KAWS750JQ0 KitchenAid Washer - Instructions

Replaced clutch and direct drive assembly and associated parts. Found a broken pin on the plastic part that moves the cam.

Watched a youtube video first. Thats where I saw the ad for Part Select. It didn't go as smooth for me as it did for the guy in the video. Mine was rusty but a little oil spray a hammer and screw driver got it done. I'm glad your site has pictures of the parts. It helped me get the right part the first time.

It was very easy. The instructions were very helpful. My husband had taken the agitator apart before we orded the repair kit and discovered that the clogs were worn. What would of been more helpful that when we ordered the kit that it could of told us the little bit of agitator grease was going to be needed. Instead it said it after we recieved the kit that we needed the grease.

Using the video that was supplied with my confirmation of my order. I followed the video to the "T" and everything went great. That is very helpful to have those videos. Who keeps their manuals for 10 years or more. I think the repair even took me less time than the video estimated. I would definetly order from this company again. Sears wanted 3 times the price and 15-16 days longer to get the part. I ordered the part on Sunday and had it Tuesday.

Simple and quick. 1) Unhooked water pipe connections on the back of the washer, 2) Unscrewed the two screws holding the head(the switch,dials panels)that also hold the back panel and popped two clips hold the head to the outer cover, 3) unhooked the electric swich harness and tilt the head panel backward over the back cover, 4) slide the washer outer cover housing, 5) leaned the washer drum and motor on it's back, 6) unscrewed the small screws holding pump clips and removed both clips, then pull the pump straight up, then did the same to the screws and clips holding the moter. Took the direct coupling and fit them into the shaft...installing is just reversed...Washer tested working perfect.

shut off water source,Re route cold water line to hot water line to keep laundry going!! ordered parts, removed back cover using screwdriver. valve is held in place with 2 screws and a screw (5/16"?) in the mounting plate. pinch clamp on bottom of inlet hose and 2-2 prong plugs for power. really couldnt screw up the orientation of plugs and hoses...used self tapping screws to re-fasten the back of washing machine cover to avoid lining up the holes...hack!

The fix was super easy. The parts were less then the shipping and had my parts one day ahead of the estimated time on the internet. It was a Bing Bang Boom project that saved the fiance and me a few bucks.

Turned off the water and power, disconnected the supply hoses. Then took out the two screws in the control panel. Removed the clips holding the back to the main tub assembly. Marked the hot/cold control wires on the valve assembly, then removed them. Pushed back the internal water hose clamp (watch out for water in the line). Unscrewed the old valve assembly and bolted in the new one. Replaced the control wires and internal water hose and clamp. Replaced the clips holding the back to the tub and the screws to the control panel. Replaced the supply hoses and power cord.

Used video that was sent with confirming email to temove cabinet, agitator, pump, motor and transmission. Replaced clutch and agitator repair kit and reassembled. Washer worked correctly the first time I tried it.

Repair went really well thanks to the video PartSelect had posted with the drive motor coupling. It showed me how to take machine apart to replace the coupling. Loved the step-by-step instructions. Made it so easy for my son and me to do together and I am a female.

Simple repair that only took as long as it did because I took the opportunity to thoroughly clean the underside of the agitator and the bottom of the drum which it covers. Clear instructions, simple repair but it would be nice if this site had a footnote when ordering the kit that the grease for the thrust bearing is not included. I (sparingly) used a pure silicone grease I had in the garage. Everything is operating smoothly and we once again have clean clothes. What more could I ask for?

After shutting of water and removing supply hoses I started out removing the two small sheet metal screws on rear top and side top to remove dash board. Removed two large spring clips that hold the top and back together that are hidden by dash. pulled back panel back to access valve from left (looking at back of washer) Removed sheet metal screw securing valve plate to back panel. Moved hose spring clamp below hose barb on valve. Disconnected hot and cold switch plugs from valve and installed new valve using reverse steps above. Vacuumed and wiped down dust and lint from washer and put back in place. I used a short stool to ease working at a low position.

The parts did the job. pulled off the agitator cap, unscrewed the 1 bolt. pulled up the assembly, replace the parts, put it all back together. It was so easy i couldn't believe i got it right so fast. less then 10 minutes and i was washing dirty clothes again.

I unplugged unit and moved washer into room and turned off water supply and disconnected hoses. tipped washer back so I could access motor and pump -- pump is held in place with 2 spring clips. I removed inlet and outlet hoses from pump with my channel lock pliers. I then popped the spring clips holding the pump with a flat screwdriver.

I watched the video and everything went just as the video said. Took 25 minutes including the time it took to clean the agitator parts. I did not use the agitator grease recommended, but instead used Red N Tacky #2 multi-purpose grease. It has a 540 degree F drop point, Good for sliding surfaces, Stays in U-joints and resists wash out. I love this grease and you can use it on so many things.