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KGYS750GQ1 KitchenAid Dryer - Instructions

All installation instructions for KGYS750GQ1 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dryer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the KGYS750GQ1
31-45 of 1,431
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Broken belt - drum would not turn

  • Customer: Gary from Oakland MD
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 44 of 48 people found this instruction helpful
Started out taking the back off, then found online that access is from the front and much easier to get to. Simply pop the hinges in the back of the top panel and then the front of the top is popped off. From there, it is easy to remove the old belt, clean the innards (found 31 cents) and replace the new belt. It was a little disconcerting to see the idler pulley laying loose inside, but the diagram showed exactly how to put it back in place, with the new belt keeping it in place.

worn out lint filter

  • Customer: gregg from castaic CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 42 of 47 people found this instruction helpful
The new lint filter fits perfectly,however because the handle is much larger than the original it does not allow the filter to close completely...causing a small amount of lint to acummulate on the dryer top.

GAS FLAME WOULD DROP OUT

  • Customer: FRED from BRIELLE NJ
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 42 of 56 people found this instruction helpful
first it was a process of alimination to find out why it was dropping out. after the problem was found it was just a matter of replacing the holding coil on the gas valve.
THANK YOU
FRED KENNEY SR

Dryer motor would not turn on

  • Customer: John from Bluffton SC
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Wrench set
  • 36 of 41 people found this instruction helpful
After looking at the schematic to see what was in line with the motor, I found the fuse as the first item. I pulled the fuse out and used a multimeter to ohm out the fuse. Upon using the meter I found that the fuse was bad. I typed into Google my part number that was on the fuse and the PartSelect Website came up as one of the choices to pick from. When the part arrived approx. two days later I installed the fuse by first unplugging the dryer and then removing the bottom panel and removing the fuse from the exhaust by using a small 1/4 inch wrench and pulling out the old fuse. I installed the wires on the new fuse and re-installed and put the 1/4 inch screw back in. I started the dryer after plugging it back in and it worked like it should have. Thank you for the part and I have recommended your website to other people already.

Rear Dryer Seal was old and staining clothing

  • Customer: Grace from Phoenix AZ
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 33 of 35 people found this instruction helpful
After unplugging the dryer,I removed 2 bolts on the back top of the dryer, then removed the two screws in the lint box area. I used a screw driver to help force the top panel of the dryer up. When open, I removed the top screws that held the front and side panels together. I then lifted the front panel up and away from the dryer, so there would be room to take the drum out. I removed the belt from the pulley (located under the drum) and slid the drum out. I removed the old seal, cleaned up the drum and the inside of the dryer, then glued the new seal on. After the glue was dry, I put the drum back in (with the belt on the drum), put the belt back on the pulley and proceeded to put the dryer front back on. Once the front was on, I put the top back on and replaced the bolts on the back of the dryer. I plugged it in and it is working great! By the way, before this, I had NEVER attempted to repair a dryer before and I am female. If I could do it, so can anyone else willing to try :)

No heat to dry clothes

  • Customer: Karen from Pine Mtn. Club, CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 35 of 42 people found this instruction helpful
First I took the front of the dryer off then located the igniter. It only required removing two screws, removing old igniter, replacing with new igniter, and replacing the two screws.. While I was replacing the igniter I took the drum out and throughly cleaned the inside. Lucky me, I found 85 cents on the floor of the dryer. I am 65yrs old, married and mother of two.
This was easy to do and sure saved money. I reccommend others try to do repairs for themselves and using PartSelect was less expensive too.

the dryer only blew cold air

  • Customer: charles from waukesha WI
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 29 of 33 people found this instruction helpful
actually i found your site before i even looked at the dryer,thats how i knew to check for the thermal fuse.
I ordered the part and it was on my door in 36
hours,pulled the two wires off the old fuse and installed the new,put the back cover on and it has been working ever since,thanks ( your in my bookmarks)

Dryer belt snapped

  • Customer: J. from Oakdale NY
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 28 of 33 people found this instruction helpful
There are a total of six screws that have to be removed to do this job.
Take the lint tray out and remove the first two screws.
Secondly, remove the lower panel in the front of the dryer. You do this by inserting a screwdriver at the top portion and pry it off. Next, loosen the two screws under the top panel in the front of the dryer.
Now take your screwdriver and pry up the top lid of the dryer. The last two screws are in the inside of the front panel. They hold together the front and side panels. Remove them and be sure you have a support for under the dryer drum. (once you remove the front panel, the drum no longer has a way to stay suspended)
(Make sure you disconnect the wires attached to the front door, making note of which wire goes where.)
At this point, You can follow the easy instructions that come with your new belt.
If you have a little mechanical aptitude, this is a very easy project.

Gas burner would not ignite

  • Customer: Jack from Conroe TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 27 of 30 people found this instruction helpful
(I knew the gas coils were bad, since the gas ignitor would glow brightly as the burner attempted to ignite. So I knew everything except the gas valve was operating normally.)

Unplug the electrical cord to the dryer. Remove the front access panel. Remove the retainer clip for the gas coils (2 screws). Remove the coils and unplug the electrical connections. Connect the new coils to their respective electricl connections. Slide the nes coils back onto their respective posts on the gas valve. Replace the retainer clip, and 2 screws to hold it in place. (I then plugged the dryer back into the wall outlet to visually check the burner operation) Everything worked fine so I then replaced the front panel.

No power

  • Customer: Nick from Brandon FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 27 of 33 people found this instruction helpful
My 14 year old son did it as I supervised! Pulled the dryer out on a dolly, unpluged the dyer, removed 9 hex head screws to remove the back cover, removed and replaced the thermal fuse, located next to the exhust outlet, set the cover back on, moved the dryer back in with the dolly. I had the thermal fuse over nighted to me for a total price of $35, figured I saved at least $150 on a service call by Whirpool.

Dryer would start and heat, but after 1st cycle the burner would not fire and a buzzing sound was coming from the gas valve solenoid area. Igniter and other functions worked fine.

  • Customer: David from Bedford IN
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 25 of 27 people found this instruction helpful
Removed front of dryer, unplugged each coil to determine where buzzing was coming from.....determined it was the boosting coil....ordered part and replaced. Dryer works great....we think it had be going bad over time because drying times have noticeable decreased.

Drum stopped turning, fan continued to blow

  • Customer: Richard from Davie FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 24 of 25 people found this instruction helpful
Disconnected supply. Lifted top (hinges on rear). removed two 1/4 hex head screws retaining front panel. Disconnected door switch wires. Removed front panel, lifting off from bottom tabs. Lifted out drum and discarded broken belt. Spent 30 minutes+ cleaning interior, drum skid area, dryer exit tube, motor pulley, belt tensioner, etc, etc. Checked wiring harness for possible damage (no damage found). Repositioned drum skid pads, which had become dislodged from their intended position. Reinstalled the drum with new belt, ensuring both belt & tensioner were correctly positioned, and drum rollers and felt seals were also correctly positioned. Reinstalled front panel, tightening the two 1/4 hex head retaining screws. Reconnected power. Checked functionality. Closed top cover.

Dryer would not shut off on auto dry settings

  • Customer: Wiliam from Belleville MI
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 25 of 28 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the discharge duct from the back of the dryer. Then, I removed the screws on the back of the dryer and the back itself. This exposed the cycling thermostat. I removed the screw holding the thermostat. I took the wires off the defective thermostat and reinstalled them on the new thermostat. Then, I reassembled in reverse order.

The dryer would start to heat then the heat would stop

  • Customer: Theodore from Riverside CA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 26 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
I changed out the cycling thermostat and the high limit thermostat. Mainly because that was what my research indicated was the problem. I then found some more information online that indicated the gas solenoid valves were bad. I ordered them from you and replaced them. The problem was fixed.

In order to replace the valves you need to remove the top panel. Two screws at the top of the front door assembly hold it on. Remove the screws, lift up on the front panel door assembly and move it to the side. The drum will rest in place. In the lower left corner, under the drum, you will see the solenoids. Two screws attach a plate that holds down the solenoids. Take the hold down plate off, disconnect the control wires attached to the solenoids and lift out the solenoid/control valves. To assemble everything, work backwards to the start. Good Luck

Dryer making loud squealing noise when running

  • Customer: Stephen from Springfield MA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 22 of 23 people found this instruction helpful
The (front) bearing and seal are not metal parts but a fabric and and mesh like material. It is somewhat like a fabric belt made to hold up a pair of trousers. The belt sits in a channel that goes around the door on the inside of the front panel. To get to the combination bearing/seal you remove two screws that are located under the cover of the lint trap. These have to be removed to lift the top. Then using a putty knife or screw driver you must pop the top (which snaps down on plastic clips) at the front corners. The top lifts up and folds back on hinges. The front is attached to the sides by one screw on each side near the top. A nut driver will remove then easily. Once the 2 screws are removed lift the front panel about 2 inches to disengage the front panel from the clips that hold the front attached to the sides near the bottom. When you remove the front panel the dryer drum will literally fall out so you want to get hold of it before pulling the front panel away so it isn't damaged and and doesn't damage the gas burner assembly which is under the drum to the left side. The drum is very light. I supported it with an empty shoe box while the front was off.
Once the front is off you'll see the bearing/seal on the inside of the front panel and it will be obvious how to remove the old one and place the new one. There are three pegs on the front panel that receive the three holes in the fabric bearing/seal. The seal will stay in place while you remove the shoe box and put the front cover back on. The drum fits over the seal like a lid on a jar and just slides on the fabric when the drum rotates. Low tech but the drums slides easily on the bearing material and seems to last a long time.

I also did the rear dryer seal. This is similar to the front. To do this you follow the procedure above but to get to the real seal you will have to remove the drum. It will fall out on its own if the front panel is removed. The drive belt goes around the drum. It is about 3/8th of and wide and just wraps around the drum without any teeth or channels or anything. Let the belt fall to the bottom as you lift the drum forward and out of the cabinet. The drum is light. Just put it on the floor and strip off the old rear seal which is glued on. It too is fabric. Clean up the drum a little and fit the new seal on the drum. Once the seal is on the drum you can lift the edge of the fabric seal and glue the fabric flange to the drum. This becomes pretty obvious once you have the seal on the drum. If you put the glue on the drum first you will make a mess. Put the seal on properly and the lift the edge to apply the adhesive all the way around. The adhesive sets enough in a hour or so. Put the drum back in and replace the front panel. Don't forget the drive belt. It goes around the drive motor that is located on the bottom of the dryer on the right, around or over an idler pulley (my older model does not have a idler wheel but rather a bracket with a "slide" that the belt runs over that keeps sufficient tension on the belt to drive the drum. If your belt falls off the motor and the idler pulley falls out it may be confusing how the belt goes in. My idler bracket is held in slots on the bottom of the cabinet merely by the tension of the belt - no screws or anything. I suggest that you put the belt around the drum first, then the drive motor. You will have slack in the belt and it becomes a little more obvious how the idler pulley (which is mounted on spring steel) goes in and takes up that slack and keeps modest tension on the belt. The rubber side of the belt goes against the drum, the leathery side is the outside.
All Instructions for the KGYS750GQ1
31-45 of 1,431