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Broken door micro switch. (unit does not start heating)
Unplug the unit before servicing. Need phillips screwdriver. Open door. Use step ladder to access and remove 2 small screws from top of the room air diffuser at top of unit. Slide diffuser slightly to the left to align the diffuser's plastic tab on the left side to rotate toward you. (The wires for the front control panel are at the far left side of this difuser, but difuser is slotted for easy removal). Once the difuser is removed you will see 1 screw at the top that secures the pannel cover on the left side of the unit. Remove screw and slide this panel slightly up and out. This exposes the plastic frame that holds the upper and lower door switches. To locate the door switches and observe how they work, close and open the door and watch the door (bayonets) open and close the micro switches. Do the (red) buttons on top of the switches move up and down when the door bayonets push and release? If the buttons do not "pop" up when opened the switch is defective. The switch frame is secured with 2 screws. Remove screws and rotate the unit out for easy access to the micro switch(s). The internal (spring?) on my unit that is suposed to allow the red (visible) button on top of the switch to "pop" up when the door is opened was broken. Carefully pry the switch outward while being careful to lift the plastic holder-piece that holds the switch in place. Be careful, there is a small pin on the frame, so rotate the switch OUT toward you while lifting (carefully) the plastic holder-piece (you will see it on top of the switch). You can use an ohm meter to test the continuity of the switches. But if the buttons don't "pop" they are defective. Replace switch and reassemble.
The fan cover in top of the cooking area was burned.
The original cover was burned and actually caught on fire. Research informed me that food can splatter and stick to the cover. The particle will get hot enough to ignite the plastic cover. I ordered the cover and included the fan since it was so cheap, Replacement was super easy. Done in 10 minutes and made my wife happy. She was ready to buy a new microwave because she thought something was wrong with ours but food splatter was the cause. Parts were less than $10 + $6 shipping. Keep the inside of the microwave clean!!
Door sensor switch went bad. Microwave would not operate.
Watched a couple of repair videos on Youtube by searching for the model number. Found out what to do in order not to get shocked by the powerful capacitor. Ordered the two switches (To be sure, I could have ordered a third switch as suggested in the videos.) Bought a tamper-proof star bit to get the cover off. Followed the directions to replace the switches. - I broke the harness and had to use some super glue, but it's all good. I should have removed the harness instead of trying to get a switch out while it was still in place. It's all back together, and the wife is happy!!
-remove vent by removing 2 screws holding it -remove door by lifting and moving aside -replaced broken door -used original glass in new door - reassembled in reverse order
The major plastic frame was broken at the screw hole support. I was sent the wrong part and found out the part I needed was no longer made and would have to buy a new door for $150.
The wrong part was under $20. When I found out I had to replace the whole door for $150. I decided DYI was the way to go. I used JB weld and the door looks and works like a charm. Give plenty of time to cure all water needs to be cured out if exposed to microwaves. No problems so far.
TOOK OUT ALL SCREWS FRONT OVER DOOR AND AROUND FRONT FRAME, LIFTED FRONT FACE OFF, FIRST CKD FUSE, BUT FUSE HAS A WHITE GLASS SO DIDNT KNOW IF IT WAS GOOD OR BAD, NEXT THING I SAW WAS THE HIGH VOLTAGE CAPACITOR, BUT CKD YOUR PRICES ON THE PARTS AND THEY WERE TWO OF THE CHEAPEST TO REPLACE, IT WAS REALLY GUESS WORK ON MY PART, SEE I USED TO WORK ON OVERHEARD CRANES IN A FACTORY, I LEARNED WHEN THEY OUIT WORKING IT WAS USALLY EITHER A FUSE OR A CAPACITOR, SO MY GUESS WORK WAS IN MY FAVOR, AND MY MICROWAVE CAME TO LIFE, I THANK YOU FOR THE NICE EMPLOYEES YOU HAVE WORKING AT PART SELECT FOR THEIR HELP AND GREAT SERVICE, DARRELL INGLE , HOUSTON TEXAS
Removed some cosmetic panels. Removed the assembly with micro switches. Examined the faulty switch by checking the clicking action of switch. Two others were ok by this method. Replaced the switch with new one. Works fine so far. Thanks to web site and YouTube videos.
The Microwave was completely dead and wouldn't run, light up or anything.
I followed an old appliance repair forums post from 2008 that discussed this exact common issue with this LG model. It took me quite a while to find the info. Then I used the schematic diagrams on your website to find where the part was located inside the microwave. I removed the outer cover. I tested all components including the thermostat for continuity with a multimeter. I discovered there wasn't any continuity in the thermostat so ordered the part and replaced it. Everything works like a charm! Thanks for the great, fast service.
Followed owners manual instructions to the letter: removed two top screws, opened the unit door so I could slide out the old filter. We don’t cook much at all in the unit, mostly just heating coffee and reheating leftovers. BUT! The top grill was pretty greasy and needed hot soapy water to clean, including in the depths of the top area. The whole process, especially the company website for part ID and purchase, was slick!
WORTHLESS...I EMAILED YOU ON 2/7/22 AFTER RECEIVING THE DAMAGED FILTER DUE TO NOT SHIPPING IN A HARD OR SOMETHING IN THE ENVELOPE TO PROTECT THE FILTER FROM BEING BENT. I HAVE NOT HAD ANY RESPONSE FROM YOU FOR THE DAMAGED FILTER OR WHEN I CAN EXPECT ONE THAT I CAN USE. UNSATISIFACTORY SERVICE!
