KUDS01FLSS2 KitchenAid Dishwasher - Instructions

Remove power to the machine. My particular installation did not require physically removing water and drain lines. Remove the dishwasher from the cavity. Put a towel or two down on the floor. Lay the washer on its face on the towels and this orients the motor in the up position on the bottom of the washer. CAREFULLY unplug the motor wiring harness but if possible, leave the heating element connection in place as spade connectors tend to lose their grip with multiple engagements. Remove the single bolt located between the motor and stainless bottom of the cavity that locks the motor in place. Leave it in the cardboard shield, that really helps in reinstalling it. CCW rotation of the motor disengages it from its housing. Work the motor straight up and out of the housing. This was the most difficult part of the entire process due to the metal housing not quite clearing the plastic pump housing where they mate, but its do-able. Nothing should have to be forced. Now you have the motor in hand. Be very attentive how and what order you disassemble. Remove the back of the motor housing to block the armature to remove the impeller. DO NOT NICK THE FIELD WIRING IN THE MOTOR. I believe the threads were left hand but I don't remember the rotation. They do tighten in the direction of the motor rotation though. Carefully pry the seal out of the pump housing with many short lifts as to not mar the housing itself. Added a little dishwashing detergent on the outside of the new seal and carefully pushed it into place with the end of my screwdriver. Don't cut yourself on the metal insert in the center of the seal.Reassemble the impeller to the shaft WITH the spacer that comes with the new impeller kit. Make sure the impeller is tightened down completely to the end of the threads to insure proper clearances when reassembled. Don't force or over tighten. You'll feel a positive stop. Reassemble the motor to the housing Lubricate the housing o ring seal on the outside with a VERY small amount of dishwashing liquid lest you create a suds factory on startup. Replace the holding bolt on the pump housing. Reconnect the motor leads and heater element if removed. Stand the washer back up. There will probably be water around the door area from the pump when the machine is returned to the upright position. Reconnect lines and check under the pump housing for leaks while in operation being careful not to get into moving parts or electrical connections. Good luck.

Followed video on your site rapair was the same as the video

The video supplied showed me how to take the outer door off but in my case the door would not come loose. Since I did not know if there were other screws holding it I even removed the screws holding the control panel. The outer door still would not budge. After a long time of prying and testing I heard the unmistakable sound of something coming unstuck as I applied pressure to pull the outer door away from the inner door. With a little coaxing and very careful pulling the outer door came loose. The outer door had Styrofoam insulation in several places and under the intense heat of years of dying cycles, had melted and become stuck to the inner door parts. The new part went in easily but I did not tighten the screws enough and my first test some water seeped around the new unit and came out inside the door. I retightened the screws and all is well now.

The most direct way to do this job is to completely pull out the dishwasher so you can get to all the parts involved. However, I didn't want to break and make all 3 connections. Having installed it using braided hose for the water line, I had enough give to pull the unit out about halfway. This exposed the pulleys and door hook, but the spring was still in the back (and had actually fallen off the frame and was now lying behind the frame on the floor. So a little back and forth and I was able to retrieve it. I hooked the link on the end and blindly and miraculously hooked the spring into it's hole on the frame. Since I had no room to work with the door open, I had to keep it closed which meant the spring was under full tension. This is where the drum stick came in. I pulled the spring forward with a pliers and shoved the drumstick in the loop on the spring and held the stick against the baseboard while I threaded the string around the pulleys and onto the door hook. I guess I could have tried a long screwdriver, but the drumstick was handy and the bulbous tip prevented the spring from sliding off

Pulled the machine out and repaired it. Perfect.

The best way to do the repair is watch the video. Because the replacement part was newer than the original it was configured a bit different. The video CLEARLY explained that so it eliminated any angst.

This was the first time I did business with PartSelect but I guarantee you it won’t be the last.
1. They tell you what part to purchase
2. They ship it to you fast
3. The VIDEO gives you clear step by step instruction

First, I viewed the video on the Partsselect website. I pulled the dishwasher from under the counter. When installing it, I had used a six-foot-long braided supply hose, so that didn't need to be disconnected. The drain hose was disconnected at the sink drain connection. Only the wiring connection had to be undone under the dishwasher, so ensure the power's off to the dishwasher. Changing the links was a matter of removing one screw on each side, pivoting the pulley assembly forward, removing it, reversing that procedure to install the new one, and hooking the link at both ends. The door works perfectly and silently now.

According to your instructions, there was no way to push up on the motor and replace the sump gasket at the same time , that would take two people. so after removing the clips that held the motor I raised up the dishwasher on blocks and then put a block of wood under the motor , then removed the blocks which by lowering the unit the motor went up into the bowl and then I was able to replace the gasket. Replacing the door balance kit was easy once I pulled the unit out from under the counter top.

Unscrew machine fro counter top, pull it out of cabinetry, remove old pulley & bollard blocks, install new ones, hook new string to spring, run through pulleys. Then, the only trick: I used one of the old broken cords to extend the spring so i had slack in the new line so it could be hooked in place. Hook the broken cord on the spring after connecting the new cord, then pull on it with one hand while positioning the new cord with the other. A major unexpected bonus of doing this repair was that that the design of the pulley block had been improved so now each block uses two pulleys instead of a pulley and a bollard. This makes opening and closing the door nearly silent, where as before there was some friction where the string rubbed over the bollard and that set up a resonance in the spring that was quite loud.

These guys were GREAT!!! Called and the individual immediately was able to identify the part number and indicated they had the kit in stock. The parts were shipped that day and arrived three days later. Didn't take long to put the new arm on and was up and running. I'll definitely use them in the future.

Removed upper rack and installed new arm assembly

I removed the front wood door panel and then removed the control panel so that I could see the control circuit board. I originally thought the control panel pads where the problem since they were worn so I replaced that by doing the above and then removing the circuit boards and re-installing them into the new control panel. Turns out that did not fix the problem. The circuit board ribbon cable was burnt at two areas so I ordered a new cable along with a new circuit board just in case. BTW the circuit board is located under the control panel and has the buttons that are engaged when one presses the pads on the control panel. Once I received the parts I removed the old ribbon cable and installed the new one, a very easy process. I checked the circuit board and all the buttons worked ao I just re-installed everything back in place. Works like a charm.. I saved myself over $250.00.

Took off front door panel, unscrewed old unit. Installed new unit. Hooked up wires. Replaced front door panel. Reinstalling the front door panel was the most time consuming. It has to slide in a certain way. Also, I thought the dispenser wasn't sitting properly, so I took the whole thing apart again, but it is supposed to sit at a slight angle. I basically did the job twice in a half hour.

Well after trouble shooting several components , the fill valve, the check valve , the pump motor all it turned out to be is the supply line to the dishwasher. I had installed one of those lines with an anti flood check valve in the line. Thinking it was a smart idea so if I were not home it would keep from flooding my basement etc. even when you remove the line and run it into a bucket you still get flow. But unknown to myself a majority of your appliances do not work well with these lines because when the solenoid opens it causes a surge and the check valve tries to restrict the flow. After soapy of these surges the valve sticks . When I replaced the line with a standard supply line it solved the problem. So for about $15.00 you could save yourself a lot of headaches and money by replacing that first. I'm not saying it will be the solution but start there first even if your getting water flow through that line. By the way the manufacturer of those lines at least the one I bought less than 5 montages ago do not mention that on their package and by the time you come to that conclusion you may have spent a lot of money trying to fix your machine. I had three techs that couldn't figure it out. Also the machine I have is a kitchen aid but its a common problem on a lot of brands including washing machines for clothes.

checked for electricity incoming and is fine, followed instructions and video perfectly. negative results, ordered brain module