Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
No Defrost Mode After Heating Element Replacement
Super simple job. Unplug freezer. Have a hair dryer handy to defrost while you have unit open. Remove food from the bottom two shelves and floor of freezer. Remove mid plastic cover removing three screws. (All screws are same so mixing them is no big deal.) Use drill-driver or screw driver to spin out six screws on lower back plate. Remove plate. Thermistor is on left side of the cooling tubing. Use hair dryer to melt ice if necessary. Un-clip thermistor power connection, and unsnap it from tubing. snap new thermistor on cooling tube and hook up wiring. Ensure plug fits together correctly and snugly. If heavy icing exists, use hair dryer to melt ice on coils and through fan. Ensure water drains out of drain pan under coils. Wipe up as much ice melt as possible to prvent re-frosting upon start-up. Replace lower panel and six screws. Replace mid-panel cover and three screws and replace shelves. Done! Plug freezer back in and expect 30 second delay before unit will start up.
Took a putty knife and Removed the old switch removed the spade terminals from the old switch and replaced them on the new switch and just pushed the new switch back in place
Removed the 2 screws holding the light bulb shield, then the 4 uolding the metal panel. Unplugged the olw door switch and replaced. reassembled the pieces.
Referencing the info/schematics you have on your website, I unscrewed/unattached top-front panel (carefully), from behind the panel you have to detach the wires (2) from the switch, pushed "in" the switch to remove, put in new switch and attach wires to test BEFORE remounting panel. Tada!! Thank you PartSelect! You saved me at least $80...would have been at least $100 to have a repair person come to the house!
Repair went well,took about five to ten minutes to disconnect the power from the fridge removed the defective switch installed the new one ,reconnected the power,,,and Let there be light and there was light!
Raise side of fridge and slide 2x4 under side with broken wheel.
Remove back side cardboard access cover. About 6 dcrews need to be removed. Remove 9/16” bolt and lower compressor tray frame down to slide out wheel axel. Place wheel in slot and replace axel. Lift compressor tray and replace 9/16” bolt. Replace cardboard cover. Remove 2x4.
Freezer was defrosting at the wrong temperature resulting in excess frost and ice. Poor cooling!
Removed all food! I used storage boxes insulates with blankets and a bit of dry ice in the boxes to keep the food cold.
Removed bottom bin and shelf
Removed bottom cover and fan shroud, this exposes evaporator coil and the thermostat. I had to defrost the evaporator and thermostat, they were completely encased in ice.
Thermostat is clipped to the evaporator coil, simply pry it off and removed it from the wire harness. Easy! Thermostat has a connector! Installed new thermostat in the same location as the old one. Connected it to the wire harness and replace the bottom cover. Turned it on and it seems to be working fine, now three weeks after repair.
The broken tracks popped off with a little effort, and the new tracks snapped in place. No tools required, except a screw driver helped to pop the broken tracks out, and snap the new ones in place.
Unhooked water line from house to fridge then unbolted valve from fridge body then removed plastic water line from fridge to valve by pushing in on pex release tab then reversed process with new valve. Works like a charm. No more leakage. Wood floor is dry and Happy!
inserted a knife between the switch and the plastic interior in order to pop the switch out. then took off the 2 wires on the old switch put them on the new switch and reinserted the switch into the plastic interior.