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KECC508GWH1 KitchenAid Cooktop - Instructions

All Instructions for the KECC508GWH1
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Replace old Element
The new element wiring placements were totally different from the old element. Lucky for me the lettering printed on the terminals for each pole was the same as on the old one. It was just a matter of matching up each terminal pole lettering. The instructions that came with the new element were of no help at all. Youtube was my best helper.
Parts Used:
Dual Surface Element - 2500w/1200w
  • Patricia Josephine from N RICHLND HLS, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
1 person found this instruction helpful.
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Old dual burner lost one half. It appeared the metal strip that wound into and around the circle, broke right where it came into the inside of the entrance, and I wasn't about to try and break everything open to try and fix it, as it didn't look like soldering would be easy, or that it would fix it.
Verified via ohmmeter that one of the two burners was open and not working. I also tested the switch and that appeared to be working okay. I then took out the old unit and compared it to the new one, and found that they upgraded the new unit. I followed the instructions to match the labeled parts and move the wire to the newer location of that. i.e the old one had 2B and 2A at the top and 1B and 1A at the bottom. The new one had 2B and 1B at the top and 2A and 1A at the bottom. It did come with wire extenders and insulated tubes on top of them, and extra to cover additional. After a couple of tries, I decided which wire I needed to use on which (small connectors to match small, and large to match large.) In a second try I decided to flip it over to have it face up instead of down. Overall, it worked out very well, and I was very pleased when I did the power up test and everything worked as desired.
Parts Used:
Dual Surface Element - 2500w/1200w
  • Chris from WHEATON, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
1 person found this instruction helpful.
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Elements burned wouldn't heat
First I cut electric power off removed the two screws that hold glass top lifted up and removed two screws that hold element in place. I disonnected the wires and then pulled the element out
Parts Used:
Element with Limiter 6 Inch - 1200W
  • Jaime from Deltona, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
3 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
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bad burner
My dual zone burner would trip my breaker anytime i tried to turn it on. All the other burners would work fine. I searched online and found a way to test my burner, which was shorted or grounded out. I purchased a new burner from the site...It was as cheap or cheaper than other sites. It showed up a few days quicker than i was expecting..I also replaced the switch to the burner, just as a precaution and to save time since i already had the top glass off of my burners....EASY JOB!
Parts Used:
Dual Surface Element - 2500w/1200w
  • Krystal from Centralia, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
1 person found this instruction helpful.
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I snapped a bolt on the main power terminal block when connecting the pigtail.
Removed the small metal panel covering the main power terminal in back of the electric range. Removed the nuts holding the red, white and black electrical wires from the range using the appropriate socket (there will be two nuts on each bolt end). Removed the two screws holding the main power terminal block with appropriate screw driver. Connect the new main power terminal block to the range using the two screws. Reconnect the red, black and white electrical wires coming from the range using one nut for each wire. IMPORTANT: do no over tighten the nuts because the bolts could snap. Reconnect the pigtail and secure the small metal panel covering the main power panel.
Parts Used:
Main Power Terminal Block
  • Frank from Palm Coast, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
3 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
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wire came loose and shorted out
Ordering the part online was easy. It arrived in a timely manner. I found a terrific video online showing how to install the terminal. It was so easy. Thank you for the great instructional video.
Parts Used:
Main Power Terminal Block
  • Elizabeth from HOUSTON, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
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Block broke
Unplug power cord, remove wires from block. take 2 screws out. replace with new block about 15 mins. Done
Parts Used:
Main Power Terminal Block
  • Edward from Crimora, VA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
1 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
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the burner didn't work and digital part too
I used the digital multimeter for measure the voltage in the burner and in the digital part,I saw the electric cables
Parts Used:
Burner Element - Right Front
  • Eduardo from Lenexa, KS
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Wrench set
7 of 23 people found this instruction helpful.
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cleaner
just needed clearner for the top of my glass top, the operator was very helpful I received my clearniner in 7 days thank you
Parts Used:
Cooktop Cleaner
  • Mary from Duarte, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
0 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
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The left rear burner had stopped heating.
1. I ordered a replacement heater element from Parts Select, which arrived in just 3 days at my home. 2. I turned off the main circuit breaker to the range. 3. There are two small sheet metal screws inside the top left and right side of the oven door frame which need to be removed first in order to lift and remove the burner top from the range. 4. After lifting and pulling the burner top toward me about 6 inches, I unplugged the left and right burner assembly wiring harness connectors. 5. I lifted the burner top assembly off the stove and turned it upside down an a table. 6. There are six sheet metal screws that need to be removed to allow the sheet metal panel holding the heater assemblies to be lifted off and then also set upside down on a table top. All five burner elements are now visible. 7. Disconnect the slip-on electrical connectors to the specific heater assembly that is defective. 8. Unscrew the three small sheet metal screws from the three spring clips that support the heater assembly on the sheet metal panel; re-attach the spring clips to the new heater assembly. NOTE: Either memorize or record the position numbers that are cast into the ceramic housing of the burner to replace the new burner in exactly the same position. 9. Insert the three spring clips back into the sheet metal panel where the old, defective burner assembly had been removed. 10. Re-connect the slip-on wire clips to the new heater assembly in the same position as they were removed from the defective heater assembly. 11. Turn over the sheet metal panel with the burner assemblies attached and replace the sheet metal screws holding the panel to the stove top. 12. Turn over the stove top assembly and set back onto the range allowing space to reach to the back and re-connect the polarized connectors to the left and right side burners. 13. Slide the stove top back to the rear and carefully lower the front edge back down with the two metal tabs inserted back into the oven door frame. 14. Re-install the two sheet metal screws that hold down the stove top. 15. Turn on the main circuit breaker to the range. 16. Carefully test the new heater assembly by turning the range control knob to LO heat and watch for the stove top burner to momentarily turn red with heat. 17. Turn off the range control knob. 18. You are finished. It was a very easy installation.
Parts Used:
Element with Limiter 6 Inch - 1200W
  • Louis from Morgan, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Surface element with limiter 6", 1200W was burned out
Removed the two screws, on both sides of the oven wall corner. Gently lift the front end of the glass top and pull towards me and disconnect the two electrical sockets. Carried the glass top assembly on the kitchen table and turned upside down. Removed the six screws. Removed the assembly from the glass top. Turn the top burners assembly over and disengaged the two clips of the burned out burner from the assembly plate. Transferred the two clips to the new burner on the exact locations like the old ones were. I have placed the new burner on the location and snapped the clips on the slots. Removed the connectors one piece at a time and connected to the new burner. Reversed the previous disassembly and all was done Works like a charm. Thank you all for assisting me in providing the necessary parts and video instructions. It was a lot cheaper than to buy a new range.
Parts Used:
Element with Limiter 6 Inch - 1200W
  • Tevfik from Naugatuck, CT
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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Duel Burner , Inside Burner Out
Removed burned out burner, replaced new burner tested works fine
Parts Used:
Dual Surface Element - 2500w/1200w
  • ROBERT from MOSINEE, WI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
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RIght rear burner on glasstop range stopped working
Cut power to range in breaker panel. Then removed two screws (1/4" nutdriver) or phillips head just under top in front. No need to move range out from wall. Once those two screws were out, I lifted the top carefully (since wires are attached to back of range) and propped it up with a piece of spare lumber I had lying around. Then removed two screws holding right rear burner, and doing one wire at a time, pulled the wires from bad burner and reattached wires to new burner. Oh, I did need some pliers to pull the wires from the old burner; they were on real tight. ALSO, the old burner had a series of numbers around it. I quickly learned that these helped you line up the burner correctly. So I noted the numbers with the screw holes in the old burner and made sure I used the same number holes in the new burner. Once new wires were attached, I attached the new burner, aligning the same hole numbers as the removed burner, and everything lined up perfectly. Two screws were inserted to hold the burner. I lowered the top and reinserted the two screws under the front of the top and I was done. Total time was about 13 to 14 minutes. Honestly, very easy. Plus prior to me taking on the project, I had called a Maytag repair shop, who said their fee was $99, plus parts, plus any extra time required for labor, but the latter was not likely something that typically occured.
Parts Used:
Element with Limiter 6 Inch - 1200W
  • Gerald from Hedgesville, WV
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers
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no problem
i did fine
Parts Used:
Element with Limiter 6 Inch - 1200W
  • clarence from norwalk, CT
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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Surface element was out
Disconnect the power.took the cooktop off the range. Turned it over. Removed the underside plate. Disconnected the bad element. Pluged inthe new element. Replaced the under plate. Reconnected the range to the stovetop .put cooktop in place. Reattached screws. Turned on power. Worked perfectly.
Parts Used:
Element with Limiter 6 Inch - 1200W
  • Veronica from Midlothian, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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All Instructions for the KECC508GWH1
31 - 45 of 64