JTP70SM1SS General Electric Wall Oven - Instructions

Turned breaker off at panel first. Removed three sheet metal screws holding top control panel with 8mm socket, removed the two 8mm nuts holding the locking mechanism in and one 8 pin plug, replaced with new part. Put back control panel and I was enjoying homemade oatmeal cookies 30 minutes later. We were using a toaster oven for months until I found the part from this site. The GE repair guy wanted $900.00 to fix it. The part was only $165.00 from this site. Thanks folks!

Replaced new light housing.
Thanks to you guys for the prompt response

Replaced the Oven light housing. Unscrewed the two screws that hold the housing in place. Pulled out the housing and disconnected the wire tabs from the light housing tabs. Slid the wire tabs onto the tabs of the new light housing fixture. (Each tab is fitted to the tab in goes on so they can not be mixed up) Pushed the housing fixture back into place and screwed the housing into place.

Convection fan came loose from the shaft with a lout rattle and grinding as the fan spun down. Had to remove four metal screws to remove the fan cover. Initially tried to just put the nut back on to hold the fan. However, I could not get the nut to start, so I assumed that threads were stripped on the nut or the shaft. Ordered the replacement nut, hoping that it was the nut that was the problem. However, I had the same problem with the new nut. I could see no damage on the shaft. It finally occurred to me that the nut and shaft had left-hand threads (counter-clockwise to tighten). At that point, it was extremely easy to put the nut back on and tighten it. I did not try using the old nut, since I had already received the new one, but I'm certain that if I had come to that realization earlier, I could have saved time and money. So, if you have the same problem, try putting the nut on "backwards."

turned oven off, pulled oven out from wall, removed back of oven, unscrewed sensor from oven replaced with new sensor, put back on, turned power to oven on, tried oven at 425, my temp. gage and the oven temp matched. a very easy fix.

I feel like Macho Mom. I called in the repair guy since I was afraid of dealing with the gas. HE repaired one item but could tell I was comfortable fixing things and pointed out that the gasket was brittle and would cause major problems if not replaced. Took longer to order the part than do the repair, don't know what I was afraid of!

First of all, the sensor had the proper ohm reading...at ambient temperatures. I suspected the sensor because it would jump in large degree increments over 200°F. From what I read online, the only other part that would cause this was a faulty circuit board. I opted to try the $20 part first vs. the $200 part. It worked. One screw on the back top of the inside is all that holds the sensor in. Pull the wires out and you will find a quick-disconnect. New part had the same connector (thank you). Thread the wires back through the hole and replace the screw. Works like a champion (verified with an independent thermometer. That is all she wrote. I only wish I purchased two, since they don't last that long... 4 years...or so. I just bought the house built in 2007 and empty for a year... and it took 45 minutes to cook a pizza, and even then the bottom dough was light. A house without an oven is like a hot dog without mustard!