LGV6634DQ1 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

Looked up on-line for tips, found computer animated video. It was easy as it looked, took longer to take dryer apart (not long). Other note on problem; neighbor who works on washer/dryers said that the motor was probably going. replaced belt anyway because I already purchased it before we spoken. Throwing caution to the wind!!

I watched the informative video you sent via e-mail with order conformation. Installation was flawless. Thanks and will be using your site again for any other small appliance repairs that may need my attention.

This repair took me longer because I was just giving it a try - I have no experience, although I tend to be "handy." I'm sure anyone with experience would rate this as "easy" and have taken only a short time. I had to watch the video several times to understand what to do - and the comments were helpful too. My washer is an OLD maytag, so I removed the front of the dash and pulled it forward to access the electronics. My switch had only 2 prongs, so I hooked up to the "lid closed" option on the new switch. It works perfectly now. Very pleased I gave it a try.

I watched the online video three times. This was extremely useful. I just did what it showed. I doubt I could have fixed it without the video. This has got to be the best feature of the internet. I didn't have the exact model number, but the belt fit. I was surprised at how close the tensioning wheel was to the motor. Perhaps the belt will stretch with age and use.

Un plug dryer . Take off dryer door . Remove front panel by pulling out. Remove 2 screws holding coil bracket . Remove electrical connectors ,remove 2 coils . Install 2 new coils same as old ones connect elect. Wires replace coil holding bkt. Unplug flame sensor . Remove 1 screw . Replace old flame sensor with new plugin elect. Connector replace in reverse wala ,,,alldone button up dryer plug in dryer . . Good to go.

We noticed the drum wasn't spinning, but the heat was turning on. About 3 years ago the heat was broken and it turned out that there was a little thermal fuse in there that needed swapped out, that was easy too fix too. Anyway, I looked up on youtube how to change out dryer belts on maytag units and it looked pretty straight forward. The model they showed was easier to access than my model, but I was able to still figure it out. Just pop off the top panel (they used a putty knife at the two clip points on the front, but I just yanked it up with a little force and it popped right up). Then unscrew the two little screws holding the front panel on, then pull off the front panel completely. This exposes the drum. The example on youtube showed easy front access to the belt assembly, but in my model, there was a stand for the drum as well as the drum motor in the way. So I just pulled the whole drum out the front most of the way, then I went behind the drum where I had exposed the pully/motor shaft assembly and then fed in the new belt into belt tension assembly that connects to the motor. While keeping it taught so the ribs of the belt would stay on the motor head (I had my wife hold it taught) I pushed the drum back toward the hanging belt and then worked the edges of the belt around the drum until it once again was completely around the drum. Then I slowly pushed the drum all the way back into place while continually working the belt back into place as I went. I then manually rolled the drum around a few times to ensure it was rolling correctly and that the belt was indeed in the right place. After a few good spins without it changing position, I reassembled the unit. It was very painless and took about 15-20 minutes in all. Works just fine again.

I replaced belt by myself. Took dryer apart,laid dryer on its back, put belt and pulley on. Rotated drum to make sure seal was in place. Cleaned out machine while I had it apart.

Followed the instructions and really quite easy to fix. I didn't know why dryer wouldn't turn on but went with the odds that the thermal fuse was the problem-- and it was. Once I got the part it was back together and running in less than 30 minutes!

I am a licensed electrician I found the bad part and I ordered it and when it came in I replaced it.

This is a long, sad story, but I'll cut to the chase. I was told by few appliance repair guys that my problem was most likely due to the motor being bad. I had checked the thermal fuse, the door switch, and the power switch, and all were good so that made sense. I then saw a video which made it seem fairly straight forward to remove the old motor and replace it. So I ordered the motor from Part Select. Turns out it's impossible to remove the motor without also removing (and replacing) the blower. The video never mentions that. Also FYI, I found out that my dryer switch WAS broken, and nothing was wrong with the motor, so I spent $250 on a repair that should have cost %40. Oh well ...

It snapped right in. Works perfect.

I watched the You Tube video on this site. The only issue is there is a plastic fitting that I seriously damaged trying to remove the motor from the blower. You have to hold the plastic fiting stationary while turning the nut on the other end of the motor. If you try to rotate the plastic fitting you'll destroy it as I did. I got it loose by squeezing the plastic fitting with a large pair of channel lock pliers and then rotating the nut.

I was able to take apart the dryer myself and get old belt out, then my son helped me remove the drum and put new belt on. Well worth fixing; it works great again and the part with shipping and handling was only $17.00! better then price of new dryer!!!Thanks, Mary ( Cincinnati)

Initial diagnoses suspected a faulty igniter. After deterininig that there was not power to the igniter I unplugged the dryer and systematically tested the continuity of each of the temperature limit swithches which all checked OK. The last item in the circuit is the thermal fuse which proved to be faulty. To confirm that this was the only problem I monentarily by passed the fuse to verify that the burner came on. To do all this I had to remove the fron panel and take out the drum. Actually the thermal fuse is located behind th back cover and is very easy to replace and probably should have been my fist go to suspect. Note the likely cause of the thermal fuse failure is a plugged up lint filter or exhaust duct which should be checked before installing a new fuse.

looked at schematic diagram, compared to unit finally used a multimeter to check fuse.. replaced fuse, assembled dryer and turned on to check operation. OK.