KEYL507WWH0 KitchenAid Dryer - Instructions

I first came to the internet to resolve what was wrong. After finding the video I thought was correct I started. I used my volt/ohm meter to check the thermal fuse as instructed on the video and that was the problem. I ordered the new thermal fuse from PartSelect late in the day and it was in my hands the next evening. With in 20 minutes the dryer was doing what it was suppose to do. The hardest part was getting the back cover of the crier off and that wasn't to bad.

first I took a flat head screw driver to pop the top of the dryer open, and then removed the screws from the lint tray. Next I lifted the lip back making sure it was supported by the wall behind. Third I removed the front of the unit by removing the bolts attached on both ends of the top of the unit. I then opened the door and removed the screws on the right top side of the lining of the door to the switch. Then I carefully held onto the tub while lifting the front face of the unit to remove the face of the dryer. After carefully removing the face I released the tub and set it aside. Then I picked up the tension pulley set it back in its slot followed by placing the belt rib side down around the tub. Next step was to place the tub back in the unit making sure the felt was in place and then I ran the belt back through the tension pulley applying tension in order to get the belt back onto the motor making sure the ribs of the belt aligned up with the ribs on the motors belt drive wheel. After completing that I then grabbed the front panel of the dryer unit and gently replaced the panel making sure that the slots and hooks lined up while placing the tub back in alignment of front panel. Once that was complete I replaced the screws in the door switch followed by replacing the bolts in the inside of the top comer of the front panel till hand tight. Last but not least I slid the lint tray back in place in order to make sure screws did not fall in to the hole the lint tray occupies. After replacing the screws I then plugged in the dryer gave the tub a few spins with my hand to make sure it was in place correctly I gave it a test drive by leaving the door open and pressing the door switch shutting off the light in the unit so it since the door was shut and turn the unit on for a cycle for at least one minute to see if the tub rolled freely on its own. All was good and only took 12 minutes to change and replace part. Easley can be done by any DIY first timers. Me I work with all kinds of units but the older units are easy and no need for a tech I promise.

I'd replaced the heating element on this dryer before, and I figured that was the same issue this time; however, once I opened the element container, I found no broken wire in the element. I verified this by a continuity test. So, it had to be either the fuse or the thermostat. I ordered the thermal cut-off kit, which had both the fuse and high limit thermostat and I replaced them by removing the wiring, then removed the devices (a couple of screws on each). Since I had the kit already, I just replaced them both. I'd replaced the heating element when I was inside the first time. After replacing the back of the drier, I reinstalled the vent pipe (which was the most difficult part) and returned the dryer to its closet. The dryer immediately started up and heated. I've replaced the element twice before (easy job) but this time I also had to replace a bad fuse/thermostat. After 20 years of service, I figure somethings just wear out, and it's usually the element. Now it had a new fuse and thermostat, too.

After I watched the video I read other people's repairs and used both to get the belt changed.The dryer is old, I believe it is from the 70's. We took the front off and then laid the dryer on its back for easier access, looped the belt as described on the video, turned the drum counter clock-wise and then reattached the front. It was very simple thanks to the video and other people's suggestions. Dryer works great and very happy it turned out to be an easy fix.

The dryer opens up pretty easily; there are two screws holding the lint filter housing to the top panel that must be removed before the top will come up. The top panel pops open by prying it up with a screw driver. Once it's off there are two screws inside near the top that hold the upper front panel to the sides. There are also two screws that need to be loosened, but not removed, at the very bottom of the upper front panel, accessed by removing the lower front panel which is also popped out by prying (the upper part of the lower panel is pulled straight out, and is held to the bottom of the unit by hinge-like clips). Once the upper front panel is wriggled back the drum will slump off but stay pretty much in place while you set the panel aside (it has an electrical lead that goes to the door-closed sensor, but if you pop its clips loose in a couple spots you'll have enough slack to set it to the side). The drum pulls off easily. You might want to take a photo of the belt/pulley arrangement underneath it before removing everything, as it is not intuitively obvious how the belt runs thru the pulleys. Once the drum is gone vacuum up all that accumulated lint, then pop off the metal clips that hold the motor on. I was surprised at how little holds that motor on; apparently it's enough. Here is where I ran into my one snag: I couldn't unscrew the blower wheel from the motor shaft, and you have to get that fan off to get the motor out. You're supposed to clamp a wrench on the plastic fan just inside the dryer housing, and unscrew it by turning the shaft from the other side. No go. I eventually drilled a sequence of holes into the plastic around the metal shaft (easy) and could pull the motor out, but of course now I needed a $20 fan replacement. The motor and fan showed up in 2-3 days. Unfortunately, the motor came with a pulley that needed a narrower drive belt than my original. I guess I could have cut the original down, but i just went ahead and ordered a new one ($12). Everything went back together surprisingly easily. Getting the new fan on was much easier than getting that old one off.

Ordered the kit for my dryer. Popped off the front access panel and 4 screws later, dryer works perfectly. 28 dollars plus shipping and fixed. Great OEM parts and fast shipment from Peoria. Recommended.

take two phillips srews out of lint catch frame. next take a screw driver pry up front top part on dryer.lean back top out of way.take two screws out of top of dryer door. disconnect electrical connection dryer door frame.and pull frame upward and off. you will see roller bracket with end made to put in slott. put it in first slott under belt motor.take belt and pull it through under roller and hook it with screwdriver to motor pulley.by putting the tip of screwdriver on motor pulley with belt on screwdriver and lift up until belt slides on to pulley. make sure you put belt around barrel. before putting belt through roller bracket and on to motor pulley.and use something to put under barrel so it will not get in the way and fall off.

I checked the site, diagnosis - need thermal fuse and it suggested replacing thermostat as well. Viewed the video. Removed dryer hose. Used a 1/4 hex socket to remove screws from back of dryer, removed the screw from thermal fuse pulled out the fuse; inserted the new ones wires to prongs and screwed it back in. I did the same thing with the cycling thermostat. Terrific while I was in there; vacuumed all the dust out. Screwed the back on, put the vent hose on. $36...Very Happy!!! Also, viewed their video to access drum. Fixed the floppy fin inside dryer and vacuumed arount drum as well! BTW....I am a 65 year old woman!!! A very happy one! The initial job was about 20 min...doing vacuuming and drum repair was a lot longer as I had to hunt down washers to put on one of the fins so it wouldn't keep moving. Cleaning the fin of debri and lining it up etc Total time: maybe an hour and a half. TIP: People should wash their lint filters at LEAST once a year! Helps prevent overheating and fires! Thank you Part Select! Linda :)

unplugged unit, removed the back panel replace thermo fuse and replace back panel, plugged electric cord back in and we were back in business. real easy fixx

I found on youtube that there are directions to repair. Dryer problems are usually one of three things, the door switch being one of them. i checked this last (should have been first). ordered the part( about 65% off sear's cost) and it came in one day! It went on really easy as long as you knew from repair video how to access inside. almost spent $400.00 on a new one.

quite simply I followed the path that was worn from years of use. it was very apparent the belt had broke. along with the belt there was a generic diagram for proper install. this was very helpful

I followed the video on the website, removing the back of the dryer, then located and removed the thermal fuse, replaced it with the new one..... Presto, it worked... Replaced the back of the dryer and was good to go... Thank you Part Select

replaced thermo fuse. not the problem. not sure how to test for next step. timer, cycler tumbler all work just won't fire up.

Opened dryer top, disconnected door wireing, took off front panel, laid dryer on back, cleaned out lint and inside, put new belt on, and put parts back together. Dryer works fine now.

bought thermal fuse and thermostat as most likely. Took apart and checked with voltmeter and found the fuse open. Replaced it. Video instructions are helpful as is the part location in the drawings. Real problem was lint had built up in back vent area, blocking cooling/ burner intake air. Went through entire dryer and vacuumed it out