KEBS177DBL8 KitchenAid Wall Oven - Instructions

First we watched a YouTube on how to replace the thermostat. It was easy to turn off the circuit breaker. It was a little tricky to pull the range away from the wall and then we were able to unplug. Because our range is a dual fuel model, the back had a lot more screws to remove to get to the thermostat because there were covers over a lot of wires and the gas line I presume. However, we did get off the 12 or so screws with a regular screw driver. We easily located the thermostat and quickly realized that the two screws holding the thermostat in place were neither flat head nor phillips. We were able to remove one of them and merely twisted it sideways, installed the new thermostat with one screw and attached the wires. When we flipped the circuit breaker and plugged in the over, Voila, it worked. The hardest part was getting all the covers off the back. I hope it doesn't happen again because this was an expensive replacement part.

Installed a new thermostat and noticed the convection heating element wire had burned in two. Ordered new element and installed. Oven is currently working properly again.

ordered new broiler pan

Unplug power cord, remove wires from block. take 2 screws out. replace with new block about 15 mins. Done

Simple - Removed oven door attached retainer with screw.Re attached door.

Whirlpool wanted three time the cost of the same parts The only shipping option was Fedex Overnight which was very costly.

Your prices are great "Parts Select".

Jan

Unwrapped the package, plugged the probe into the oven, stuck the other end into the chicken.

I first removed the door from the front of the oven according to instructions that I found on the Internet from others that have had similar problems. I then removed a total of 8 screws - 4 that were holding the door together, and 2 each for the two hinges that I replaced. After replacing the hinges, I re-installed the 4 screws and then guided the oven door back into place. It took probably about 20 minutes from start to finish, and the news hinges that I purchased solved the problem perfectly.

Did not want to remove the pin from the new hinges, so found a proper rod and cut off two half inch pins to use in removing the door. followed the manual instructions. Took all of the screws out but did not notice that the four inside face screws were machine screws while all others were sheet metal screws. Had a little difficulty in getting the four machine screws to engage the bottom holes of the new hinges. Reinstalled the door and all works fine. It is too bad that we could not purchase just a new hinge spring instead of the entire unit. It is kind of a waste. I suspect that self cleaning ovens generate a very high heat which eventually weakens the hinge. The upper oven will likely fail in the future, but at least I know how to repair it.

My story isn't so much about the repair but the fine service from part select. My 1st order was lost at delivery at our house. Part select quickly corrected the mishap with no issues. This kind of service is much appreciated.

I went to the source of power on the stove and noticed one of the terminals had come loose from the terminal block and had shorted out against the cover of the terminal junction. After prying the loose terminal off cover I ordered new terminal block and received it the 2nd day. I removed the old terminal block and replaced the part in about 10 minutes..Thank you Parts Select for your easy to find diagrams and quick delivery.

Like others said, the trick was getting the oven door off. If you don't have the instructions, here's how: Open the door all the way. Shine a flashlight on the hinge, and you will see an open hole about 3/16" diameter below the hingepin and toward the oven. With the door open, put a 5/32" allen wrench or any other comparably-sized metal pin into the hole in each hinge. With the pins in place, close the door as far as it will go, which is almost but not quite fully closed. Put one hand under the door handle, the other hand under the bottom of the door, and pull the bottom of the door down and out. With maybe a little wiggling, it will come right out. That's really all there is to it! Taking out all the glass layers is straightforward; you don't need any instructions to see how to do it.

By reversing the way I removed the door hinges from the frame, per the reinstall instructions. I called the 800# and they emailed me a diagram, but the hinges depicted were different than mine. When my back feels better, I'll keep trying.

I looked up the meaning of the error codes and determined that the temp sensor was malfunctioning. Looked on line for a sensor and found what I thought was the right one and ordered it from PartSelect. The sensor arrived three days later and I removed the old sensor (with some difficulty I might add). Then I discovered the connector did not match. I called PartSelect and found out that the sensor connectors had changed since the oven was built and that an after-market sensor with the right connector was available. I ordered the new one, returned the wrong one and the new one arrived three days later. I popped it in and now I have a working oven.

turned breaker switch off. unscrewed the oven from the cabinet. lifted the oven out of the cabinet (heavy & awkward, needed an extra pair of hands). removed back panel. replaced fuse. reassembled everything. this is the second time i've had to replace the thermo fuse (oven blows the fuse when set to clean). first time i replaced the fuse it took about two hours. second time it about an hour.

parts arrived in 3 days along with easy to follow instructions. could not have been easier...made kitchen aid look like a class of clowns...