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Clogged Ice shoot in freezer door (curshed ice)
First remove the ice container from the freezer and dump all of the ice. Remove the four screws holding the front ice container cover. Remove the control arm screw and bracket from the bottom of the ice container, remove crusher housing (screws and retainer clip). Remove nylon bearing nut on front of auger shaft (left handed threads). Remove crusher blades and spacers (remember order of blades and spacers). Remove broken floating baffle. Replace baffle and reverse removal procedures.
1. Removed Ice cube bin. 2. Removed the 4 screws holding dispenser bracket in place. 3.Unplugged electrical connector for motor and removed the unit. 4. Removed the coupler,wiring connections and three screws holding dispenser motor to mounting bracket. 5.Installed new dispenser motor onto bracket, put on coupler and connected wiring to motor. 6. Installed newly assembled unit put ice bin back into place. Dispenser works great.
The hardest part was getting the front cover plate off. I used two kitchen knifes one in each slot on the bottom of the plate and pried it off and unplug it. I removed one screw to release arm. I then used long nose pliers to remove the pin on door arm assemble. Then unplug door heater. New door has no heater. The heater had cooked the plastic arm, which caused the arm to fail. Then reassemble in reverse order.
The Ice Maker Deflector Broke and Needed Replacing
I first removed the ice bin from freezer. There were four nut screws on back of ice bin cover that I removed with a screw driver, giving me access to the deflector. The deflector has two prongs that attach it securely to the ice bin, I used a phylips head screw driver to release the prongs from the deflector. I installed the new deflector by placing it through the bottom portion of deflector area, using the phyllips screw driver I engaged the prongs of the deflector into slots on ice bin. There was a hook on the back side of the deflector that went over a metal rod that controls the ice cube release. Then replace front cover of ice bin with the four nut screws and returned it to the ice maker location.
Water began to leak under the refrigerator. Source looked like it was coming from control valve suppling water to ice maker and water dispenser.
Followed instructions supplied. It was relatively easy and the parts fit exactly right. Sears wanted twice as much for the part and service would have charged me another $100 to come to my home. I saved over $100 doing the project myself.
First, turn of the water supply. Then remove the snap on grill from the bottom front of the refrigerator. Disconnect the black hose from the white hose and drain the hoses into a suitable recepticle. Then remove the 1/4" screw that holds the nozzle in place. Cut the hose off just behind the nozzle bracket and tape the end of the new hose to the now exposed end of the existing hose. From the bottom of the door you can now gently pull out the old hose while pulling in the new one. Re-attach the new hose to the existing white hose and replace the 1/4' screw to the new nozzle bracket. I reccoment using 1" wide tape and only going around the tubes once. Too much tape and you won't be able to feed it through the small hole at the bottom of the door. Have someone feed the hose from the top as you gently pull from the bottom.
1. shutoff water 2. removed 3 screws holding old ice maker. A small nut or screw driver is needed to get into a somewhat tight area 3. detached electrical connector 4. cut indicated area for water inlet to lie in 4. attached new electrical connector (no splicing needed) 5. attached new ice maker with 3 screws 6. put on water
my order was processed and received withn 3 days. Replacing the parts on my kitchenaid refrigerator was straight forward, since the design was made for quick removal for cleaning of parts, with no tools required. My only recomendation to KitchenAid would be possibly design the weak points a little stronger so they do not break in the first place.
Removed the top two screws and one on the bottom which attach the ice maker to the side of the freezer. I unclipped the wire bundle from the side of the ice maker and unplugged the connector, totally removing the unit . The maker came with several different wiring setups, but I just used the existing. The contol arm on the new unit basically snaps into place and the above process is reversed to install the new unit. My old ice maker had an accelerator which blows cold air to the bottom of the tray to speed up ice production. This component was undamaged and by taking off the new units outer end cap and borrowing the clips from the old unit, this component can be installed on the new ice maker.
Pulled cardboard cover off back of ref to access the compressor compartment. Unplugged appliance, and pull the start device and overload off of compressor. Replaced both parts received from Partselect.com. Refrigerator works great now.
I removed the screws on the upper hinge and removed the door. I removed the lower cam in about 2 minutes and had it replaced. The upper cam was a tight fit in the door and I resorted to vise-grips to remove it. Total time to replace cams and put the door back on was 30 minutes. This saved me $100. Thanks
I ordered a Thermostat but didnot need it, here's why. I removed the old thermostat that is under a white plastic cover at the top of the refrig.inside.By the way ,the cover just snaps off very carefully.after ordering a new Defuser and it still would not work I ordered a thermostat hopeing that would open the Defuser to let cool air in the refrig. Long story short there are two very small holes in the thermostat that hold two very tiny screws, spring activated and one screw while I was looking at the thermostat just fell out in my hand.I put the screw back in the hole and pushed down on the screw with a straight eye glass screwdriver and tighten it. Everything works fine now [just a loose screw].
Following a brief power outage, it stopped producing ice. Harvester was at 6:00 with fingers frozen in ice cubes. Would make a batch if I freed the harvester and jumped the t-stat, but would quit again.
Unplugged refrigerator. Used nut driver to remove small bolt retaining wire cover on right side of ice maker. Removed wire cover, used flat head screw driver to depress side-rail clips. Ice maker slid out, unplugged. Timer module cover pops off easily. Three screws removed the timer module. Installation was reverse of removal. Had ice in less than an hour, bin was full by next morning. If you have a screw driver and know what it's for, this job should come easily.
Be advised that to do this job, you have to take the ice tray and feeder assembly completely apart. The only tricky part is that the nut, part 31 in the drawing, that holds everything together is reverse threaded. Since it's plastic, you're afraid you'll break it. If you know it's reverse threaded to begin with you can go ahead and apply the required force to get it off.
Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
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Ice maker's ice tray coating coming off, ice bin had foul odor.
I noticed the coating inside the ice maker, the lining on the surface that the water contacts when making ice, was chipping off. I replaced the ice maker with a new unit and now there's no more bits of stuff in my ice. The other problem I had was the ice bin, it had picked up a weird smell over the years and I wanted to replace it. The new bin seems flimsier, but works fine. It didn't have the top attachment hole for the ice auger mechanism drilled out for some reason, it had a little "bump" in the plastic where it should be, but was never drilled out. Easy enough, I drilled the hole out and attached that top screw without any issue.
