LNC8766A71 Admiral Dryer - Instructions

The video for the Heat Kit replacement is excellent. However, i could not replace the fuse without removing the heating coil. It was the only way my hands could get the fuse bracket out/then in. I accidently inverted the heating coil when trying to replace it, and struggled for a minute or so. Be sure your HC coil is in the same position as when you removed it. You might want to include the heating coil removal as a standard part of the replacement video. He specifically mentioned NOT having to remove the coil. Otherwise the video and and the instructions are perfect. You need to make sure you clean out the tubing/vent prior to replacing the thermostat and fuse. Otherwise you are wasting you time. Perfect repair, easily done..luv it.

I first replaced the temperature sensor. That did not help and when doing investigation when thr drier was warm I found the vallve would open and close if I touched the coils

follow video and fix.

I lifted the top of the dryer. I unhooked the hangers from the door and took it off. I pulled the drum out, took the broken belt off, slid the new one around the outside middle of the drum, turning the rib side of the belt out,and ran the belt through the pulley attached to the bottom base of the dryer (tension pulley, right hand side), slid the drum back inside the dryer frame, reattached the door, closed and snapped the dryer lid and it worked great!!

Your customer service was great, but your video wasn't particularly helpful because of the extreme age of my dryer. For one thing, with these really old dryers, you don't have to slide the drum out at all; you just unscrew the front panel and slip the belt in that way. The printed diagram that came with the belt helped me figure how the belt slips through the pulley assembly, but the drawing could have been more clear. In spite of my bickering, I probably saved $50 fixing it myself.

Disconnect electric power, the top & cabinet are connected by 2 reusable locks about 4 inches from each front corner, use a thin flat putty knife or similar object, push inward on a lock while lifting gently on the front of the top piece, then let the top rest against the wall. ( a wire on each end of a safety switch for the dryer door may need disconnected) Remove a screw from each front corner of the cabinet, then pull upward on the loose front panel to access the drive motor, remove old belt. install new belt by lifting the front of the drum just high enough to allow the new belt, place groves of belt against the drum and around the motor pulley and belt tensioner, re-install cabinet front, (re-connect safety switch wires) return top and push down at cabinet locks.

Repair itself was not hard, Pop top, unscrew front panel and pull forward to get at the coils under the drum. --THIS IS THE KEY POINT i ENCOUNTERED: I tested the coils and the resistance was right according to the schematic. But still the flame would go out after while. --on a whim I pulled the front cover and tested the coils immediately after the flam wouldn't re-light.---When the coil got warm, it would open (no continuity). When it cooled down again the correct continuity would return. Replaced the coil and no more problem

It was really easy I watched your video on how to do it the video went step by step and was very helpful

Watch the video you sent me, and every thing fell into place

What a pain in the butt to route the belt thru the tensioner! There's room for only one hand in there. The guys who do this for a living must have some secret. My solution was to drill a 3/16 hole thru the side, make a j-hook from 8-32 threaded rod, use that and a wing nut to pre-load the tensioner, route the belt, then slowly back off the wing nut until the belt was tight. It works. . . .

Replacing the lint filter was, of course, the easy part. The rest of the time was spent removing the front of the dryer and cleaning out all the lint that had escaped through the old broken filter. I completely took apart the lint traps inside the front, vacuumed everything out, and replaced the ductwork to the outside that was almost completely blocked with lint. Please take the time to inspect your dryer, and do this if necessary! I feel we prevented a house fire by getting to this in time - and I will be more vigilant in the future.

Removed two screws from front panel and lifted front panel away, Turned it to the left so I could keep the door switch connected. The dryer would heat when it was first started, but then the burner would go off and would not come back on. I ran the dryer with the front panel off and could see the igniter glow and light the burner, but after the burner cycled off, the igniter would come back on but the gas would not come back on. I could tell it wasn't the thermostat because the igniter would come on, so I knew it must be the gas valve, and therefore probably the coils. The instructions on the website said that the coils were frequently intermittent, so that seemed like the problem. I tried checking out the coil resistance with an ohmmeter to try to confirm that, but couldn't really tell anything that way. I ordered the replacement coils Tuesday night, selecting the cheapest shipping; they shipped on Wednesday, and were delivered on Thursday! Amazingly fast! Removed two screws from the clip that holds the coils in place, unplugged the old coils, swapped in the new coils, screwed the retaining clip back on. All done. Before I replaced the front panel, I watched to see that it operated correctly. I could see the burner cycle off, then after a bit, the igniter glowed, and then the gas came back on and lit, just like it should. Problem solved. Put the front panel back on, and that's all there was to it. Well, I did vacuum out some of the dust inside the cabinet while I had the cover off. Just out of curiosity, I checked the resistance of the new coils before I installed them to compare with the old ones. Couldn't see much difference.

Pop off the top , Then one screw holds each side . slide belt around drum and then preload tensioner as per instructions . Simple!

took out the old, put in the new

Raised upper portion of dryer using putty knife on clips just above dryer door. removed 2 screws on inside corner above dryer door, then completely removed the front panel. Lifter out dryer barrel to expose the inner workings. Removed the 2 rollers at back of unit...(be sure to apply some med. weight grease on roller shafts... I used axle grease). Also, had to replace the blower wheel, original was broken in half. With 1/4" nut driver(if I remember correctly) remove the 6-7 screws holding the front cover on the fan blower assy. Using pliers remove the spring clip on front of blower wheel shaft. Upon installing new blower fan you might have to align the new wheel on shaft with the flat keyway then using a 1/2" socket hold it on the front of the blower wheel and lightly tap the wheel in place till seated at the back of the shaft. I use to assume that the majority of the noise I was hearing was coming from the busted dryer. I did have underlying suspicions that there was another source of noise from within my domicile. Once the dryer was re-assembled and 'purring' just like new my suspicions were confirmed. I was able to verify that the source of the 'other' noise was from my wife. I miss my old dryer!