LSG7804AAE Maytag Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

After first unplugging the washer and shutting off the water to the washer I slid the washer away from the wall. It was a tight cramped space and difficult to get behind it. Most of the time replacing the water inlet valve was spent getting into and out of the work area to get tools and cleaning up a few years of dirt under the washer and water leaking from the hoses after they were removed. The valve removal and re-installation of the new one was pretty straightforward.Just a 3 screws 2 electrical connectors and three hoses. The water inlet hoses were frozen on the old valve and required a wrench to free. I also needed to replace the hose washers which fortunately I had as spares for my garden hoses. I replaced the solenoid leads directly from the old to new valve so as not to get that wrong. Removing the outlet hose clamp was tricky- I needed a fat wrench to depress all the tines and slip it off. Fortunately I was able to reuse it. After securing the mounting screws and tightening the inlet hoses with a wrench just until I met some resistance, I turned the power and water back on and prayed there were no leaks. None- back in business.

The dryer was not getting hot the clothes we're damp and had to put on hangers to finish drying. I pulled the cover plate saw the element was glowing the gas cable would kick on had a flame for about a four to six second count. I did some checking on the web. I read about others who were having same type of problem. Order the limit part and now.the flame stays on for about twenty second or less the dryer gets hot and it drys fast. Thanks for the web site. It took about thirty minutes . Now it works great.

Turned off circuit breaker. Removed two screws at base of front panel with stubby Phillips-head screwdriver. Swung panel up about 30-degrees, and removed panel, disconnecting red and yellow wire to door switch. Removed four sheet metal screws and took off large drum support bracket. Checked drum support rollers and shafts. They were fine. Reset circuit breaker and turned on dryer. Rattling noise still present.
Removed six small screws holding blower fan assembly. Shaft receiver on squirrel cage fan was worn completely round (it should fit onto a half-round shaft). Ordered new blower fan from PartSelect.com. Replaced tonight, and it works beautifully. This dryer is 29-years old. All it's ever needed in the 10-years I've owned it is a belt replacement and this repair. Long live the 1970s Maytags, and good parts suppliers like this one.

Pulled the big front panel by removing two screws near bottom of front and pulling out at bottom until the top pops loose. Vacuumed out all of the dust and checked for loose connections. Ran dryer - igniter would light, but no gas. Checked the two solenoids with a VOM. the one with the two leads would intermittently read Infinity (open). Super simple repair. Remove two screws on solenoid bracket on top of the gas valve, Replace solenoid and plug it back in with the easy push-on connector. NO PROBLEM - all fixed.

Removed the screws and took the door off then took the front panel off and popped up the top. Then pulled the drum out. Took snap ring pliers and removed rollers and replaced with new rollers then vacuumed all lint from machine and reversed operation to put everything back together. Operation was a total success!

Unplug the dryer and remove the front panel (two screws at bottom of the panel), being careful of the door switch wires attached to the front panel. Using an ohm meter, I checked the ignitor for continuity and found it was open (should be 50-100 ohms). Make sure to check the solenoids on the gas valve. When the igniter goes bad, it will usually burn out the valve 1 solenoid boost coil (the one with 3 terminals), which was the case with my dryer. The solenoid coils are held in by a bracket with two screws (series 01 dryer) and are easy to remove and replace. Be careful replacing the igniter as the heating element is VERY fragile. Take the time to vacuum out all of the accumulated lint and dust inside the dryer while the front panel is removed, including the lint trap and duct. New igniter and boost/hold solenoid fixed the problem.

Unfortunately, I couldn't find instructions for removing the top for exactly this model. First step was to remove the front panel by removing the two lower screws, grabbing the bottom of the panel, and lifting up until the clips on top of the panel let go. Next was removing from underneath the two screws towards the front that held the top of the washer on. This gives you easy access to the Fill Injector, but if working alone you'll need something to prop up the front of the top lid while you work on it. There is one screw that hold on the Fill Injector assembly (top and bottom). This screw is removed from the top, via the control panel. To get inside the control panel you need to remove the back of the control panel (very easy), just unscrew the 5 screws on the back of it. Then remove the one screw that holds the Fill Injector assembly in place. From under the front panel, use your pliers to remove the hose clamp and then remove the Fill Injector from the hose. ONE IMPORTANT ITEM, YOU'LL DEFINITELY NEED A REPLACEMENT HOSE CLAMP. The one you remove to take off the old, broken fill injector cannot be put back on. Put the new clamp loosely on the hose, then connect the hose to the new Fill Injector Assembly. Put the Fill Injector Assembly in place and use a piece of duct tape to hold it there. Then reinstall the screw that holds it in place from the top, inside the control panel. Reinstall everything in reverse, give it a test and then have a beer. You've just "given it to the man" and saved yourself $100+ on a repair bill.

Drum on the Maytag washer was not spinning is a true rotational pattern. Adjust or replace the centering springs.

How-to-description
I had to hack saw off the centering springs eye bolts since they were rusty and not adjustable. If you have to cut the old eye bolts as I had to, be careful... the spring will jump up an inch or two very quickly and you want to keep your hands clear. It makes a load noise and my wife asked "what happened". Not a big deal, just be aware of the spring returning to a normal state.
Place the new eye bolts in position and tighten the nut with 4 turns. With duck tape I held the eye bolts in place from under the machine. Had my son push the drum towards the replaced spring to shorten the length of the end of the spring to the eye bolt. Stretch the new springs with a long screw driver, one end against the washer body, and the other end near the handle. Pulled down on the scrw driver until the spring can hook onto the eye bolt. Before cutting the old eye bolts I measured the length of the eye bolt from the spring to the frame. Adjust the new eye bolts to the same length after the spring is stretch onto the eye bolt. Overall a simple project, cost $40 for me and the best advice is using the long screw driver to pull down on the springs.

Determined the tub seal was bad and ordered the seal and tub bearing. Removed the front cover with two phillips screws and unbolted the top to lift back. Removed the agitator with 1/4" setscrew on side and lifted out. Using punch and hammer, broke the inner tub nut loose (clockwise is off). Lifted out the inner tub, unscrewed springs from the bottom and removed; then removed the bearing with a little prying (had to raise the tub slightly and tap the center splined shaft to push out) and lifted out the outer tub. Outer tub had few rust spots about to penetrate, so sanded off rust, primed with etching auto primer and sprayed enamel topcoat to prevent further corrosion. Reassembled in the same order.

When done, there was still a loud noise on the spin cycle, so obtained a spin bearing and brake assembly (need to replace both most always). Tilted the machine on its back and removed the pulley, then put a special wrench on the brake assembly and broke loose (counterclockwise) with a 3 foot extension after placing a 2x4 section in the tub between wall and one of the bases for the spring arms (to keep the tub from turning). When the brake came off it was full of water and corroded from the leaking tub bearing previously replaced. Reassembled in reverse order and replaced two belts on the bottom for good measure. Works perfectly now and is very quiet.

In my estimation, the repair should have included both the tub bearing/seal and the spin bearing/brake assy from the outset. Could have used a chain visegrip wrench instead of special tool to remove the brake assy - whatever is available. The tool costs a lot and will never be used again.

Put blocks under the washer where the leveling leg was needed and screwed the part into the washer. Then it was just a matter of moving the washer into place and leveling. Pretty easy.

removed old pully, put new one on with hex driver, removed belts, put new belts on and finished.

** Your best bet is to use a digital camera to take pictures of the various stages as you take apart the dryer - especially the wiring. And, use masking tape to label all the wires.
** I removed the Blower Housing which made the process much easier.
** Find a friend with or buy the snap ring pliers
** Big Secret not mentioned anywhere - the Motor Support (diag. #20) can be removed ! Hence - the entire Motor assembly can be taken out to remove those irascible Motor Clips.
** For the Green ground wire going from the dryer frame to the motor, you need to take the screw from the old motor and use it to screw into a hole marked with a black "slash" on the new motor.
** After 3 days of WD 40 and an allen wrench, I could not remove the Motor Pully from the old motor, so I would buy one if I were you.
** Hardest Parts - Removing the Motor Clips, reattaching the idler spring!, having another person hold the drum while I installed the Belt and reattached the front drum frame thingy, and deciphering my wiring schematic and reassembly diagrams ! That is why a digital camera is so helpful.
** The process is really very easy if you use the suggestions above and read the others.
** Find the "Model Diagram" on the PartSelect website - an excellent resource !!
** A twenty+ year old Maytag - up and running again !! Many thanks to others who shared their story.

I removed the front panel of the dryer by removing the 2 screw that secure it at the bottom and pulling upward to disconnect the cover at the top. I then removed the two screws that hold the metal cover that secures the 2 elements in place. I disconnected the wire plugs from the 2 elements, removed the 2 elements and replaced them with the new parts making sure to place them in the same positions as before. I then replaced the housing cover and tightened the screws. Then I replaced the front cover of the dryer.

After replacing all the other fuses and sensors I finally replaced the Radiant Flame Sensor and it is working perfectly.

After replacing the other parts and the heat still not coming on I read somewhere that the Radiant Flame Sensor is a normal closed circuit and when I checked with a meter it was open. I would have saved a lot of time and money if I had read that earlier.

The trouble-shooting section on this website described the above problem and suggested that the proper course of action was to replace the water inlet valve, which I ordered and replaced. Replacement of this part was quick and easy.