JRSD249KW Jenn-Air Refrigerator - Instructions

Popped the old one out with a kitchen knife and popped the new one back in. It tool less than 15 seconds!!

To replace the broken drive coupling on the motor end of the auger requires sliding the ice bin out of the freezer section of the refrigerator. Remove the ice cubes and let it thaw out for a few minutes. Remove five screws holding the front face on the ice bin to remove the ice auger. slip the new drive coupling over the end of the auger. reassemble and replace the face plate with the five screws. Slide the ice bin back in the freezer. Less than fifteen minutes it was finished.

Had to remove the ice-maker (also easier than trying to work inside the freezer letting all the cold air out). A few mounting screws and an electrical connection in the back. After it was out you will need to remove the cover (not the superficial cover that just pries off) where the gear is behind it, just far enough so you can get the mounting tabs on the ice-stripper in. In order to to move this cover out, after removing the screws (the obvious), you'll need needle nose pliers to ever so slightly squeeze the plastic clips together that hold the plastic movable bracket and the metal ice level arm/switch, so it will pop out. Once you have room to put the ice stripper in, it should just all snap back together, then proceed in reverse to put it all back together.

Simply stick a putty knife between the switch and refrig wall. Pop out old swith, remove both wires by pulling off switch by terminals. Throw switch out. Put wires on new switch and push into slot and all done. Nothing to it! Took me 5 minutes if th

I tried to remove the old light switch using a putty knife and a hammer. It was hard to compress the plastic tabs to pull it back through the hole, but all of a sudden, the lights came on. I guess banging on the switch freed-up the contacts. The new switch is now a spare part in case I need it.

After receiving the new part almost immediately,using two screw drivers, removed the broken switch from the plastic frame. Be careful not to scratch or otherwise tear the plastic...very pliable. Since the original switch was factory installed and the wires were packed in fiberglass insulation, the switch came out but the wires and clips were still in place and could not reach the new switch. It was necessary to pull them down with bent long nose pliers...used a lot of "pull" but the wires held up.Connected the switch, turned the power on and there was light! Reports from other users really took the uncertainty out of the task.

No instructions with part. Found a picture on line and changed the arm, but it didn't fix the problem. Fairly easy after figured out what needed to be done to get to the part.

Problem caused by ice cubes falling out of ice bin and collecting at rear and interfering with ice dispenser drive. Broke plactic drive ring. Pull down 2 clips at front bottom of ice bin. Pull ice bin out. Dump ice cubes. Remove 8 star drive screws to allow case to move far enough to clear broken drive ring. Replace drive ring. Reinstall and tighten 8 screws. Install ice bin. Correct loose right side ice cube retainer board to prevent cubes from falling out of ice bin.

The main issue is that my supports are NOT held on by screws -- they are behind the fridge wall and can not be removed. So this is my solution (ignore the 'fix kit' -- it is useless and is just this part plus a metal screw. It cost me $20 to find this out). Here is what I did: 1) Cut off the old support with a knife. 2) Get a small toggle bolt (I used 1/8" x 2", < $2 from Home Depot) and thread into new support. 3) Dig around in insulation to make sure there is space for toggle to flip open. 4) Install!!!! Wish I'd thought of this before :-)

empty frezzer take door off unplug wires going to ice maker unscrew/bolt icemaker replace door take motor cover off ice maker remove screws on motor replace ice cup and put every thing back together

removed torx screws and replaced ice bin drive ring.

removed old mount with allen wrench replaced with new mount

I watched the video and thought "I can do this". Made some notes and then proceeded to remove the old switch and replace with the new one. Thank you.

I have never before seen a bulb with the filament intact not light. If the bulb's filament seems intact, screw the bulb into a known working lamp and see if it lights. When screwing it back into the socket in the fridge, it takes a bit of extra effort to fully seat (until it does, it won't light!). For replacing the switch, I unplugged the unit, used a paint scraper and worked it under the switch bezel from the right side. A bit of moxie, and the switch came out. The replacement switch had a different spade contact spacing than the original. I used a pair of scissors to cut the rubber bridge between the two switch wire connectors so I could connect to the new switch. In the end, it turned out to be the bulb. NOTE: The Model TC18KL is _not_ listed! What I finally found that the number "P7803211WL" on the sticker is actually a manufacturing code. Found this out by searching, and Sears' part search came up with matches.

Easy repair - Don't over complicate it. 1) Flip up ice bar to stop making new ice. 2) Pull out the complete ice bin/tray. 3) shut freezer door while you work on the ice bin. 4) All you need to do is remove the 4 screws holding the ice bin holding tray to the front of the Ice cutting section in the front. 5) Screw drive can then be pulled forward to remove the old/broken white drive cap. Just replace the White Drive ring, put the drive screw back into the ice bin tray and re-install the 4 screws. 6) When re-inserting the bin, you may have to twist the screw drive slightly to re-align with the motor bracket in the back of the freezer. Suggestion: throw out old ice because if it is wet or slightly melted, when you put it back in the freezer the ice will freeze/clump together into a large ice clump; not cubes. Also dry out the ice bin so there is no water to freeze up or create a new jam when the ice bin now re-freezes.