KUDE60FVBL2 KitchenAid Dishwasher - Instructions

Didn't have to remove any screws, etc. Just had to pull the old gasket out of a grove in the top and sides of the frame, clean up the particles caused by the deterioration of the old gasket, and install the new gasket. Have to be careful to start at the top center of the frame exactly in the midpoint of the gasket and carefully push the gasket into the grove with your hands. Try not to stretch the gasket. There will be about 2 inches of extra gasket laying on the bottom on each side of the dishwasher, and that is OK.

1. Put a towel over the bottom of the machine. (In case you drop the screw... duh!)

2. Remove the top screw.

3. Replace the snap pin (pointy end DOWN.)

4. Snap the spinner in place.

5. Replace the screw. (Or go to the hardware store to replace the screw you dropped into the bottom of the dishwasher. Dashitall!)

Pulled the dishwasher out from the counter, on the lower right hand side, about mid way back there is a bundle of all yellow wires, follow that to the sensor which mounts into the bottom of the wash tub. The sensor is easily removed by grasping it by hand and turn it about a half turn (can't remember which direction). It then just pulls out. Disconnect the wire bundle by pushing on the retaining clip and the install is the reverse.

The leak was dripping from the diverter motor. After removing dishwasher the diverter motor was found to be corroded. The shaft grommet looked good. A new diverter motor was installed and dishwasher connected. After running it awhile the leak reappeared. It seemed the only possible thing left was the shaft grommet. Of course the grommet comes as part of the belly assembly. After searching for a better and cheaper solution I ordered a Whirlpool WPW10195677 grommet and it solved the leak.

After unscrewing the dishwasher, I pulled out the washer, I saw that the springs were attached just by strings that were broken... I just used the strings from an old lanyard, retied everything, and did not need the springs! works well!

Very easy to install the new B Metal Fuse. Removed torx head screws holding the outer door panel on the dish washer. Removed the fuse and two wires connected to the fuse. Inserted the new fuse in the holder and plugged the two wire connectors back
on. Installed the outer door panel back on, turned the breaker back and the machine powered back up. Very easy install and saved a service call. Total repair cost $24

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

open dishwasher door, use torx socket and ratchet to remove 6 screws. Pull down wash options face, find the bi-metal fuse. Used the directions in the package to replace. popped old fuse out of electrical board, Cut 2 wires, stripped said wires, attached stripped wires in housing on new part, tightened the 2 screws where new wires attach, popped new fuse in electrical board. Reattached face. Very simple and easy to do. Did not fix the problem. Had to get the electrical board that the bi-metal fuse is snapped into. Very easy for someone that has worked on vehicles or electrical things before. If no experience, then I would say it is still easy as long as you follow the directions taht comes with the part. It has pictures as well.

Popped out old wheel housing. Popped in replacement with a little help from a flathead screwdriver. Easy.

To replace the soap dispenser you need to take off the front of the door, which requires removing about 12 torx screws - of 2 different lenghths (so keep track). Then the soap dispenser is held in place with 6 very small 4mm hex screws (why they used these instead of normal phillips??). Both my hex sets stopped at 5mm, so I had to go get one. Tool has to be narrow (not one that is flared) because the clearance between the screws and the unit is very tight. There is one small two-wire connector with a press-in connector that at first looked hard to pry off, but just grab it with channel-lock and it will just come off. Remember which way the wires are facing (ie. up or down). Be sure to note how the vinyl flap (that covers the back of the dispenser) attaches, then pull out the old one. Once the new one is in, the hardest part is putting the door cover back on. I'd advise having an extra set of hands. Made it much easier.

I shut off the power to the dishwasher, then I removed the front panel under the door. On the right side just behind the electrical box there are two wires going up to the hi-limit thermostat, (you may need a small mirror to see it), remove one screw that is holding the thermostat bracket, unplug the wires from the old thermostat and install new one. Screw bracket and thermostat back to the underside of the dishwasher, reinstall the front panel, turn on the power, done.

Pulled dishwasher out from under counter. Relaced cord with plastic hook attaching spring to door. Very easy.

Very impressed with Partselect.com. Full schematic of dishwasher made it easy to select part.

Delivered in 1 day. Fantastic. Highly recommend

1. Removed six screws securing outer panel to dishwasher door.
2. Removed outer panel which exposed back of dispenser.
3. Remover six screws holding dispenser.
4. Removed dispenser.
5. Installed new dispenser.
6. Replaced six screws.
7. Reattached electrical connection to dispenser relay.
8. Reinstalled outer panel with six screws.

First I unplugged the dishwasher.Then I removed 6 Torx screws, popped off cover, cut wires to old fuse, stripped wire, placed wires in new part, tightened screws, reassembled in reverse order, plugged unit back in and tested. WOO HOO!

I saved over $150.00 by doing it myself instead of having a repairman come out! That's 4 free fishing trips!

Lifted out old basket, discarded, and set new basket in place. :-) Rocket science? NOT.