KUDP01FLSS3 KitchenAid Dishwasher - Instructions

The part was easy to install. But , you might have to unhook electrical, water, and drain. That is the time problem, part install is easy. All I had was a socket set, 1/4, drive fits. But a nutdriver would have been easier. WATCH the install video, great info!!!!!

Watched the video but my husband did not...He removed all screws from the door, including the control panel which he should not have unscrewed. The outside door panel was difficult to separate from the inner panel . The foam insert was stuck to it. Once it came apart, the dispenser had to be unscrewed (easy), disconnected and replaced.

Remove power to the machine. My particular installation did not require physically removing water and drain lines. Remove the dishwasher from the cavity. Put a towel or two down on the floor. Lay the washer on its face on the towels and this orients the motor in the up position on the bottom of the washer. CAREFULLY unplug the motor wiring harness but if possible, leave the heating element connection in place as spade connectors tend to lose their grip with multiple engagements. Remove the single bolt located between the motor and stainless bottom of the cavity that locks the motor in place. Leave it in the cardboard shield, that really helps in reinstalling it. CCW rotation of the motor disengages it from its housing. Work the motor straight up and out of the housing. This was the most difficult part of the entire process due to the metal housing not quite clearing the plastic pump housing where they mate, but its do-able. Nothing should have to be forced. Now you have the motor in hand. Be very attentive how and what order you disassemble. Remove the back of the motor housing to block the armature to remove the impeller. DO NOT NICK THE FIELD WIRING IN THE MOTOR. I believe the threads were left hand but I don't remember the rotation. They do tighten in the direction of the motor rotation though. Carefully pry the seal out of the pump housing with many short lifts as to not mar the housing itself. Added a little dishwashing detergent on the outside of the new seal and carefully pushed it into place with the end of my screwdriver. Don't cut yourself on the metal insert in the center of the seal.Reassemble the impeller to the shaft WITH the spacer that comes with the new impeller kit. Make sure the impeller is tightened down completely to the end of the threads to insure proper clearances when reassembled. Don't force or over tighten. You'll feel a positive stop. Reassemble the motor to the housing Lubricate the housing o ring seal on the outside with a VERY small amount of dishwashing liquid lest you create a suds factory on startup. Replace the holding bolt on the pump housing. Reconnect the motor leads and heater element if removed. Stand the washer back up. There will probably be water around the door area from the pump when the machine is returned to the upright position. Reconnect lines and check under the pump housing for leaks while in operation being careful not to get into moving parts or electrical connections. Good luck.

Followed video on your site rapair was the same as the video

The video supplied showed me how to take the outer door off but in my case the door would not come loose. Since I did not know if there were other screws holding it I even removed the screws holding the control panel. The outer door still would not budge. After a long time of prying and testing I heard the unmistakable sound of something coming unstuck as I applied pressure to pull the outer door away from the inner door. With a little coaxing and very careful pulling the outer door came loose. The outer door had Styrofoam insulation in several places and under the intense heat of years of dying cycles, had melted and become stuck to the inner door parts. The new part went in easily but I did not tighten the screws enough and my first test some water seeped around the new unit and came out inside the door. I retightened the screws and all is well now.

The most direct way to do this job is to completely pull out the dishwasher so you can get to all the parts involved. However, I didn't want to break and make all 3 connections. Having installed it using braided hose for the water line, I had enough give to pull the unit out about halfway. This exposed the pulleys and door hook, but the spring was still in the back (and had actually fallen off the frame and was now lying behind the frame on the floor. So a little back and forth and I was able to retrieve it. I hooked the link on the end and blindly and miraculously hooked the spring into it's hole on the frame. Since I had no room to work with the door open, I had to keep it closed which meant the spring was under full tension. This is where the drum stick came in. I pulled the spring forward with a pliers and shoved the drumstick in the loop on the spring and held the stick against the baseboard while I threaded the string around the pulleys and onto the door hook. I guess I could have tried a long screwdriver, but the drumstick was handy and the bulbous tip prevented the spring from sliding off

Due to the posts on this site, I took the advise of replacing the chopper assy. Old chopper did not look bad and seemed to function. Apparently I was wrong. After new chopper was installed, dishwasher worked fine.

1. Removed front panel. 2. Backed out retaining screws at top. 3. Backed up leveling feet. 4. Pulled out dishwasher but seemed tight so stopped not wanting to break electrical or water line. Made very short space in which to work. Insulation batting was binding at top between DW and counter opening so tended to bunch up. 5. Spring at rear had flown off, so had to reattach while not being able to see. 6. Spring and new line were very tight so grabbed line with channel pliers just ahead of spring to get enough slack to get line over guide wheel. 7. Moved DW back into place and reattached with screws. 8. Had to play with leveling feet to get gap the same on each side of DW and cabinet opening. 9. Reattached lower front panel. 10. It has worked great.

Remove blown high limit therm.and replace with the new high limit

Looked at the video - it was great. But I also checked the comments section. I removed the upper rack, unclipped the upper water feed and pulled it down about 2 inches. I placed a large towel over the lower washer and drain - because I wanted to be able to catch the rivet if I dropped it. I placed the rivet in place and snapped the upper arm in place. Re-secured the upper water feed at the clip, put back the upper rack, and set the rack stops back in. Took about 4 minutes.

Your web site had a repair video that I watched and it showed me how to replace the broken part which was very helpful. Cleaned the lower sump unit and checked other parts for wear.Dishwasher had"nt been cleaned in a while.Part was a lot cheaper then some of the appliance parts store,ordered it on Saturday and received it on Tuesday.