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Freezer compartment iced over, food thawing,
I deenergized the refigerator, removed the storage tray, three screws that hold the ice maker, two screws that hold the lower portion of the freezer, two screws tjhat hold the back portion of the freezer. Removed the ice maker and disconnected the wire connector and ground, Removed lower portion of the freezer which allowed the back portion to be lifted out. Once the back was out the bimetal defrost thermostat was located in the upper right corner clipped to a copper line. Using an ohm meter, I found the bimetal defrost thermostat to be electrically open, ordered part from information found on part, Once part arrived I deenergized the refrigerator and replaced bimetal thermostat by cutting the old thermostat wires (pink and brown), stripping the wires back about 5/8 inch and wire nutting the replacement parts like colored wires, clipped the bimetal part on the copper tube, replaced the covers in reverse order, and reenergized the refrigerator. Testing and replacing the part took about 15 minutes, waiting for the ice build up to thaw took considerably longer.
There was a loud noise coming from the fridge - we ordered the new part it came a lot sooner than we excepted and we replaced it in about 20 minutes- the hardest part was my husband getting his hand in there to put the screws in- but a very easy fix.
From the time I started to finish I worked 3 hours, this included installing the new ice maker, cutting into the cold water line in the basement and installing a t with a 6inch piece of pipe with a compression valve to connect to the small cooper tube, this is worth your time to do it this way, its a lot better connection than the small pierce valves that come with the kit, they will leak over time. I installed the filter in the waterline in the basement for easy access
Just replaced the switch, but unfortunately that was not the problem; nor was it the bulb....so I am back to square one. But Parts Select is a great place to order from. Thank you.
Replaced Freezer Door and Refrigerator Door Gaskets
!st removed the doors from the unit, then laid them on the floor. Next, on a long side of the door, cut through the gasket so I could pull it off the door in one piece without separating the door liner from the outer door. Then, starting at a corner, started pushing the stiff black part of the replacement gasket between the liner and outer door, making sure to push it completely under as I went. Used a thick flat bladed screwdriver to carefully help push the final corner section in. Repeated on both doors, rehung, plugged in and done!
Most important, remove bracket attached to freezer rear wall and put entire fan motor assembly together, including attaching power supply, ground wire, front bracket and fan blade (be sure rubber vibration dampeners are in place on both brackets) THEN attach the whole assembly to the rear freezer wall! Doing it this way is so much easier, and you won't run the risk of losing a screw behind the condenser, as I did!
Top freezer, remove fan cover on back panel in side top freezer, remove back panel inside top freezer, remove fan and fan motor, unplug electric from fan (PS unplug fridge first). Install new motor, replace ever thing in reverse. works great.
Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you
I just unscrewed the plate that locks in the light switch (screwdriver) and unplugged the old faulty part and plugged in the new switch, screwed the cover back on and I was done!
Ice buildup on the bottom of the freezer, water dripping into the refrigerator
After unplugging the refrigerator, I used a hairdryer to melt the ice sufficiently to be able to remove the freezer rear panel with a nutdriver. I also removed the ice-maker for easier access to the components behind the panel, using a nutdriver. Once the panel was removed I melted more ice at the bottom of the evaporator housing. After partially melting the ice in the drain tube, I poured hot water down the drain tube until it cleared, signaled by the sound of the water dripping into the drain pan. I next removed the clip-on Bimetal thermostat from the copper line going into the evaporator and snipped the two wires to remove it. I installed the replacement thermostat with crimp-style connectors and pull-tested them. I also replaced the timer board that is located below the freezer, below the top shelf, using a nutdriver. I replaced the circuit board as a precaution that the thermostat may not have caused the problem. I didn't change the heater inside the freezer as it checked out to have the same resistance as a new one. I tested the removed thermostat using a glass of ice water but it remained in the open condition, using an ohmmeter. (I later checked that thermostat after the freezer was running and it did close, and returned it to the open position by heating it under the hot water faucet. I suspect that it didn't work properly, or the timer control board was faulty). After re-installing the back panel and ice-maker and plugging the refrigerator into the power receptacle, it worked very well, and has done so since the repair.
The Freezer defrosted and everything on the top and the bottom spoiled
i had used your web site before and i read several problems that your readers had. i went to the back of the unit, removed the bottom cover and right there the i found the run capacitor and i chaged it. since i had only ordered this part to save money i went back and ordered the Start Device which when i took it off it was completely burned. the replacement part came labeled with 2 different compressor #, so i picked the one that i had and unpluged each wire. the part may differ from the one that it's in the unit but it worked when i pluged everything back on. it also helps to take a picture of everything before removing the wires in case you have to leave it and come back later. i hope to use this refrigerator another 10 years. thank you all for your help.
All three lights are not working...lights are off but refrigerator still cooling. Also, the control box not lit up to show the temparture for freezer and refrigerator
Used a screw driver to pull old switch. Pulled one wire at a time, only two wires. After wires instlled to new switch push new one back in place where the old one was.
