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The side trim on the glass door needed to be replaced.
After we put the latch pins in, the door was easily lifted off. We placed the door on the table and unscrewed the trim pieces. The new trim pieces went into place after we cleaned the door. We slipped the door back on the oven and removed the hinge pins.
Ordering the part online was easy. It arrived in a timely manner. I found a terrific video online showing how to install the terminal. It was so easy. Thank you for the great instructional video.
We followed the instructions given by Parts Service. The only problem we had (Whirlpool left two screws out of spacer bracket and it fell out requiring further removable of inner glass to replace spacer. Process took about twenty minutes.
I snapped a bolt on the main power terminal block when connecting the pigtail.
Removed the small metal panel covering the main power terminal in back of the electric range. Removed the nuts holding the red, white and black electrical wires from the range using the appropriate socket (there will be two nuts on each bolt end). Removed the two screws holding the main power terminal block with appropriate screw driver. Connect the new main power terminal block to the range using the two screws. Reconnect the red, black and white electrical wires coming from the range using one nut for each wire. IMPORTANT: do no over tighten the nuts because the bolts could snap. Reconnect the pigtail and secure the small metal panel covering the main power panel.
Removed double oven from cabinet after removing the doors, placing it on a milk crate, needs two people, turned it slightly to access the rear panels, removed panels and lower of the 2 motors and installed new motor, replaced all panels. I now have to check to make sure it is turned on it is so quiet! We lived with this noise so long because the appliance repair people said it was very expensive, about $400.00 to replace the motor, we did it for under $100.00 !!
Did not want to remove the pin from the new hinges, so found a proper rod and cut off two half inch pins to use in removing the door. followed the manual instructions. Took all of the screws out but did not notice that the four inside face screws were machine screws while all others were sheet metal screws. Had a little difficulty in getting the four machine screws to engage the bottom holes of the new hinges. Reinstalled the door and all works fine. It is too bad that we could not purchase just a new hinge spring instead of the entire unit. It is kind of a waste. I suspect that self cleaning ovens generate a very high heat which eventually weakens the hinge. The upper oven will likely fail in the future, but at least I know how to repair it.
Oven died during cleaning cycle, over door locked.
I found the problem quickly at the Partselect web site but because the over door was still locked I called for a repairman. He used a large Allen wrench to force the latch open. But with this type of double oven I really only needed access to the lower over to remave the 2 screws on the side rail to get the oven out. The repairman found the in-line fuse that shut off the control panel but after looking at the schematics decided that the circuit board was blown and that part was no longer available. I was told to buy a new oven ($2000). But because of looking at this web site I decided to also check the shutdown thermal fuse in the back of the oven and found it to be blown (I guess the repairman did not see this in the schematics and decided this oven did not have one). The repairman charged me $89 for the service call, the 2 parts from Partselect cost me $81, so much better than $2000 for a new oven. The instructions given for replacing the parts were spot on, just needed help from my neighbor lifting the the oven in and out of the wall.
I went to the source of power on the stove and noticed one of the terminals had come loose from the terminal block and had shorted out against the cover of the terminal junction. After prying the loose terminal off cover I ordered new terminal block and received it the 2nd day. I removed the old terminal block and replaced the part in about 10 minutes..Thank you Parts Select for your easy to find diagrams and quick delivery.
Like others said, the trick was getting the oven door off. If you don't have the instructions, here's how: Open the door all the way. Shine a flashlight on the hinge, and you will see an open hole about 3/16" diameter below the hingepin and toward the oven. With the door open, put a 5/32" allen wrench or any other comparably-sized metal pin into the hole in each hinge. With the pins in place, close the door as far as it will go, which is almost but not quite fully closed. Put one hand under the door handle, the other hand under the bottom of the door, and pull the bottom of the door down and out. With maybe a little wiggling, it will come right out. That's really all there is to it! Taking out all the glass layers is straightforward; you don't need any instructions to see how to do it.
Upper oven self-clean cycle blew out digital keypad
Getting to the wiring harness behind keypad discovered a blown in line thermal fuse. Replaced and turned the main breaker back on. Clock & controls back on.
Replacing the interior oven door glass was the easy part. I'm still struggling with getting the hinges on the door to reinstall. Following all the installation instructions, but they still won't stay in place and door keeps coming out from frame.
By reversing the way I removed the door hinges from the frame, per the reinstall instructions. I called the 800# and they emailed me a diagram, but the hinges depicted were different than mine. When my back feels better, I'll keep trying.