JVM1339WW02 General Electric Microwave - Instructions

Open door and carefully pry the dust cover ring off the inside of the door.The door handle is attached by two screws, one at the top and one on the bottom. You have to take the dust cover off because that is the only way to get to the bottom screw. The top screw is accessible at the top of the door just above where the dust cover is installed.

damper plate was a snap-in part. rotated fan discharge to top of microwave. installed ducting to discharge food odors outside.

Watched How to repair a Microwave that turns on when the door is opened Video on the web. From this took a shot at the switch was the problem. When I removed the switch it was defective. The small button was in and when you turned the switch upside down the button would drop back into position. Ordered a switch for $25.oo , installed it and the microwave is working fine.

Removed top phillips screw from inner side of door. Removed plastic inner door liner (seal???) which is around the glass by carefully inserting a flexible putty knife and teasing the seal outward. Only lifting the bottom of the seal outward is necessary to reveal the bottom screw which holds the bottom part of handle on the door. Removed bottom screw and removed old handle. Inserted new handle in place and using existing screws, tightened top screw firmly enough to hold in place. Inserted bottom screw and tightened until firmly attached to door. Then tightened top screw a little more until there was no space between handle and door. Be careful not to overtighten screws! Popped inner door liner seal back in place. To help preserve handle from prematurely breaking again, try opening door by grasping the top part of the handle each time you open the door.

Unplug appliance, Staring from the rear sides, remove the four side screws. Remove the left and right front screws and finally the front center screw. The bottom panel hinges down toward the rear . Unplug the input wires from the sockets . Unscrew the two retainer screws (one each) and pull the sockets out of the panel. Note that the retainer screws are shouldered. The shoulder fits through the elongated slot in the socket. Screw the bulb into the socket and insert through the mounting hole. Insert and tighten the mounting screws. Note that the sockets may appear to be a bit loose. That's OK because of the shouldered screw. Don't over tighten or you risk stripping the threads of the panel. Plug in the input sockets and install the panel screws in the reverse order of removal. Plug the appliance in and test the bulbs.

Took the light socket out and replaced it.

Replaced light socket and bulb. Real easy repair.

Using a #2 Phillips screwdriver and removed the screw that retains the lens frame around the broken lens. I also did the same to the opposite side (whose lens was fine but the bulb had been burned out for some time). With my fingers I pryed up the frame clips that secure the lens in place, removed the pieces of the broken lens, and replace the lens with one of the new lenses I had ordered. Although the bulb on this side was still burning, I replaced it with one of the two I ordered anyway. When I removed the bulb that was burned out, the glass separated from the bulb's base. However, I simply put on a set of tight fitting leather gloves and used my ring finger to apply pressure inside the base and it soon began to twist and then came out. This takes a little manual dexterity, but is very doable. If it were too tight, you could take a large "easy-out" tool (like the one to fit a 3/8" - 1/2" hole) and it would remove the broken base in short order. I had also ordered a second lens, but the lens on the burned side was simply dirty, so I cleaned it, put it back in place and saved the new one for a rainy day. By the way, BE ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN THE LIGHTS ARE SWITCHED TO THE "OFF" POSITION BEFORE DOING ANY OF THE ABOVE. Also take care to clean the glass on the bulbs with denatured alcohol and handle them with clean cloth gloves or a tissue so as not to allow any oils to be on the surface when they are switched on. Body oil will immediately create a hot spot which will shorten the life of the bulb by at least 50% if not more.

My handiman opened the door. Removed a rubber seal from the back of the handle position, Removed the screws, Removed the old broken handle. Set the new handle, Put in the screws. Reattached the rubber seal. The new handle looks like an original. Job done. Microwave easy to operate with the new handle. Jobe finished.

The instructions provided by other reviewers made this a 15 minute repair.

As suggested, I placed a towel over the stove. Only had 3 main screws to remove from bottom of microwave. Dropped the bottom and changed the sockets and light bulbs. After replacing the bottom tray, I put the new glass light lens in. The clips on glass holder bent back like a photo frame-really easy. Turned on the lights and was done.

My son had to replace the bulbs because the screw that holds the bulb shield was so tight that I couldn't remove it. It was too difficult for me to do it myself.

sent off for new part and replaced it. I`ve done several of these in the past in my shop ,so it was no problem .worked on other equipment also over the years in my job 1 to 10 about a 2 .

Easy Repair. The top screw was visible and found the bottom screw under the trim strip. Popped that bottom corner strip up and removed the screw. Replaced the two screws to attach the new handle. It was easy... even for a "girl"! Price for the new handle seemed a bit high at $60 some dollars plus shipping but arrived here really fast! Thanks. Now I need to tackle the yellowed handles on my GE refrigerator but they cost over $100. YIKES. Why aren't these handles made to last?

Had to take the MW off the wall, remove the cover, and find the magnetron. Issue was the HV-capacitor. Had to remove the diode and capacitor to discharge the capacitor safely. Crackle-Bang! Then put it back before toying with the HV-transformer in order to get the magnetron out. Took a little under two hours to get it back on the wall and a lot of cajones when monkeying around the chassis removing the capacitor. Not a job for most everyone as this was a potentially high-shock repair due to the voltage and micro-farads held in that capacitor. Hardest part was getting the magnetron to drop out past the HV-transformer. Also, the thermostat had to be removed from the magnetron and re attached to the new one. Fiddly delicate job, not for the clumsy or faint of heart.