KEBI141DBL1 KitchenAid Wall Oven - Instructions

removed door from oven using hinge locking pins supplied with oven when bought (two small screwdrivers might also work). Put door face down on a towel, removed two screw s on top and on bottom edge, removed back of door, then removed the two screws on eac side holding the old hinge springs. installed new hinge spings and replaced the door. no problems and used the opportunity to clean the door glass.

Removed all terminals and block mounting screws. Repaired one burnt terminal and reassembled. Replacement part was an exact fit and reassembly whnet very well.

Removed door per manual instructions, then disassembled door components until I could remove the hinges. Nothing wrong with either one visually but, hoping the springs had become weak over time, I ordered replacements from PartSelect, knnowing I had a 30-day return window if my diagnosis was wromg.

It was right. Door now closes just fine.

cut power off and placed sturdy table same height as bottom of oven in front of oven. removed trim screws. pulled oven out onto table. removed top cover and panel on left side . tested transformer to be sure it was bad. then replaced transforner

I first did a search with my issue, found out there were many others with the same issue. That then led me to see the part, a fuse / thermostat, was the culprit and easy to replace it seemed. But first called a service co. who confirmed my findings, and quoted a fix of a $2-300! So I bought the part; worse case I'd have someone else install. The web site noted the few screws to remove and a key suggestion to find a box of same height to easily slide out oven; I used a porter cable nail gun case which worked great. Took my time removing trim, mounting screws etc., slid out oven easy. Removed back plate and there was the older one. Removed and installed new in a minute. Spent more time cleaning around trim than actual install. What a great day it was. Wife was happy too!

1- TURN OFF POWER TO OVEN
2- REMOVE OVEN
3- REMOVE BACK PANEL SHROUDING
4- DISCONNECT POWER TO BLOWER
5- REMOVE BLOWER UNIT
5- REPLACE WITH NEW UNIT
6- RECONNECTED POWER
7- PUT OVEN BACK

First I cut off power ! 2 screws for oven trim,4 more to disconnect from cabinet. Hardest part was pulling oven out and pushing back in. I found a big box of correct size to rest it on so I didn't need to disconnect the powerline. 8 more screws to remove the back panel. 2 screws to remove the thermostat.Then put it back together. New part had arrived sooner than expected, cost of the part was less than a minimum service call would have been! I absolutly will use your site again.PS Wife was amazed and now thinks I'm a genious.

I removed the two stainless trim pieces (2 screws) and then two screws which hold the oven frame to the cabinet. Be careful to put a pad on your floor before you pull the oven out of the cabinet as there are sharp edges on the bottom of the oven. I removed apprximately 12 screws holding the back panel in place. The fixed set point thermostat is in middle toward the top of the oven cavity after removing the rear panel. Just remove two screws and slide the terminal connectors onto the new thermostat. Very easy job for someone who is not too handy.

Shut off power at breaker and removed oven door to lessen weight. Removed oven trim and retaining screws and tried pulling out of cabinet. Stuck on power cable, so had to remove Mircrowave oven above to get to power cable plug. Removed oven back cover panel to access thermostat. Easy to unplug and replace with new thermostat. Reassembled and turned on power. Cooked dinner in oven.

After 22 years the oven stopped heating in the middle of a meal prep. The fault code was F3 oven temperature problem. I googled the codes and found PartSelect described the problem and the repair and part needed. I received the oven sensor part, then turned off the power, used a screwdriver to remove 2 screws (had to find the right size flat head screwdriver to fit the square holed screws and they were pretty baked on after 22 years of use), gently pulled the sensor and wiring through the back of the oven. I used a needle-nose plier to pull the plastic connector through the insulation, then unsnapped the connector, snapped in the new sensor connector and pushed it back through the oven wall. Pretty simple repair, took me longer to find the screw driver than the actual repair.
Thank you PartSelect for making it easy and saving me a repairman visit!

GENERAL APPROACH:
1) Checked YouTube for some general guidance: VERY helpful things there for this! PartSelect's install info. was helpful as well- Thank you for this!
2) had table set up in order to disassemble the door once it was removed
3) There are 4 separate glass panes in there- they all need to be cleaned
4) TOOK PICTURES AND MADE CAREFUL NOTES AS (12 or 15?) SCREWS ARE TINY & THERE ARE DIFFERENT TYPES. TAPED THEM NEAR WHERE I REMOVED THEM SO AS TO KEEP THINGS STRAIGHT
5) Like any project little or big, just take your time & it actually works out well
6) take advantage of this downtime to clean the oven good, as well as the door & panes of glass. Cleaning was 75% of this project.
7) EXTRA: If you're so inclined, turn the breaker off for the Oven & carefully remove the lower heating element to enable easier & more thorough cleaning of your oven. You'll be glad you did this- and so will your cook!

Sorry but that would take too long to give all instructions, but I will mention that there were four glass plates if you count the cover of the door which is a large glass piece. All glass plates had to be taken out or off including the holder hardware in order to get to the inner glass (about 15 screws in all). No you-tube videos seemed to apply directly for this door. Taking some pics and using a card to hold screws in the pattern they were taken out helped keep the in order to be replaced (I screwed the screws into a paper sheet to keep the pattern with some labeling like top, bottom, etc). Lower glass door appears to only have two glass plates (didn't take it apart, but inner glass holders were not seen when peering in through the inner glass as they are in the upper door). If the inner glass plate on this door gets broken it should be easier. The glass was broken for some time before this repair so there was a lot of cleaning required inside the door. Oh, by the way, when taking out the door off pull out (not up) after locks are released and when the door is mostly closed. Push back in and open door down a bit to lock back in place. This is far from complete but I hope it helps some.

Remove rear panel - remove sensor from inside - unplug from rear - reverse to install - did not fix problem

Repair was fairly simple, unscrewed oven from cabinet and pulled it out. Then remove screws on back panel to access the thermostat location. Unscrew old thermostat, unplug it from connectors and plug in new thermostat. Then screw back in place, replace cover and pop oven back in place. Now fire it up, worked for me! Thanks to part-select. Good luck everyone. Probably saved $200 service call.

Originally ordered just the spring assuming that might be it and it was the cheapest way. However after getting in I found that the latch assembly had a broken 'tit' that is intended to hold the metal latch in place as it moves. Attempted to glue w/ epoxy but as i expected there was too much pressure to hold it in place. So....ordered the assembly.

TURN OFF BREAKER.....

1) Remove the two side rails by removing screw on the inside bottom of rails.
2) It helps to remove the door to get it out of your way but not required. To do this open door fully and insert two nails or similar into holes on each hinge. Close the door until the hinge contact nails. Lift the door up and out.
3) remove the top control panel by removing screw on either side (outside of oven)and screws on the underside of panel behind upper door.
4) It help to completely remove the panel to have more room to work but not required. If you do it is a good idea to photo the cable locations so it is easy to recall where they go. For the most part they only fit one location but always a good idea.
5) remove the latch by removing all spade connectors and two screws in front.
6) place new latch and reassemble.