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broken inner glass from upper oven
Sorry but that would take too long to give all instructions, but I will mention that there were four glass plates if you count the cover of the door which is a large glass piece. All glass plates had to be taken out or off including the holder hardware in order to get to the inner glass (about 15 screws in all). No you-tube videos seemed to apply directly for this door. Taking some pics and using a card to hold screws in the pattern they were taken out helped keep the in order to be replaced (I screwed the screws into a paper sheet to keep the pattern with some labeling like top, bottom, etc). Lower glass door appears to only have two glass plates (didn't take it apart, but inner glass holders were not seen when peering in through the inner glass as they are in the upper door). If the inner glass plate on this door gets broken it should be easier. The glass was broken for some time before this repair so there was a lot of cleaning required inside the door. Oh, by the way, when taking out the door off pull out (not up) after locks are released and when the door is mostly closed. Push back in and open door down a bit to lock back in place. This is far from complete but I hope it helps some.
I was trying to remove the oven door so I could clean the glass. Spills had run down between the layers of glass.
This oven probably was manufactured in the '60s when the house was built. The door doesn't just pull off like the newer models. These pins fit into small holes on the oven hinges. I inserted the pins and lifted the door to a 45 degree angle, before pulling the door completely off. Now that turned out to be the easy part. I then proceeded to completely dismantle the door. It actually has 4 glass layers which had to be cleaned individually. The hardest part of all was actually remembering how to put it back together again. I put the door back on just as I had removed it, then took out the pins, and I was finally done! This was not an easy project, BUT the results look great.
Originally ordered just the spring assuming that might be it and it was the cheapest way. However after getting in I found that the latch assembly had a broken 'tit' that is intended to hold the metal latch in place as it moves. Attempted to glue w/ epoxy but as i expected there was too much pressure to hold it in place. So....ordered the assembly.
TURN OFF BREAKER.....
1) Remove the two side rails by removing screw on the inside bottom of rails. 2) It helps to remove the door to get it out of your way but not required. To do this open door fully and insert two nails or similar into holes on each hinge. Close the door until the hinge contact nails. Lift the door up and out. 3) remove the top control panel by removing screw on either side (outside of oven)and screws on the underside of panel behind upper door. 4) It help to completely remove the panel to have more room to work but not required. If you do it is a good idea to photo the cable locations so it is easy to recall where they go. For the most part they only fit one location but always a good idea. 5) remove the latch by removing all spade connectors and two screws in front. 6) place new latch and reassemble.
After turning of the breaker for the oven, I pulled out the oven, removed the back panel. The High-Temp thermal cutoff was attached to 2 wires, which I unplugged, and then removed the cutoff by removing two screws. I then replaced the part in reverse order, pushed the oven back into the cabinet, and turned the breaker back on.
Easily, Removed the oven with help of my grandson, this model is quite heavy. Open the back cover panel, removed the old blower. replaced with the new blower, covered with the back protective panel. About one hour because some screws much harder to reach.
After using the self cleaning feature for the 10th or so time, the range locked up and nothing worked.
First we watched a YouTube on how to replace the thermostat. It was easy to turn off the circuit breaker. It was a little tricky to pull the range away from the wall and then we were able to unplug. Because our range is a dual fuel model, the back had a lot more screws to remove to get to the thermostat because there were covers over a lot of wires and the gas line I presume. However, we did get off the 12 or so screws with a regular screw driver. We easily located the thermostat and quickly realized that the two screws holding the thermostat in place were neither flat head nor phillips. We were able to remove one of them and merely twisted it sideways, installed the new thermostat with one screw and attached the wires. When we flipped the circuit breaker and plugged in the over, Voila, it worked. The hardest part was getting all the covers off the back. I hope it doesn't happen again because this was an expensive replacement part.
The side trim on the glass door needed to be replaced.
After we put the latch pins in, the door was easily lifted off. We placed the door on the table and unscrewed the trim pieces. The new trim pieces went into place after we cleaned the door. We slipped the door back on the oven and removed the hinge pins.
The light bulb burnt out, the assembly was damaged by the rack sliding in and out
This is a microwave/ Oven slide in unit. You DO NOT need to slide out the unit, the repair can be done from inside the oven. Just be careful on pulling the wires from the unit so they do not break. I used shrink wrap over the joints but you can use tape as long as it can take the temperatures
Ordering the part online was easy. It arrived in a timely manner. I found a terrific video online showing how to install the terminal. It was so easy. Thank you for the great instructional video.
Taking off the glass lense for the light bulb was harder than I thought. It unscrews counterclockwise, but it was very hard to get off. It would not turn. I ended up using connector pliers I use for work, that has rubber jaws. The lense unscrewed very easy with it. Light also unscrews out. PartSelect.com is the only way to go to buy parts for appliances. It is simple, even has the illustrated parts catalog. And it saves a lot of time and gas, driving around looking for the part!!. PartSelect came through again.
I snapped a bolt on the main power terminal block when connecting the pigtail.
Removed the small metal panel covering the main power terminal in back of the electric range. Removed the nuts holding the red, white and black electrical wires from the range using the appropriate socket (there will be two nuts on each bolt end). Removed the two screws holding the main power terminal block with appropriate screw driver. Connect the new main power terminal block to the range using the two screws. Reconnect the red, black and white electrical wires coming from the range using one nut for each wire. IMPORTANT: do no over tighten the nuts because the bolts could snap. Reconnect the pigtail and secure the small metal panel covering the main power panel.
Installed a new thermostat and noticed the convection heating element wire had burned in two. Ordered new element and installed. Oven is currently working properly again.