KEYE670BAL0 KitchenAid Dryer - Instructions

Could not be any easier. For less than $20 and 15 minutes time, I couldnt be happier.
All that was needed is a nutdriver to remove a 1/2 dozen screws to take the back panel off. Then a phillips screw driver to remove the thermal fuse. Unplug 2 wires and then attach them to the new fuse. Put it all back together and done!. Working dryer.
PS: I had enough gas line and ducting connected to the dryer ,so thatt I was able to get behind it with out removing them. This may have taken another 15 min. if I needed to do this and two adjustable wrenches.

Very easily replaced both parts. Works perfect!!

I lifted the top of the dryer. I unhooked the hangers from the door and took it off. I pulled the drum out, took the broken belt off, slid the new one around the outside middle of the drum, turning the rib side of the belt out,and ran the belt through the pulley attached to the bottom base of the dryer (tension pulley, right hand side), slid the drum back inside the dryer frame, reattached the door, closed and snapped the dryer lid and it worked great!!

Your customer service was great, but your video wasn't particularly helpful because of the extreme age of my dryer. For one thing, with these really old dryers, you don't have to slide the drum out at all; you just unscrew the front panel and slip the belt in that way. The printed diagram that came with the belt helped me figure how the belt slips through the pulley assembly, but the drawing could have been more clear. In spite of my bickering, I probably saved $50 fixing it myself.

Disconnect electric power, the top & cabinet are connected by 2 reusable locks about 4 inches from each front corner, use a thin flat putty knife or similar object, push inward on a lock while lifting gently on the front of the top piece, then let the top rest against the wall. ( a wire on each end of a safety switch for the dryer door may need disconnected) Remove a screw from each front corner of the cabinet, then pull upward on the loose front panel to access the drive motor, remove old belt. install new belt by lifting the front of the drum just high enough to allow the new belt, place groves of belt against the drum and around the motor pulley and belt tensioner, re-install cabinet front, (re-connect safety switch wires) return top and push down at cabinet locks.

I took one piece off at a Time. Made sure that each wire went to the correct place. I felt so good as a woman to be able to fix a necessity in our House without having to call a repairman to fix it for us. We are 3 women in our New Home. Im 46 My life partner is 48 and Our Daughter 17. I can't tell you how thankful i am for watching your video on how to do it. Thanks Part select. Dena , Ave & Fe .

I checked the thermal fuse for continuity and had none.ordered part arrived next day. I took a picture with phone to idenify wires. installed in a short time.dryer works like new

I watched the videos associated with the parts. They were easy to understand and I could follow the steps without difficulty. I replaced both the cycling thermostat and thermal fuse. Separately, I also replaced the "push-to-start" switch. Dryer would still not start. I called the repairman. Problem turned out to be a loose wire that had shorted out in the electrical bar near the "push-to-start" switch. All parts I replaced are determined to be good and will be tried next time I experience the dryer "not starting".

Unpluged dryer first! Diconnected the vent hose.Took out 9 screws out of back panel.1 screw for the thermal fuse disconnected the two wires. Put new one in connected the wires. Then took out 1 screw that held the thermostat in place took 4 wires off. Put new one in reconnected the wires. Vacuumed out the back. Put back panel on. Connected the vent hose, plugged the dryer in. Pushed the start button & started drying clothes. Very easy!

It was really easy I watched your video on how to do it the video went step by step and was very helpful

First I watched a instruction video online.. It made the job easy. I have done it before but I did not remember exactly how to proceed, After watching the video i knew exactly what screws needed to be removed and what tool I needed for each step. Anybody sees the video before tackling this job, they can't go wrong.

followed video on line

To make sure the dryer didn't die catastrophically, I checked to make sure the timer, the light, and the push to start start switch and the door switch were still working. After they were diagnosed to be working properly, I unplugged the dryer and pulled it back from the wall so I would have enough room to work behind it. The first item you will need is the wiring diagram. If you do not have one, one can be obtained online by using your dryer brand and model number. The next thing you will need is a quality digital multimeter that measures resistance or continuity. The last thing you will need is a 1/4" nutdriver. The first thing you will need to do is remove the exhaust tube from the back of the dryer. The second step is to remove a small black plate located near a green ground screw. The 3rd step is to remove the large black cover on the back of the dryer. Once this is removed, you will need to locate the thermal fuse. The thermal fuse is a small component that has 2 blue wires connected to it. It is located on the housing where the steam from your clothes leads to the exhaust port. The first thing you need to do is disconnect the 2 blue wires. Once the wires are disconnected, set the multimeter to resistance. The unit of resistance is ohms and the greek letter omega is used. The red lead of your multimeter goes one metal tabe of the fuse and the black lead goes on the other one. If the multimeter measures 0. L ohms, then the fuse is bad and needs to be replaced. If the multimeter reads 00.00 ohms then the fuse is good and you have another problem. I hope these instructions were useful.

The video help to give confidence to change out the components since they were so inexpensive and the alternative was to go out and buy a new dryer.. It was easy to remove the back panel off dryer (after unplugging from the wall of course). The two components were unscrewed, cables unattached using pliers and replaced. The faulty element was definitely an open thermal fuse. For some reason there was a 5 Ohm resistance when the cables were connected.. Which confused me at first as I thought the fuse was not blown. I guess there was some conductance across the cabinet body. Anyway after replacing the fuse and thermostat the dryer was back to fully operational. I think it now actually drys better than before but that may just be wishful thinking.

Open the top and replaced the switch bracket with the actuator lever then inserted new door catch.