KEYE950VWH0 KitchenAid Dryer - Instructions

I am one Happy Gal.....Looked to fix,thought about just buying a new dryer..In the end talked to the local repair guy...said I could do it myself. (why pay him)..I live in small town.Ordered your part,watched the video and did it...Saved myself over $500, plus the $125 for delivery.for that new dryer..(Small town in the forest!)Very easy to install....Hope to use this dryer for many months perhaps years..It is 30 years old! Works like a champ! Thank You!

just took off the front panel took off the belt and replaced it with the new one we watched the video pretty easy

Diagnosed the problem on parts select, ordered the part and watched the youtube video on how to install and done! Super easy - thanks for boosting my "chicks can fix anything" mojo and saving me a bunch of $$.

More time troubleshooting than repairing. Used online help for narrowing down problem to the thermal cut-off unit. Had to remove front lower cover, remove wire sets from heating element,remove element from dryer. Then it was a simple swap out of the two relays/thermistors, and put it all back together again. Unit worked as designed after repair.

Saw no heat, web said probably the fuse. Replaced the fuse. Nope. Second guess was the thermostat at the exhaust. Replaced that. Nope. Finally got to actively troubleshooting and isolated one of the thermostats near the heating element. Replaced that and everything is fine. So now I have a good spare fuse and thermostat for the next repair. There was one tool I wished I had, a socket small enough to open the back. I had to use pliers and that was a pain. Other than that the repair was almost trivial, just unplug the bad one and plug in the good one.

Removed back panel of the dryer and located the thermal fuse. Disconnected two wires, and removed one screw holding the fuse in place. Installed new fuse and reassembled. Dryer works like a champ again.

Disconnect the power cord. Unhook the dryer vent hose. Remove the back. Find the Thermal Fuse. Use a ratchet and socket to remove socket head screw that holds the Thermal Fuse in place. Disconnect one of the two wires from the old Thermal Fuse and attach the wire to the new Thermal Fuse ensuring the wire is placed on the same end of the new Thermal Fuse as the old Thermal Fuse. Repeat procedure for the remaining wire and screw Thermal Fuse back in place. Replace the back, reattach the dryer vent hose and connect the power cord.

The on-line instructions were excellent; however, the man doing the demonstration used a brand new machine - not one where the old seals had melted and dried out and required serious cleaning before attaching the new seals. The new seals went on easily and I am very happy with everything about this task. I am also glad I now know what that lint chute looks like, so I'll do a better job of keeping it clean in the future.

Pulled up a You-Tube vid on how to install the belt. Went perfect.

I knew I needed a thermostat. So that part of the repair was my contribution.

i first watched a video on U-Tube and did exactly as they did. removed screws from the lint tray, pried up the top panel of the dryer with my putty knife, unscrewed the 2 hex screws at the top, disconnected the plug for the dryer door,and installed the new belt it really was pretty easy. the only thing I would recomend would be when installing the belt put towel or anything that would protect your arm from the botttom piece of sheet metal. I got a pretty good cut on my forearm while I was putting the belt on the bottom pully.

As described by the video, I removed the front cover after I unpluged the electric plug. Pulled all the wires from the cutoff-TML. Removed the cover of the heating element(one screw). Removed the heating element housing(2 screws). Removed the cutoff-TML from the heating element housing(2 parts, 4 screws). Replaced the cutoff-TML(3screws). Returning the heating element housing to its place was somewhat difficult, it took few tries.Then reattached the wires on the new cutoff-TML.Returned the cover of the heating element. I pluged the electrical plug. Turned the dryer on high for 3 minuts and watched the heating element getting hot. At last I returend the front cover.

after using a meter to determine the thermal cut-off was bad and ordering the part, it only too about ten to fifteen minutes to repair. used a nut driver to remove the bag cover to expose the thermal cut-off. removed the wires and the screws from the parts. screwed the new parts on. replaced the wires. turned the dryer on to make sure it worked (heat came out). replaced the cover. set back in place and it works great

First unplug the unit. Take the lint filter out and remove the two Phillips-head screws at the edge of the opening. Then using the putty knife to unlatch the top panel of the dryer, insert it into the seam on the front about 3" from each side. When you feel the knife up-against the latch, apply a little inward pressure with the knife and pull up on the top panel. When you release both sides the panel, it will lift up and back against the wall(secure it so it doesn't fall forward while you are doing this repair). Looking down on the right-front corner you will find a connection for the door switch, Dis-connect it. Just below that connection, on the inside, is a 5/16" screw that holds the front panel on, take that one and another one just like it on the left side, out and the front will fall forward about an inch and then you will lift up on the panel while holding drum in place. Inspect the clips that hold the bottom of the panel on and be aware how the panel attaches to them. Try to keep the drum in place and set the front panel off to the side so you can easily grab it to put it back on. Looking under the drum remove the belt and idler pulley. The pulley is usually not in the position it should be in, it likes to fall over when it has no belt pressure on it. Hopefully you had already unpackaged the new belt and straightened it out. Loop the belt over the drum, rib side to the drum, and move it to where the old belt had been riding on the drum. Back under the drum, you should hold it in place with your shoulder, with idler pulley in hand-- install the idler pulley. There's probable a clean spot where the old one was and the humpback should point to the right side of the dryer. With right hand steadying the idler pulley, the left hand should pinch the belt together and feed it under the wheel and pull it out and hook it on the motor pulley. It may seem to be a tight fit but once its on you should be able grab the outside edge of the drum and slowly turn it without hearing any scraping noises. Double check that the belt isn't twisted. Before putting the front panel back on or if you had to take the drum out, make sure the felt seal on the back edge of the drum is not folded inward. the wheels that the drum roll on must be in the groove. Carefully reach to the back to check that they are in the groove of the drum. If everything seems to be in place, hold the drum with one hand and grab the front panel with other. Place the bottom of the panel against the unit and lift up about an inch and place the square holes at the bottom of the panel on the clips on the unit, it may take a couple of tries, then lean the panel forward making sure the drum goes around the felt seal on the panel. Once the panel is against the unit , install the two 5/16 screws securing the front panel to the unit. Turn the drum by hand to make sure drum was installed properly. Reconnect door switch. Lower top panel and push down to secure it. Install the two Phillips head screws at the edge of where the lint screen goes, install lent screen and plug the unit back into the wall socket.

put fuse back in