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Microwave would not heat food
First and most important - unplug AC power 24 hours before service.
I removed the vent cover above the main door, then I removed the screw which holds the control panel in place, unplugged the main connector on the control panel so I would have enough room to work, removed grounding screw from the DIODE ASSY, pulled connector off the CAPACITOR with pliers, installed new DIODE ASSY.
After installation of DIODE and the control Panel, I plugged in the AC power and allowed the CAPACITOR to charge - this takes about an hour or so, then test. Works perfect!
took off upper grille and touch pad and removed the old line fuse and replaced with a new fuse ...turned on it is working fine...sources of help: UTube and GE manuel
Touch pad failed to respond to any programming effort
Went to onlin source, found a couple youtube videos then went to the GE site which had a not-too-easy that find trouble shooting guide. It was extremely helpful as it described a fuse as a fix 80% of the time for touch paid failure. I really didn't believe it would b a fuse, but it was the cheapest fix, $8. I got the fuse and was surprised to fine there are two of them on this model. I took a guess and replaced the top one ( neither fuse was black or burned to indicate a failure but the top one was a bit mor greyish). put it all back together and it works fine.
Previous mica canopy sagged and was breaking apart.
Removed existing canopy by removing two screws and sliding out. Removed small fan assembly and detached brown plastic mount from mica.
Attempted to snap brown plastic mount to new canopy but had problems with it staying in place, even after snapping into holes on canopy. Applied a very small amount of glue to hold it in place and balanced fan assembly on part and slid into place. Re inserted the two screws.
Removed screws holding outer shell. Pushed in door handle to identify faulty switch. Ordered part. Pryed switch out with screw driver and unplugged. reinstalled new switch. Presto. BUT... I did NOT use both hands while working on the microwave. I did not release the energy from the capacitor or whatever holds the killer amperage even when unplugged. It would be advisable to do this first. I did not because it seemed complicated, so I was EXTREMELY CAREFUL about not touching anything else inside the unit. I used one hand only so if I did touch something I would not get juiced through the chest. It was a piece of cake repair, but I would not go deeper without doing the discharge routine.
tried to replace rack holder but was unable. It did not turn easily and took a screwdriver to pry it out before replacing it. No instructions were available from manufacturer so we were afraid if we pried it out we would be severing different entry parts for the rack holder. Not a good scene!!!We finally pried it out but without instructions.
Had to remove outer cover (special screws involved). Found the correct part at PartSelect.Com and it arrived 3 days later as promissed.
This oven has diffcult electrical connections at switch to get disconnected. I found it easier with the sw loose and in hand so that the connectors can be released with a small screwdriver.
One has to this in order to test the part wirh an ohm meter. I found the sw did not close but remained open and thus caused the oven not to function.
Removing interconnect switch is tricky but not difficult.
Outer cover replacement is not as easy as it should be, especially the sides.
All is well and working.
Microwaves are simple devices if you are know how to read and understand schemetic diagrams.
We broke the glass plate in the microwave and the rotating ring too
We had an accident on Christmas day, while using the convection option on the microwave, the glass plate and ring assembly slipped down from where it was temporally being stored, and shattered into many pieces.I was really lucky, we had a older GE microwave that we scrapped out. My wife and I decided to keep the glass plate and rotating ring, when we tried the parts it wouldn't turn. I decided to try a new rotating ring considering the glass plate would of cost quite a bit more. When the part came, I tried the ring and as I said I was really lucky, it worked perfectly. The ring from the old microwave made the glass plate sit too high and consequently wouldn't turn. It wasn't really much of a repair, but it all worked out great, the parts site was easy to use and the parts came when they said they would.
Repair was easy. I took a picture of the board while connectors were still in their place. That really wasn't necessary because it was easy to match each connector with its receptacle. On completion, the power was put on and I was disappointed that the repair hadn't worked. The panel lights were still dim and hard to read. I did a google search on this problem and read that the problem with dim lights is due to a bad condenser and (though I don't believe it) one can go bad in time without being used. I called Parts Select and received a return authorization. The next day to my surprise, the panel lights were now bright and readable. I called Parts select and cancelled the return. Two weeks later it is still working. Thanks for being a reputable company.
One small Phillips screwdriver and one fuse puller (I used cord). Unplug unit. Remove the two screws on the vent face plate. Remove the one screw on the panel assembly. Gently let hang. Pull the fuse located on the upper left wall. Replace fuse. Reassemble.
the online instructions were ideal - just unscrewed the right-hand screw (the only screw) and replaced the bulb by inserting gently but firmly)...getting the old bulb out was a pain, b/c it shattered in my grasp (with little bits of glass all over the stove!), but that has nothing to do with the purchase and installation from this site - all a very good experience
