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Refrigerator/Freezer not cooling
Disconnect power to refrigerator. Removed all food from Freezer. Removed all Shelves and shelf clips. Used phillips screwdriver and removed 6 screws from lower rear panel covering evaporator coil. Removed panel. Pulled plastic fan blade off top of motor shaft. Unclip top front of black motor retainer clip which then allowed the rear clip to unhook. Removed clip. Then removed 3 wires from fan motor, noting proper location for replacement. Slide the fan motor out to the left. Installed new motor. Reinstalled clip, hooking rear side first. Then rehooked the 3 wires. Slide fan blade back on top until secure. Tested everything at this point before reassembling rear panel. Then replace rear panel, replace the 6 screws, replace shelf clips and shelves and replace food. Very easy to do and saved about $150 over a service call to troubleshoot and re-visit to install after getting part
the parts sent included two replacement kits which at first was confusing. I determined that I only needed the one with the black tubing for my Kenmore refrig. Turned off water supply and vacuumed up all the dust bunnys behind refrig. Removed bottom grate on refrig where black tubing attaches at the other end. Released water left in tubing at dispenser. I did not have to remove the front panel. Removed one screw attaching the nozzle to the dispenser. Decoupled tubing at the far end, more water came out here too. Pulled out upper end of tubing a couple of inches and snipped off. Attached tubing to new tubing with thin wire (as others here recommended) and had my husband pull at far end while I pushed slowly at the dispenser end. Once through reattached screw at top and recoupled at the bottom. Mission accomplished!
removed the clip that the motor was attached too put the new motor back on reinstalled the clip back on the fridge plugged the wire harness in and works perfect now . it was easier to remove the clip than to try to install the motor by itself its just to tight and you cant get in there
The hardest part was getting the front cover plate off. I used two kitchen knifes one in each slot on the bottom of the plate and pried it off and unplug it. I removed one screw to release arm. I then used long nose pliers to remove the pin on door arm assemble. Then unplug door heater. New door has no heater. The heater had cooked the plastic arm, which caused the arm to fail. Then reassemble in reverse order.
Remove the kick panel and simply turn the filter counter clockwise and it slips right out.Water shuts off when filter is removed.After new filter is installed be sure to bleed line thru the water outlet in door to clear air in system.When first water is bled the water will continue to run until line drains. Then comes the air.Bleed until water is clear.Its an easy job and can save you$$$$$.Ray Palm Bch Fl.
Emiter blinking red; ice maker stopped working. Called appliance repair, said electronic control boards needed to be replaced. Quoted me $275, including parts. Ordered part at partselect.com, installed in 15 min and ice maker started producing ice. Also discovered on other online forums that this part is a common failure on these model refrigerators. Very easy to swap out, plug & play. Make sure to unplug appliance before performing repair due to shock risk.
Taped plastic cover to get it out of the way with duct tape - removed three screws on each side - removed retaining screw for each module - carefully disengaged module using small flat head screw driver being sure to release the plastic retainer and then reverse the process. Be sure new modules snap into place.
Biggest problem was initially figuring out what the problem was. Turning off the ice maker had no effect and it just kept making ice.
It was really easy to do. The water filter is in the front of the refrigerator. Less than 30 seconds. I am very happy with PartSelect. I bought parts for my dryer too. New lint filter, timer knob and door handle. Parts arrive immediately. I am sure I will be back to PartSelect.com.
Well I changed out the optical boards which I thought were the problem and the ice maker is still not making any ice. I can see the ice makers fingers rotating but there is no water entering through the tube. I jumped the water manifold in the back and water comes out but I cant figure out what is not telling it to run water and fill the ice tray. Any ideas would be appreciated I guess i'll replace the ice maker next. Thanks in advance.
Cracked Evaporation tray was leaking water on kitchen floor
I emptied refrigerator contents and tilted the refrigerator to the right so as to access the metal panel upon which the evaporation tray was resting. The metal panel is on the left side underneath the refrigerator and the evaporation tray is resting on the panel. I removed 4 screws that were holding the metal panel, pressed down on the panel, slid out the old, cracked plastic evaporation tray, inserted the new plastic evaporation tray, raised the metal panel to its original position, replaced the 4 screws, being careful not to pinched the water line that feeds the ice-maker. VOILA! Un-tilt the frig and re-stock it. It took a day for the temperature to stabilize, due to tilting, I think. New tray $45.
Removal of the old assembly went quickly once I understood about the "push and release" tubing connectors. The exception was the connection from the water inlet assembly to the water filter which uses a different diameter connection at the inlet end, and would not "push and release". So to install the new valves, I simply by passed the old inlet assembly and used the extra push splicer furnished in the kit for the water inlet to the filter. All the other connections were easy push ins. Next time will be 1/2 hour maximum!
First, turn of the water supply. Then remove the snap on grill from the bottom front of the refrigerator. Disconnect the black hose from the white hose and drain the hoses into a suitable recepticle. Then remove the 1/4" screw that holds the nozzle in place. Cut the hose off just behind the nozzle bracket and tape the end of the new hose to the now exposed end of the existing hose. From the bottom of the door you can now gently pull out the old hose while pulling in the new one. Re-attach the new hose to the existing white hose and replace the 1/4' screw to the new nozzle bracket. I reccoment using 1" wide tape and only going around the tubes once. Too much tape and you won't be able to feed it through the small hole at the bottom of the door. Have someone feed the hose from the top as you gently pull from the bottom.
