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Outer circuit of Broil Element was open
I received the replacement broil element for my Kitchenaid model KESH307 range 34 hours after placing the order online with PartSelect.com! I had previously removed the old element and verified that the outer circuit was open. I did this without removing the oven door. I realized that to install the new element with the door on would require me to have 5 foot long arms and a very flexible 2 foot long neck.
Turns out there are at least 3 different styles of door mounting in the Kitchenaid line. I found the correct one for my range, and when the new element arrived, I had the door off in a jiffy. Enlisting my spouse to hold the oven door switch so as to keep the light off (It shown in my eyes.), I installed the new element with minimal difficulty. It took me about 20 minutes.
Thank you PartSelect for being there and for the really quick delivery.
Burned out heating element for radiant heat burner
I watched the video, purchased the correct heating element and did the repair as illustrated in the video. I simply removed the cook top, removed the ground wire, removed the wiring harness, removed the failed heating element, installed the new heating element and reinstalled the wiring. Piece of cake!
Remove three Phillips screws underneath front edge, raise front edge and lay it back on stovetop. Pull knob straight off, use pliers to loosen nut holding switch in place, remove nut. I took photos of the old switch with wires attached that also showed the numbers on the terminals in case I pulled off too many at once. The new switch isn't arranged the same as the old one, but follow the conversion table, and it will work fine. Remove and replace one wire at a time. When replacing the control panel don't try to just lay it flat and slide it back on -- it won't work. Easier if you hold it at about 90 degrees and pivot it back onto the rubber seal at the edge of the stovetop. Re-install the three screws, and you're done. The new switch fixed the problem perfectly. I took apart the old switch and found a broken metal piece inside, so I was confident this was the problem, and not some other component.
Sensor matched perfect, but had to pull large upper rear panel to find location. From there took a few minutes to reassemble back. Did not un hook gas but turned it off. Obviously unplugged power. Oven works fine.
The oven would bake for several minutes then turn its self off. It would not come back on until you reset it. The time varied from 10 to 15 minutes before turning off.
I took the back plate off of the oven by removing 3 screws and removed a single screw holding the sensor element in place, plugged the electrical 2 prong terminals back together and re-assembled the back of the oven. After the installation was completed we did a test run. It worked for aprox. 15 minutes and shut off again. It must have re-booted its self, cause when we tried it again it worked and still is working.
The Temperature Sensor was actually installed from the back of the oven. I had to remove about six(6) screws to remove a metal panel on the back of the stove. The connector the Temp sensor came with did not match the existing connector however it did come with wire nuts as an alternative. I cut the wires and connected them with the wire nuts and replaced the pannel. Very easy fix and my 13 year old oven still runs like new.
TURNED OFF THE POWER TO THE RANGE, DISCONNECTED THE ELECTRIC PLUG. I unscrewed the element attached to the oven, disconnected the connectors. Reconnected the element and screwed the part back to the oven. EASIER THEN I THROUGHT.
Broiler Element Had Cracked-No Heat To Inside Element
It was difficult to reach the back of the oven inside to remove screws. I had to use an extended socket with a bit tip. When I tried to remove the element from the clips, the clips slid back inside the insulation at the back of the oven. I had to take the back panel off of the oven, push the clips through the opening and then I used a bag clip to hold them so they would not slide back into the opening. I could not lift the door off-too heavy- to get closer to the back of the oven to put the clips and screws back on so I laid the oven on its back after putting the back cover on. The oven door was so heavy then that I had to prop the oven door open with my 24 inch rolling pin. I then leaned down into the oven and managed to get the clips and the screws back in. I then put the oven upright again, plugged it in, then had to re-level the whole thing. I turned it on and it worked. This probably would have been easier if I were not 65 years old and had some help. I was not giving up though. I got it done.
1st - Dual element always lit up both elements 2nd - hot LED always stayed lit
The burner infinte control switch was the same as the old one - just placed the wires in the same location - fixed the LED being on permanently. The dual serface element switch was a newer version. The difficultly i had was the connection labeling on the old switch. I was confusing the numbers with the wrong connections because the old switch had numbers where there were no connections, but I thought they went with two of my wires. I finally realized the wires went with the numbers on each side of the neutral. Ignore the numbers on each side, in the middle of the sides. Sorry, forgot the numbers and the switch is long gone in the trash.
Unscrew 3 screws across the front inside the oven door and the 2 screws on each side of the control panel. That allows for lifting the entire control panel from the front to access the switches from underneath. The old switch is held in place by the lug nut under the knob. Once removed, the 5 wires can be disconnected (carefully noting which wire connects to which terminal). The new switch is then connected, and then fastened back into place with the lug nut. The control panel is then re-secured by the five screws
