KUDU03STSS0 KitchenAid Dishwasher - Instructions

First remove the two screws holding the kick plate at the bottom. Next I pried off the 2 plastic bulb access caps on the sides in front and removed the screws holding the machine between the cabinets.
I pulled out the washer as far as I could without having to shut off the water and remove the water line or the power supply. I pulled out the broken link assembly consisting of a nylon cord with plastic end pieces that connected on one end to the tension spring and on the other to the cantilever mechanism on the door.
The difficult task was getting the long spring to hook onto its position at the back of the machine when I could only pull the machine out several inches as it was held by the shortness of the water and power lines. I used the tang end of a long file shoved inside one end of the spring as a holder while I moved the spring back into position and turned it until it caught hold and snapped into place. Once that was done I was able to pull the cord (which had one end attached to the spring before I had positioned it) using a pair of pliers and a great deal of effort enough to hook the plastic end over the hooked part attached to the door. I pushed it back and replaced the side screws and the kick plate.

The first check was for any circuit breakers that tripped. Upon finding the circuit breakers intact, I removed the front panel from the dishwasher and verified power was up to the panel, which is was. I removed the kick panel and located documentation for schematics and troubleshooting. This led me to the bi-metal switch (non-resettable). After turning off the power, I checked the continuity across the switch and found it was open. Then I provided a short across the switch and turned the power on to verify panel was working properly, which is was. This verified the bi-metal (thermal switch) was the issue. I then ordered the switch and installed it per the instructions. While looking for the switch, I did run across another post suggesting the additional wire leads with the kit should be included since they act as a heat sink. With the new switch installed along with the additional wire leads, the dishwasher is working fine.

Just replaced the damaged cap.

Removed the old seal, cleaned the groove, followed directions, placed adhesive per directions, placed new seal in groove per directions, closed door for 24 hours, job was completed. I was concerned that the new seal did not look like the original seal, but the new seal actually was better then the original seal.

1.] I ordered the wrong part and I altered the contacts to make it work, it did'nt. 2.] Found out the right part # and could'nt hook it up cause I cut off the connection to adapt the first part. 3.] So I had to order an entire wire harness to get a small selenoid connecter. I made the connection and it still did'nt work. 4.] Ordered a control panel and when it came it was the wrong one. 5.] The company sent a new right control panel and BINGO! 6.] Say good night Gracie.

As per send video

watched the video on their site and fixed it lickety split.

I replaced the silverware tray in less than a minute. That seemed to please my wife. I told her that this was her Valentine's present. That did not seem to please her. One positive and one negative respone--- not too bad. However, it looks like I will need to find a more pleasing Valentine's present. I tried. Thanks for the prompt and accurate replacement part.

My husband took apart the bottom assembly of the dishwasher and found lots of "stuff" clogging the screen mesh. When he removed it, he noticed that the blades were not rotating when the back was turned. So, I got online and found Partselect.com where they had diagrams showing all the parts and what they were called by just putting in the model number. I immediately saw the part we needed and it was under $20! I ordered it and it came in rather quickly. My husband installed it and we are happily using the dishwasher again. I have already recommended this website to several people.

Slid the dishwasher out, removed the old hinge and replaced it with the upgraded kit. Appliance repairman wanted $168.00 to do the job and I repaired it for $30.00. Thanks for the great service

Undo all of the screws on dishwaser. Disconnent two wires that are attatched to the latch. Squeeze latch at both corners and whole piece pops out. Put in the new piece by connecting two wires and popping back into pla e on the door of the diswasher. So very simple!!

I look at the video you put up to help. The part was replace and my dish washer works really well now. I will use this site again and well tell my friends also. Thank You for all your help . Mark

Actually your video lays it out very well. Went exactly as it shows and was very easy. I did not have to pull it out to the point I had to disconnect any water or electrical connections. Worked great! Replaced both sides as the new rollers turn and the old ones did not causing a horrible squeak when the door was opened or closed. Now, no noise at all.

1)remove 6 torx [T15] screws holding dishwasher front panel 2)use screwdriver blade to release electrical connector plug 3)remove 8 hex-bolts [1/4"] holding dispenser retainer plate 4)while holding-up flexible plastic covering dispenser unit 5)use screwdriver blade to "push-up" metal retaining tabs to 6)release soap dispenser unit, remove old & replace with new 7)re-install dispenser retainer plate, install 8 hex-bolts 8)make sure to tighten bolts equally to prevent misalignment 9)carefully snap electrical connector plug in-place 10)finally -> replace front panel & tighten 6 torx screws 11)hardest part of project was making up my mind to start

I'm a 74 yr old women and have always tried to do my own repairs. With the web it was so easy to locate the problem and order the part. The online repair demo video was so easy to follow. Really proud of myself. "I still got it".