KUDC20CVBL5 KitchenAid Dishwasher - Instructions

To empty the water in the dishwater basin, I pushed the cancel button and closed the door. I then turned the electrical breaker to the off position that supplies electricity to the dishwasher. I confirmed the power was off by attempting to start the dishwaser. I removed the metal plate between the dishwater door and the floor by removing the two screws. I removed the two screws that connect the top of the dishwasher to the underside of the countertop. I shut the water valve that supplies hot water to the dishwasher (mine was located under the sink). I disconnected the drain hose (plastic) by using pliers to loosen the clamp the holds the hose on the outlet of the drain pump (drain pump is much smaller than the pump that needed replacement). A towell is handy to soak up the water that comes out the hoses. I loosened the nut on the water supply hose (this was difficult because of lack of room)using a wrench and pliers. I opened the door on the metal box that houses the wire nuts for the electrical connection to dishwater, and I removed the wire nuts and the screw for the ground wire. Once the white, black, and gound wires were disconnected, I could pull the dishwater out. I also had to pull the drain hose out from the clips on the side of the washer to pull the dishwasher out into the middle of the kitchen floor. I flipped the dishwasher on its back. I removed the single bolt that held the broken pump motor to the dishwasher, and then the motor twisted counterclockwise and I pulled it out. The pump shaft would not turn freely with my pliers, so I knew the motor was broken. I removed the pump end (impeller) from the dishwasher by tapping it with my screwdriver. The impeller end came out along with a metal screen. The metal screen was 50% plugged, so I cleaned it and put it back in place. I wet the gasket on the new pump motor and slid it back in place while rotating clockwise and locking it in place with the tabs. I replaced the bolt that holds the motor in place and reversed the repair procedure to re-install the dishwasher. Be sure to run the dishwasher and look for any leaks. The last step is to replace the metal plate between the floor and door. While I had the dishwasher pulled out, I discovered another problem with the pulleys and strings that prevent the heavy door from flopping down, but I won't include this repair. The pump and motor must have been failing for some time because the dishwasher is much quieter now and the dishwasher is much faster. I am sure the plugged screen didn't help either.

I shut off the power to the dishwasher, then I removed the front panel under the door. On the right side just behind the electrical box there are two wires going up to the hi-limit thermostat, (you may need a small mirror to see it), remove one screw that is holding the thermostat bracket, unplug the wires from the old thermostat and install new one. Screw bracket and thermostat back to the underside of the dishwasher, reinstall the front panel, turn on the power, done.

To replace the soap dispenser you need to take off the front of the door, which requires removing about 12 torx screws - of 2 different lenghths (so keep track). Then the soap dispenser is held in place with 6 very small 4mm hex screws (why they used these instead of normal phillips??). Both my hex sets stopped at 5mm, so I had to go get one. Tool has to be narrow (not one that is flared) because the clearance between the screws and the unit is very tight. There is one small two-wire connector with a press-in connector that at first looked hard to pry off, but just grab it with channel-lock and it will just come off. Remember which way the wires are facing (ie. up or down). Be sure to note how the vinyl flap (that covers the back of the dispenser) attaches, then pull out the old one. Once the new one is in, the hardest part is putting the door cover back on. I'd advise having an extra set of hands. Made it much easier.

Pulled dishwasher out from under counter. Relaced cord with plastic hook attaching spring to door. Very easy.

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removed both upper and lower racks. removed lower spray arm(left hand thread) removed "water delivry tube and upper spray arm. removed torx screws on pump cover. removed inner chopper cover. Chopper assy had come apart and was full of food crud. cleaned out and installed new chopper assy. kind of tricky don't force it. reassembled. tested OK.could tell sound of more forceful water pressure

First I unplugged the dishwasher.Then I removed 6 Torx screws, popped off cover, cut wires to old fuse, stripped wire, placed wires in new part, tightened screws, reassembled in reverse order, plugged unit back in and tested. WOO HOO!

I saved over $150.00 by doing it myself instead of having a repairman come out! That's 4 free fishing trips!

1. Removed six screws securing outer panel to dishwasher door.
2. Removed outer panel which exposed back of dispenser.
3. Remover six screws holding dispenser.
4. Removed dispenser.
5. Installed new dispenser.
6. Replaced six screws.
7. Reattached electrical connection to dispenser relay.
8. Reinstalled outer panel with six screws.

I disasembled the inner door and replaced the door switches with new ones.

I removed inner face of door, cut wires leading to door switches, and then installed the new door switches and wire harness.

Turned off water and disconnected line, then disconnected drain, turned off power and slid dishwasher out and turned turned upside down and removed hold down bolt ( it is a 3/8 head bolt) removed wire from motor and twisted motor assembly approximately 1/4 turn counter clock wise and removed old motor and seal assembly reinstalled new motor with new seal and rewired. Turned washer back upright and removed filter assembly and lower jet arm, removed cover for food disposal and reinstalled disposal blade back on pump drive reinstalled cover and filter assembly and jet arm. Slid unit back in place and anchored down to cabinet and turned water and power back on ran washer through a short cycle to clean any soap build up that was left inside and that was it, it all works just like new.

After I took apart the inside of the door, removing 12 star screws, I was able to see the inside of the automatic soap dispenser device. Since I now had the new device to look at, I was able to replace the latch pin back in the existing device and it worked!

I now have a replacement if the device actually breaks in the future and looking at the small plastic pieces, it will probably happen sooner or later.

Removed the Bi-Metal fuse and ordered a new one and recerved it two days after ordering. Replaced it and it worked.

I turned off the circuit. I removed the interior side of the door and then the plastic covering over the electrical wires and switches (I counterbalanced the door with a couple of half gallon juice containers). I removed the wires attached to the switch on the door handle and the door handle itself. The handle and switch parts disassembled and I replaced the switches (part of kit). I cut off the singed wire and the other three beyond the damaged portion and stripped the wires and connected the extensions (part of kit). I attached the new wires to the switches and closed up the interior door. Lastly, I turned the circuit breaker back on. All was well!

I had a repair guide for my dishwasher which helped. First I removed the water distribution system inside the dishwasher and then removed the door panel. Next I removed the front bottom access panel. I placed a pan under the pump and hoses to catch water when I removed the outlet hose. Very important here! One must remove the pressure switch from the outlet port or else you can't get the pump clear of the washer tub. Next I removed the drain pump by releasing the catch and turning the pump counter clockwise. Now for one of the hard steps. I had to remove three pins which hold the pump assy to the wash tub. Two of them are out of sight so you have to weave you hand past all the hardware and "feel" for the back two. At this point the pump assy just lifts out. Remove the motor /pump by removing one bolt and turning it counter clockwise and withdrawing. I put the new one in. Don't forget to put the pump screen in as I missed this and had to redo the job. Reverse all the previous steps being careful to keep the motor guard out of the pump seal area. Use lots of silicon seal grease and check for leaks on first power up. It took me a couple of adjustments to get a leak-free seal.

I ordered this part after the sanitized light on my dishwasher was flashing. The dishes were no longer drying. To replace the part, my husband pulled out the dishwasher and unscrewed some nuts (accessing under the heater through the side openings). The entire repair took under 15 minutes, and works perfectly. I have to mention that the heater was shaped differently than the one it replaced, but was a perfect fit in the clips.