Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Burned out socket, right side of refrigerator compartment.
I was changing a defective bulb and somehow the hot lead for the socket got grounded, and arched. This made the socket defective. I simply took out the defective socket and replaced it with the new one I ordered. Working fine now. PCH
Light rocker switch broke and refrigerator light couldn't go on.
I just popped out the old switch with a flat head screwdriver. Removed the connections and then installed new switch by reversing steps. Popped in back in and the light went on.
Frig wasn't as cold as it should be; even with gauges cranked all the way down
Noticed fan wasn't running, remo ved, verified that it wasn't a sensor, ordered new part, installed new part...works like new. Everything is cold again!
Water valve inlet solenoid went out and stopped pumping water to icemaker.
This water valve is slightly different from the original on my older GE refrigerator (i.e., the mounting bracket is larger and oriented differently, thus doesn't fit). To still use the part, I first tried mounting the new valve on my original bracket, but this resulted in a sideways mounting of the solenoid/magnet valve. This orientation generated a slower and noisier water pumping action (the solenoid/magnet valve is assisted by gravity, so it needs be installed with the top of the solenoid facing up). Then I opted to use the original valve plastic housing and bracket and switch out all rubber seals and gaskets and the enitire solenoid/magnet assembly from the new one. This worked like brand new.
A very cold and brittle switch in a 17 year old fridge. Used screwdrivers to pry out with some resistance Had to cut the molded plug in half and split wires, because replacement contacts were farther apart than the original. End result, works great.
removed the 2 screws that held the panel in place, had to reach up and push on locking tabs to lower trhe front of the panel. was able to then push on the locking tab of the switch to release it. removed the wires, replaced them onto the new switch, and snapped the switch into place. the rest was reverse of the uninstall process.
I noticed that the refrigerator was having trouble maintaining temperature. Thought it might be time for new one until I found out that a new frig was $5k to $7K. Just happened to notice that the light switch didn't look quite right (was not sitting sqaure to the door). Once I pressed it it came loose. I then realized the the lights were staying on (50 watts of heating). Replaced the switch and the frig started working like new.
Part was easy to order, delivered quickly, installation very easy. Just unplug the unit, pop out the old swich using a screwdriver, disconnect and reconnect leads and pop switch back in. Definitely recommend that you can do it too.
This was an easy fix. The first thing you need to do is shut off the water to the ice maker. Then unplug refrigerator. Then take the panels off the back of the refrigerator to get to the water valve. The valve is at the bottom left hand corner. Take the inlet hose off and the outer hose off of the valve. Take the screws out to remove the valve from the panel. Replace the valve with the new one and hook up the hoses again. Make sure to tighten securely so that you do not have any leaks. Put everything back together and plug refrigerator in. Turn on water slowly and check for leaks. If no leaks, push refrigerator back and wait for the ice to begin. Piece of cake!!
Pry old switch and pull out. Disconect two wires. Put two wires on new switch, must be inserted right and connections not loose. Put switch in, making shure wies do not come off and snap in place
Unplug appliance. Socket wrench to unscrew two screws. Module drops down. disconnected two press-on wires by prying off with screwdriver. Removed old switch. Press-fit new switch. Reconnected two wires (color coded). Screwed module back in place. Plug in appliance.
Turn off water supply. Unplug the refridgerator and move so easy access to back. Remember to lower front right wheel to lift rubber foot off ground. Locate valve and remove, note color orientation of wiring (I did not have to remove cardboard cover.) Have a bucket and towel handy because water will spill. Compare the valves to ensure correct part. Apply teflon tape to threads and reconnect hoses and turn on water supply to check for leaks. Then connect power supply and re-attach to refridgerator. Use vac to clean back of refridgerator of dust and build up. Move refridgerator into position and raise front right wheel until rubber foot is back on floor. Use vac to clean coils in the front of the refridgerator. Replace grill. I allowed 4 batches to run before using ice. Pretty simple repair.
