LGH1642DS0 Electrolux Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

Our washer is in a very tight spot, and we use the top for storage, so it was a job moving everything and pulling the washer away from the wall. Unplugged, then took the 2 screws off the back, dropped one and retreived it with masking tape on a dowel. Got the top to slide back, then took the screws off the latch. Crammed my arm down inside (very tight) and grabbed the latch, pulling it out the top. Labeled both sides of the connections with colored masking tape (in case we need to replace this part again, but I hope not). Got everything back together, then put the top back on, dropping the same scew behind, retreived it,plugged the power in and it works!!

The repair was extremely easy. I just removed the broken knob by pulling it off. I lined up the "D" shaft with the knob and pushed. I was done and the dryer now works.

Removed Old Part and put on new ones just replaced all and put on new kit so would have all new parts.

I put a new lint filter,that was the problem,just open the dyer door,remove the old filter and put the new one.Fit perfect!!

Remove the seal ring underneath the front gasket.it's solid wire ring held together with wire spring.I used a screw driver to stretch wire ring from gasket.pulled gasket back from washer opening, near striker. removed two screws on striker lock assembly.pulled it out.removed all three wire attached to assembly.plugged in new assembly.replaced screws. reattached gasket and ring. done.

I watched the videos on this excellent website first. Then the repair was a breeze.

Had a loud noise coming from 10 yr old Kenmore stackable washer & dryer set. Pulled apart and found the dryer drum bearing shot. Ordered the rear drum bearing kit that included the male piece that attaches to the drum (Sears wanted 40.00 for just this part).The kit along with a new belt I installed while I was in there was only 37.00 including shipping. Got parts in 2 days from Chicago to Atlanta! Took about an hour to do the job Video was great. Dryer is very quiet now. However I should have replaced the heater coils while I was in there (40.00) Its the only thing left to go bad at this point. Oh well if it does I will order from Parts Select again and sink another hour into it.. Sure beats a 2-3 hundred dollar service call!!

Removed front access panel to get to shock absorbers. Removed mounting pins with hammer & pliers. Replaced both with dual-stage shocks provided in kit (Of course, piston side down). Getting to right-side shock upper mount was the only tricky part of removal & replacement. Otherwise, not too bad. This is a repair most anyone can do. Shock absorber kit solved vibration issues.

Removed the front of dryer and cleaned lint and sand removed tub replaced the belt and bearing and she was ready to go Replaced the belt as a precaution since the unit was apart. My skills as a HVAC tech was helpful in making the repair. Parts arrived just as stated. Regular postage...in a timely manner

It took longer to remove and then replace the back of the washer than to replace the water inlet valve. The video made it look easy and it was!. For the next perso: remember that if the water valve springs a leak and the washer has water in it, turn the dial to spin and the water will leave the drum. No need to siphon out the water.

installed the back bearing with the ball bearing and dropped in the rear drum bearing and tried to install the drum to the rear drum bearing, but we could not find the screw holes to attach the drum, we tried and tried and finally I came up with the idea to take the drum out and screw the drum bearing while we had it ouside and that worked out beautifu lyl and all we had to do was reinstall the drum and all we had to do was lift it up just a little and drop it into the retainer rear retainer' and then all we had to do was install the tension roller which we had a little trouble but we finally figured it out and now it works just fine, it would a lot if there was a diasgram included on how to re-install the tensioner

I removed the front panel used a screwdriver to press the tabs on the plastic retainer pins then used a hammer to gently tap each of the plastic mounting pins for the shock absorbers. The left side was very easy but the right side was more difficult due to 2 things. 1. I had to use pliers to remove the hose to gain access to the upper pin. 2. When I replaced the shock absorber the bottom pin had no room to hammer the plastic retaining pin due to a large plastic box directly behind the shock absorber which was not mentioned In the YouTube Partselect tutorial. My quick solution was to replace the plastic retaining pin backwards.its working great with no problems whatsoever .Thank you Partsselect!

Remove lower front panel. Left shock is easier than right. Push in on the bump on the tip of white pin. Tap out to rear and same with upper. Assure you follow orientation instuctions for new shock absorbers. Now the hard side. Push in the bump on the lower white pin tip and drive back and possibably angle up slightly to get end of shock out. It is up against the side of an aluminum box of some sort. To remove the top pin you need to use a pliers to squeeze hose clamp and separate black tubing from white plastic. Move out of the way to get at pin. Again push bump and drive out pin. Replace new shock bottom first. I tapped the angle down first to start front of pin then, I used a small pry bar and piece of wood to press the pin back into position from the rear against the aluminum box. Now the top. A short hammer is helpful to tap pin in from rear. Be very carefull putting the hoses back together and move the clamp into position. Make sure this is correct. Test washer. Replace front panel. See, you didn't need a new washer yet. Use some of the savings to treat yourself. Watch the video but realize he skips the hard parts.

Removed the panel between the dryer and washer. The gas valve was right in front. The wires were in a plug and easy to remove from old part. The solinoid held in place by a clamp with two screws.