KEYS850GQ0 KitchenAid Dryer - Instructions

Watch the video you sent me, and every thing fell into place

I reviewed the on-line video (which was very good by the way) and read the instructions that came with the thermal cut-off kit. Replacement of the upper thermostat was a piece of cake, very straight-forward; just remove the old & replace with the new. The instructions for replacing the lower thermostat were a little confusing because my dryer did not have the orange wire coming from the wiring harness, but after looking carefully at the old thermostat and how it was connected, I finally figured out how the jumper wire was to be connected and successfully installed the lower unit. Bottom line...the dryer works like new. Much cheaper than calling the repairman! Thanks PartSelect!

I watched to replacement video from the website and followed. I did use the tip of a small knife to get the connector to come loose on the old switch. It was a really easy repair.

What a pain in the butt to route the belt thru the tensioner! There's room for only one hand in there. The guys who do this for a living must have some secret. My solution was to drill a 3/16 hole thru the side, make a j-hook from 8-32 threaded rod, use that and a wing nut to pre-load the tensioner, route the belt, then slowly back off the wing nut until the belt was tight. It works. . . .

first I unplugged the dryer. Then I removed the back of the dryer with a 1/4" nut driver. with the back off using the same 1/4" nut driver I removed the one screw that holds the cycling t-stat slowly remove the t-stat and take one wire off at a time and plug it onto the new t-stat once all wires are replaced. place the t-stat back in and secure with the screw. Then put the back of the dryer back on. put the dryer vent hose back on. plug in and away you go. repair done. If that doesn't fix it. Then the next step is probably to check the gas valve coils. That is a little more difficult repair but not to hard.

Pop off the top , Then one screw holds each side . slide belt around drum and then preload tensioner as per instructions . Simple!

I tested heating coil and it was good so I replaced sensors and now works like new again. And while I was at it I cleaned out my dryer vent.

replace the burnt fuse.

After reviewing a variety of online instructional videos I was able to figure out how to remove the top ("hood") panel of dryer to access the door switch. Once I had access the switch was relatively simple to replace.

Replacing the cycling thermostat went really fast and easy. Unplug the dryer. Remove the 6-8 hex-head screws holding the back panel in place. The thermostat location is in the lower left. below the black discharge air duct. Note the location and/or tag the wires connected to it. Pull off the wires and remove the screw holding the thermostat in place and remove it. Reverse the procedure for installation of the new thermostat. Where this got tricky was it did not solve the problem. A strict diagnosis based on the electrical schematic alone would have, and did, indicate a faulty thermostat, i.e. on that was not opening. However, what I found was surprising. The heating element coil had broken and part of it had "welded" to the casing, grounding it and effectively turning the 240V heater into a 120V heater. This allowed the heater to provide heat (low heat). However, the timer motor needs 240V to operate and since one leg of the heater was grounded the timer could not get 240V when the thermostat cycled off. Replacing the heating element solved the problem.

I just followed the instructions on the video. The only helpful addition I have...make sure the power is off before you start. I did get that point when the video said to turn the power back on, at the end of the video. In all...a great experience and I saved more than $200.00 doing it myself, with the help of the FANTASTIC web site at PartSelect!

After removing the back, I realized I absolutely did not know what I was doing. I went to google put in my model number, and went to your web page. The rest is history. Went to the video watched it and went back to the dryer and after cleaning up the back, put it back and removed the top and front as per video. The parts came in a few days and replaced the belt and idler arm n about 2 min. I am not kidding. The wife held the drum while I put the front back on. One thing I could not separate the door switch so I just unscrewed it from the fron panel. The dryeris 20 years old, and your web page will put the Maytag repairman on the unemployment line.

Watched the repair video once, it was real informative and easy to follow. The repair took about 30 minutes to complete. The video went step by step. Had no problems what so ever. Made the reapir and turned the dryer on and let it run for a few minutes and once again had all the heat I needed to make it operate correctley. I recomend that once you see your dryer is not dring your clothes like it once did, replace these parts. I let this go on for a year thinking my wife was putting way to many clothes in the dryer. It was not that at all. No telling how much money we could have saved on our electric bill by replacing these parts sooner. $30 dollars for the parts, I bet we spent that much a week on extra drying cycles. What used to take 2-3 cycles to dry now only takes one cycle. Runs just like it did when we purchased it.I will buy from this site again, easy to use all the information you need to make the repair and prompt shipping. Awesome site.

I follow the instructions from the video sent to me with the email to tell me my new belt was shipped. Made the whole job go a easy as could be. Parts Select made fixing my dryer so simple and I also got the belt within 2 days. I recommend buying parts only from you! Glenn

Unplugged power cord, removed back cover, checked heating element and all the thermostats. Found one with no continuity and replaced it.