KUDC03IVWH4 KitchenAid Dishwasher - Instructions

repairman replaced the valve inlet; first website tried to tell me I needed a new pump, but repairman said it would be some type of valve; service rep on phone very helpful,I ordered the correct part,except for having to lay on the floor, he repaired it easily; part came within 24 hours. Worked immediately. No additional tubes or parts needed.

To access the handle assembly, the control panel must be removed. Remove six (6) torx screws (T-20?) from inside of door, being careful to support the control panel, as there are small wires between the door and the control panel assembly. Carefully remove what remains of the broken handle so as not to damage the mounting pegs. Snap the new handle carefully in place. I took the advice of Thomas from Austin, TX and added a second spring to the other side where pegs exist on both the handle and the control panel assembly. I used needle nose pliers, as it is a little tight trying to get the small spring on the pegs. Place the control panel back in position and reattach using the six torx screws removed previously. Overall repair time was less than 10 minutes. The handle does have a more "reliable" feel having return springs on both sides.

I read information on this website about the function of the high limit thermostat. I found that it was the problem by disconnecting the two wires on the thermostat and straight wiring to bypass it. This allowed the machine to work properly so I ordered the high limit thermostat. To replace the part I used a screwdriver to remove the instrument panel and replaced the high limit thermostat by disconnecting the two wires from the old thermostat and connecting the wires to the new thermostat. I then replaced the instrument panel. My machine is working properly again..

First I shut off the power and the water then I disconnected the drain hose. Then I removed the dishwasher from under the counter and turned it up side down. I remover the pump retaining screw turned the pump, removed it. installed the new pump reinstalled the retaining screw. and reinstalled the dishwasher under the counter. I reconnected the drain and water then turned on the power. the dishwasher is working great. Thanks PartSelect for the fast delivery and the right part.

The dishwasher was so load I was sure the pump had a bad bearing. . . After reading the on line comments I examined the chopper and it looked ok. As it turned out the damage was on the shaft and caused the shaft to lock onto the screen without the ability for the spring to work it must have caused excess pressure making the loud noise. I replaced the chopper and now the dishwasher is very quiet again. To replace I took out the baskets and four screw on the big screen and one more screw on the chopper cover then I had to pull on the chopper with moderate force and install the new one . Then I put back the covers and basket. . . Very easy

off with the old, on with the new.

Used a video to guide me.

Installed brackets

The part was easy to install. But , you might have to unhook electrical, water, and drain. That is the time problem, part install is easy. All I had was a socket set, 1/4, drive fits. But a nutdriver would have been easier. WATCH the install video, great info!!!!!

Took old basket out and put new basket in took less than 5 minutes

Remove power to the machine. My particular installation did not require physically removing water and drain lines. Remove the dishwasher from the cavity. Put a towel or two down on the floor. Lay the washer on its face on the towels and this orients the motor in the up position on the bottom of the washer. CAREFULLY unplug the motor wiring harness but if possible, leave the heating element connection in place as spade connectors tend to lose their grip with multiple engagements. Remove the single bolt located between the motor and stainless bottom of the cavity that locks the motor in place. Leave it in the cardboard shield, that really helps in reinstalling it. CCW rotation of the motor disengages it from its housing. Work the motor straight up and out of the housing. This was the most difficult part of the entire process due to the metal housing not quite clearing the plastic pump housing where they mate, but its do-able. Nothing should have to be forced. Now you have the motor in hand. Be very attentive how and what order you disassemble. Remove the back of the motor housing to block the armature to remove the impeller. DO NOT NICK THE FIELD WIRING IN THE MOTOR. I believe the threads were left hand but I don't remember the rotation. They do tighten in the direction of the motor rotation though. Carefully pry the seal out of the pump housing with many short lifts as to not mar the housing itself. Added a little dishwashing detergent on the outside of the new seal and carefully pushed it into place with the end of my screwdriver. Don't cut yourself on the metal insert in the center of the seal.Reassemble the impeller to the shaft WITH the spacer that comes with the new impeller kit. Make sure the impeller is tightened down completely to the end of the threads to insure proper clearances when reassembled. Don't force or over tighten. You'll feel a positive stop. Reassemble the motor to the housing Lubricate the housing o ring seal on the outside with a VERY small amount of dishwashing liquid lest you create a suds factory on startup. Replace the holding bolt on the pump housing. Reconnect the motor leads and heater element if removed. Stand the washer back up. There will probably be water around the door area from the pump when the machine is returned to the upright position. Reconnect lines and check under the pump housing for leaks while in operation being careful not to get into moving parts or electrical connections. Good luck.

Followed video on your site rapair was the same as the video

The most direct way to do this job is to completely pull out the dishwasher so you can get to all the parts involved. However, I didn't want to break and make all 3 connections. Having installed it using braided hose for the water line, I had enough give to pull the unit out about halfway. This exposed the pulleys and door hook, but the spring was still in the back (and had actually fallen off the frame and was now lying behind the frame on the floor. So a little back and forth and I was able to retrieve it. I hooked the link on the end and blindly and miraculously hooked the spring into it's hole on the frame. Since I had no room to work with the door open, I had to keep it closed which meant the spring was under full tension. This is where the drum stick came in. I pulled the spring forward with a pliers and shoved the drumstick in the loop on the spring and held the stick against the baseboard while I threaded the string around the pulleys and onto the door hook. I guess I could have tried a long screwdriver, but the drumstick was handy and the bulbous tip prevented the spring from sliding off