. In plugged connector and pushed switch in place. Plugged in refrigerator and the light worked
Refrigerator would cool for a very short period of time. Then the compressor would shutdown via internal thermal overload or high head pressure. This was caused by the lack of airflow across the condenser coils and compressor.
(1) Slide out appliance and remove power source. (2) Removed lower access cover on rear of refrigerator. (3) Disconnected plug to the condenser fan motor. (4) remove blades by pulling gently forward (5) remove mounting hardware holding the fan motor (3 screws) (6) motor is now free and new motor can be installed
Ordered new fan motor Got part took fridge apart Result was the motor was running The fan blade had come off the motor Replaced the motor anyway and reinstalled the fan, working well
Defrost cycle not kicking in. Refrigerator not cooling. Freezer working.
I replaced the control board first. The freezer back panel frosted up and the refrigerator warmed up again. Then I force (short option vs long) defrosted the refrigerator. However, a few days later the defrost issue came back again. Force defrost no longer worked, though likely due to a severe ice build up behind the freezer panel. I ordered the wire harness. I took off the freezer door (loosen four screws only), removed the tray rails, ice maker, thermostat housing and vent mounted on the freezer panel. The rails and the vent are a bit tricky to remove since no directions exist. I then removed the fan above the coils and then removed the wire harness. Installing the new harness is easy except that I had to modify one of the ground connections for it to mount properly. I tested the unit for 72 hours. The defrost cycle eventually kicked in (dripping onto a pan and sizzling sound). I then reinstalled all parts. No frost build up. Good to go!
Took a putty knife and Removed the old switch removed the spade terminals from the old switch and replaced them on the new switch and just pushed the new switch back in place
Removed the 2 screws holding the light bulb shield, then the 4 uolding the metal panel. Unplugged the olw door switch and replaced. reassembled the pieces.
I first removed the bottom shelf. Then I popped the rail in. It was pretty easy although I did have to use some force to fit it in. Ordering the part and doing it myself was a lot cheaper than calling the repair man.
