Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Fridge had a clicking noise
Unscrew decorative plastic cover. Unsnap old damper assembly and disconnect wire connector. Snap in the new assembly and plug in the wires. Replace decorative cover.
Removed old ice maker by removing 3 screws, unplugged wiring harness. Replaced with new ice maker, placed three screws back to secure the ice maker, plugged wire harness back, and product is working well at this time.
Pan is easy part, fan motor assembly is appliance orgami
Remove back cover Remove drip thing from top to tray in the back Remove fan motor assembly. This is squirrely. Top bends towards you, bottom pushes in to the unit. Not fun. CAREFULLY remove copper tube that rests on drip tray Remove tray - there are clips in the front that get released by screwdriver Clean up Replace new tray Replace copper tube Play with fan motor assembly till it fits. It doesn't look like it's gonna work until it does. See youtube videos on this. Replace drip thing from top to tray - I forgot this one the first time. Replace cover.
This is a simple, but squirrely, repair. Right on the border of easy (because so few tools and steps) and A Bit Difficult because of the patience required.
removed the freezer door, removed the two shelves and removed three screws from the icemaker, unplugged the wiring harnest. Installed the new icemaker in reverse procedure.
Very easy to fix . It was harder to empty the contents out or the refrigerator than to repair . The diagrams on this site were very helpful in identified the part. and it was delivered in 5 days.
I got really tired of taking food out covered in icicles and stabbing a huge block of ice out of the bottom. Turns out all he needed was a little wheel with cogs and I looked up the sticker model number on this site and clicked the part of the fridge. So simple, wish I would’ve done it sooner.
Once the part arrived, which was very quickly BTW..all I had to do was remove the old filter and then just screw the new one into place....Now I just happen to be both female and blonde but was able to get the job done in less than 15 minutes (that includes opening the box) and with very little water dripping from the old filter!!! Looks like I could work as the Maytag repair woman soon!!
Remove the 2 screws that secure the flipper seal to the door. Slide the entire flipper seal up approximately 3/8ths of an inch. Disconnect wire connection. Reverse procedure to reinstall. Be sure flipper seal is pushed down enough to align screw holes before trying to reinstall the 2 screws.
AS PER A VERY GOOD VIDEO I FOUND SIMPLY BY SEARCHING FOR THE PART NUMBER. IT MAY HAVE BEEN ON THIS SITE. SADLY, THE PUSHING ON THE CONNECTOR WITH THE 1/2" WRENCH LOOKED A LOT EASIER IN THE VIDEO, OTHERWISE EASY PEAZY AND I HAVE VERY PAINFUL ARTHRITIS IN MY SHOULDERS.
I first removed the door to the freezer (my frig has a bottom freezer) by loosening the 4 screws and lifting the door up and off. Then, because I'm stubborn, I chose not to remove either of the basket/drawers. It took a little bit of effort to fit my arms/hands in there, but I was able to remove the bottom screw to the old icemaker, and loosen the two top screws. (And disconnect the wiring harness.) I could then lift the old icemaker up and off. Putting the new icemaker in was pretty easy-- just slide it down over the two top screws and connect the wiring harness. The hardest part was getting the bottom screw back in! Because I didn't remove the baskets/drawers, I had very little room to work, and I had to "feel" for where that bottom screw went (even used a little mirror to help me). I could have just left this screw out, as the icemaker was sitting in there quite securely. But I kept at it, and after about 20 minutes, I was able to line up the screw with the hole, balanced on the tip of the screwdriver, and get it screwed in. Total repair took about 45 minutes. And no more leaky ice maker!
Left door flap loose and door flap does not catch stop at top to close
There have been two problems with closing the left door.
First, the flap did not engage with the stop at the top of the cabinet and so the door did not close properly. Fixed this by adding a shim to the cabinet stop to lower it by about 3/16 of an inch.
The second problem was that the left door flapper had somehow gotten loose from its lower plastic clip. The solution to this was simply to remove the single screw in the flapper in the center where the electrical connector is, then re-attach the flapper with both clips properly engaged, and replace the screw to hold things fast..