Models > KAWE577BWH1 > Instructions

KAWE577BWH1 KitchenAid Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for KAWE577BWH1 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the KAWE577BWH1
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Found cracked brake shoe

  • Customer: Michael from Trafalgar IN
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 11 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
Remove the main bolts that hold the gearbox in place, pull the gearbox and shaft out. You will see the brake shoes and drum--the large spring is a struggle to replace. Getting it out was not hard. The biggest struggle I had was replacing the brake shoe spring after replacing the shoes. I ultimately compressed the spring in a vise, then used safety wired it, then placed it between the shoes, then cut the wire to relaease the spring.

improper or no hot water flow

  • Customer: Cynthia from Manchester MO
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 11 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
After taking the entire washer apart one time, we learned that we could take the top and front of the machine off only to repair it. I found Part-select online and with the model number locating the part was easy. It arrived within 3 days and with instructions I could easily replace the old part with a few tools. I spent dollars instead of hundreds for a new machine.

Agitator was barely agitating. Making a clicking noise.

  • Customer: Charmaine from Slidell LA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 9 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
Removed agitator cap. Removed bolt inside with socket wrench. Located plastic cogs Pulled out old cogs and slid in new cogs and put back together and works great. Easy to take apart and put back together. Very cheap repair. Cogs less that $4.00 plus shipping. Shipped next working day.

top agitator would not operate

  • Customer: Larry from Edgewood TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 8 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
unscrewed a bolt, pulled top agitator out and replaced parts and reinstalled.

my cold water did not run in the machine and it would not rinse

  • Customer: TONYA from DISTRICT HEIGHTS MD
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 9 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
we looked at the video first then my husband fit the proble boy! was i excited! all the stores tried to get me to buy a new one. thanks partselets!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Tub banged against the front of case during spin

  • Customer: Peter from Boca Raton FL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 8 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
3 online people recommended tilting the machine on the side and replacing the 3 suspension springs. Someone else recommended changing the tub pads. That is the wrong approach. It is actually easier to remove the case than turn the machine on the side. Once you do it once or twice it takes less than 2 minutes and it doesn't distort the suspension. You don't even have to disconnect the hoses. When I originally examined the machine lying on it's side I saw that the tub balance spring was still attached to the tub but the other end had detached. I looked for the place to reattach it. I found a place on the glide plate. Unfortunately this was the wrong place and the machine continued to bang away. When I realized that the spring had to be attached to the lower frame rather than the glide plate (one week of looking). I even wrote to the Repair guru. Once I found my mistake the repair took 5 minutes and no tools other than the phillips screwdriver to take out the 2 screws for the case. I replaced the tub balancing spring for good measure. The machine works great.

WILL NOT SPIN

  • Customer: Daniel from Temple TX
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 8 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
THIS IS A RELATIVELY NEW WASHER AND FAILED EARLY. MY PREVIOUS WHIRLPOOL WASHER LASTED 20 YEARS WITHOUT ANY REPAIRS.
1. FIRST INQUIRED ABOUT THE SPIN PROBLEM IN PARTSELECT. MACHINE WILL NOT SPING UNLESS MANUALY FORCED THEN IT WILL TAKE OFF BUT WEAK.
2.PARTSELECT SUGGESTED A CLUTCH PROBLEM. ORDERED THE PART THAT CAME FAST. WHEN I TRIED REMOVING THE SHAFT HUB WITH A HAMMER AND CHISEL IT WILL NOT GET LOOSE SO I OPTED ORDERING THE SPECIAL WRENCH TO LOOSEN THE TUB HUB.
3.I PUT THE MACHINE ON ITS BACK AND LOOSENED THE PUMP RETAINING CLIPS. DO NOT REMOVE THE HOSES FROM THE PUMP. MOVE THE PUMP AWAY FROM THE MOTOR SHAFT. REMOVE THE MOTOR ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR AND SET ASIDE.
4.REMOVE THE THREE BOLTS HOLDING THE GEARBOX-MOTOR ASSEMPLY AND PULL IT OUT OF THE TUB.
5.PUT THE ASSEMBLY ON A TOWELWITH SHAFT UP AND REMOVE THE SEPARATOR WASHER FROM THE OLD CLUTCH THAT IS SITTING ON THE GEARBOX. THEN REMOVE THE C-RETAINING CLIP FROM THE SHAFT.
6.PRY OUT THE WIRE RETAINING CLIP FROM THE CLUTCH AND PULL THE OLD CLUTCH OUT OF THE SHAFT.
7.THE CLUTCH KIT I ORDERED CAME WITH A PLASTIC BRAKE TO CLUTCH CAM SO I REPLACED IT TOO, JUST REMOVE THE RETAINIG CLIP FROM THE BRAKE THAT IS AT THE BOTTOM OF THE TUB AND REPLACED THE PART.
8.INSTALLED THE NEW CLUTCH AND THE RETAINING CLIPS IN REVERSE ORDER. REPLACE ALL PARTS THAT CAME WITH THE KIT. THE NEW CLUTCH SPRING WAS ALREADY IN PLACE.
9.PUT THE ASSEMBLY BACK INTO THE TUB AND RE-INSTALL ALL THE OTHER ITEMS IN THE SAME ORDER. IT SPINS GOOD NOW!
10.WHILE REPLACING PARTS, METHODICALLY CLEAN ALL THE LINT FROM THE MOTOR AND FROM UNDER THE MACHINE. THE GEARBOX SHOWED SIGNS OF LEAKING OIL SO ITS A QUESTION OF COST. I LEFT IT THERE UNTIL IT FAILS THEN I'LL BUY A NEW MACHINE.

Washer would'nt spin

  • Customer: Dean from Poplar Grove IL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
diconnected water supply and discharge, unplugged the unit, removed the aggitator, laid the washer on it's back, romoved the hoses from the pump, took out 3 bolts, removed the motor/transmission and replaced the clutch and put it all back together.

Water Inlet Valve

  • Customer: Ron from Hibbing MN
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
The reason it took as long as it did was because the job is not in line as the work I normally do.
It would be a fairly easy job for an experienced repairman. (Taking the back off the washer was time consuming for me) The rest of the job was easy as the part was a perfect fit.
I remember having a problem blending hot/cold water for some time. Most recently, while washing a load the water did not want to shut off. I can't remember how I diagnosed the water not shuting off as a problem along with the water temp control, but it is now repaired.
With the new valve installed, water temp select is now OK and the water now shuts off as normal.

spin cycle was not working / poor

  • Customer: Craig from Plano TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Socket set
  • 8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
Unplugged the appliance. turned off inlet water and removed hoses. popped the cap off hiding the bolt that keeps the agitator in place and pulled the agitator off. tipped the washer on its front . disconnected the Wire harness. removed the 3 bolts that hold the pump, motor,clutch, (drive assembly in other words). pulled the Drive assembly out of its resting spot removed the bad clutch and replaced it with the new one. then reassembled in reverse order.

Lid Switch failed

  • Customer: David from Roanoke VA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
I didn't think this would be particularly difficult but it was easier than I expected.

UNPLUG THE MACHINE

Remove the two screws (one on the right , one on the left) That allows the control panel to swing up.

Lift the panel up.
There is a plastic wiring connector that is secured in the top of the washer housing. Press the sides of the top of the connector and remove the top connector. (The bottom part of the connector will still be secured to the housing)

There will be two clamps one on the right side under the control panel, and one on the right.
Use a screwdriver to pop out these clamps. This is where I used the washcloth to place between the screwdriver and the washing machine body to avoid scratching the surface.

Once you pop out these clamps, the housing is free from the tub frame.
Twist the housing just a little and tilt it forward. IT will just slide off the frame.
You can now take the housing wherever you want to more easily get to the switch. It is mounted in the housing.
Take a good look at the way the switch is mounted and the wiring tube is secured because you will need to at least have an idea how to put it back into place.

There will be two clips that hold the wiring tube in place. One on the side and one on the top. Use a screwdriver (and the washcloth if necessary) to loosen and remove the clips.

There are two screws that hold the switch to the housing. Remove these and keep the screws. You will need them to attach the new switch.

Now the only thing keeping you from removing the switch is the connector which you saw earlier before removing the housing. Squeeze the sides of the clip and free it from the housing.

Mount the new switch into the housing and route the wiring. You may have to use a small pair of pliers to squeeze the clips back together to hold the wiring tube to the housing.
Attach the green ground wire to the housing frame just like the one you removed to get the wring tube off the housing.

Push the connector end through the hole designed for it until it snaps into place.

Replacing the Housing back on the frame:
Let the housing all the way down, and slide the front lip of the housing UNDER the front brace of the tub frame.
Carefully let the housing lower onto the side rails (the housing will go on TOP of the side rails).
You may have to gently twist the housing to let it fall into the proper place.
Take the clips and secure the housing back to the tub frame.
These just POP back into place with applied pressure.
Re-connect the lid switch to the control panel wiring connector.
Swing the control panel back down into place and replace the screws on the left and right sides.

PLUG IN THE MACHINE

Viola!! You are ready to perform your favorite laundry task.(Yeah RIGHT!!) Or just yell "HONEY the washing machine is ready for you." Anyway, after the swelling in your eyes go down you will see that your washer is ready to use.

This took me about 40 minutes but some of that time was spent understanding just what to do. With these instructions, you may be able to do it in 30 minutes.

I hope this helps you. Kudos to the Whirlpool Engineers who made this machine easy to work on. This is the 3rd repair I have done on mine. (Rebuilt the agitator drive and replaced the timer) For 18 years of use.. that ain't bad. I think it is good for another 5 years at least. Total cost for this repair: Part=$37, Shipping=$7, Time spent=40 minutes. Not bad considering a serviceman is going to charge $90 labor for the first hour plus parts.

Spin cycle not working properly; Clothes still soaked when spin cycle finished

  • Customer: Sarah from Columbus OH
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
We ordered both the motor coupling and the clutch assembly based on our troubleshooting, and because we figured both parts were inexpensive enough we might as well have them both. We initially thought it was the clutch assembly, but as we were taking the washing machine apart, we noticed that actually one of the bolts was missing completely and one had snapped in two. We then realized that the spin cycle problem was actually related to the instability of the motor because of the missing/broken bolts (they didn't even have washers!). All we had to do was replace the bolts and use a bolt extractor to get the broken bolt out, but we went ahead and replaced the clutch assembly as well for good measure. Everything ran perfectly after that! I was very skeptical to do the repair myself, but it really is easy, as long as you have someone with muscle to help out. You can also look up videos online that show you a step by step repair process for the clutch assembly, and I would highly recommend doing that so that you have a visual. It will make everything seem 100x easier.

Cold water flow was slow

  • Customer: Garry from Palm Bay FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
Removed old part; exchanged rubber plungers between the hot and cold. Symptoms still the same - so eliminated the need for new rubber plungers (even though they still needed to be replaced). The only item left were the magnetic switches opening and closing the flows. The syphon was replaced due to broken plastic mountings causing the syphon to hang into the drum. Repair was a snap and finding the parts on your site was very easy and parts were there within 2 days at standard shipping. Thank you.

Washer worked fine but wouldn't spin. Hot smell. I could turn tub by hand to help it get started and it would spin okay. Silver clutch cover was very hot to touch.

  • Customer: Kevin from Disputanta VA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 9 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
I pulled back off machine. A real pain. Not something you have to do although once the back is off, the whole cabinet just lifts off. Idealy: Remove agitator and reatiner clip, lay washer on it's side or face, Remove electrical connector form motor, remove two hoses from pump, (motor can be remove easily from transmission if desired. It's lighter), remove three 1/2" bolts, lift transmission w/clutch assembly out. Pay attention to orientation of flat washer and clip (remove). The cluch band is indside the silver cover. Pich together with pliers to relieve tension and lift out. There are three while pads that wear away and glaze over when they get too hot from slipping. Reassemble. Ths is from memory so I hope I didn't forget anything. Time to do it this way would probably only be 45 minutes.

No agitation, No spin, pump OK

  • Customer: Ernest from Midlothian VA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
I was familiar with the Kenmore / Whirlpool direct drive mechanism but at first I could not determine how to release the console. I finally found the end cap trim pieces would pop off revealing the 2 screws that hold the console in place. After removing them the console flips up and over the backboard. I then removed the 2 clips that hold the cabinet to the backboard, unpluged the lid switch connector and then tipped the entire cabinet forward and off the frame. This gives you access to the entire washing machine mechanism.
Next I released the 2 metal clips that hold the pump on and push it out of the way leaving the hoses connected. Next I released the 2 clips that hold the pump on, these clips also have a screw to secure them. I was then able to set the motor to the side without removing any wires.
The coupling parts had broken and were already off of the motor shaft and the input drive shaft of the transmission. I put the new drive parts on and had to tap them down untill they were flush with the end of the shafts. I then put the rubber coupling on the transmission drive end and aligned the motor drive to mate into the other holes in the coupling as I put the two back together. I then re attached the 2 motor clips with screws and reinstalled the pump with it's clips. I then reinstalled the cabinet onto the frame and replaced the cabinet clips. I then plugged in the lid switch connector and flipped the console back over and screwed it down. I then reinstalled the trim caps that had me stumped to begin with. The unit tested out OK.
All Instructions for the KAWE577BWH1
76-90 of 1,422