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Switch failed
I turned off the circuit breaker and tested the cook top. I pulled the cook top out and laid a piece of plywood over the opening to work on the cook top and not scratch the granite counter top. The mistake I made was to turn the cook top upside down and separate the top from the housing. The dampening springs came off the burners and I could have damaged the elements (but they checked out ok). I turned the whole assembly right side up again and replaced the switch and put it all back together. It works great...thank you for the part.
Electric range burner not working due to control switch
Turned off power to counter top range and pulled-up from counter. Set range on counter and removed 16 screws from around the housing allowing me to pull-up and remove range top. Used socket to remove 4 screws holding control switch bracket in place and 2 screws holding bad switch in place. Disconnect wires from bad switch and reconnected to new switch. Placed and screwed switch bracket back in place. Before placing range top back I turned power back on to to test burner operation. Burner and switch operated correctly and I completed screwing range top back in place, setting back down into counter top. Done
easily lifted the top of the stove after removing two small screws in front of the stove.removed screws holding burner in place , disconnected some wires and replaced burner. be sure to turn off the power before beginning this project
Shut off circuit breaker. Removed cooktop from island counter. Removed all knobs. Removed all screws after finding layout diagrams of unit on your web site. Lifted glass top from metal cabinet. Ordered control after trouble shooting the problem. (Master Electrician). Obviously burned out from water in control. Ordered control on line and installed it when it arrived three days later. Before installing control I cleaned and dried out the area. I cleaned the glass top around all the control shaft holes and the rubber boots and lubricated them with silicone to help keep them dry and for ease of turning controls. Turned on circuit breaker and checked all burners, pilot light and hot top indicating lights.
Large right burner would only light in the outside and would not stay on
Ordered the part. Received the box damaged and did not realize the part was damaged until our son came all the way from Columbus Ohio to install it. We ordered another part which came in a timely manner. Even though I reported the problem and told them that we are not very computer literate they still would not accept that the part was damaged until we sent a picture. Our son came back from Columbus to install the new part which took about an hour. He took pictures which I was then able to send. They then asked for a serial number. I had already sent all the numbers from the part but that is when they said they wanted the serial number from the stove. We are elderly and getting that required me getting on my hands and knees to get it near the floor. Luckily I was able to get up. After multiple emails I now have to send the part back. Good luck to anyone working with this company. I will be waiting for them to reimburse me for the defective part.
Poor heat control of the power boil element also would not shut down correctly
Remove and unplug the control panel. Remove four 1/4 in screws securing the metal panel to which the four rangetop controls are mounted. Unscrew the affected control, be careful to note the wiring layout on the control. Reassemble and test test out all functions.
it went well as compared to getting a new ~~800$ cooktop and ~~150 to install, I took a shot for 30$ bucks and it worked great!! problem solved and great support ! !! thanks for all your help
The main burner on our GE glass cooktop stopped working. It would glow red and work for a second, then go black.
I thought it was the burner thermostat, so I replaced the burner unit. By coincidence, the ceramic outer portion of the burner was cracked in two places, but otherwise intact. That was not the problem, though since the new burner did the same thing as the old one. Then I new it was the Infinite Control Switch, so I ordered it. Replacing it was easy. I turned off the cooktop circuit breaker and made sure no power was going to it. It is powered by 240 volts so you need to be very careful to turn off the power before doing any servicing on it. I then carefully pried up the glass cooktop and lifted it out, so it wouldn't break. By taking off the control knobs, and removing several small Phillips head screws all around the metal cooktop frame and just under the edge of the glass cooktop, I could lift the glass top off from the cooktop, and place it on some newspaper so it didn't get broken. It is important to keep the rest of the cooktop upright. The burners are not fastened down, and only gravity holds them in place. They normally sit on two springloaded pins, one on each side, and the weight of the glasstop pushes them down to their proper setting. So don't mess with them, and make sure each side remains on the two pins after you're done and before putting the glasstop back on. As for the switch, you need to remove two small 1/4 inch metal screws (a socket is very handy for this), one on each side of a metal framework that holds all the switches. After removing that framework, I carefully turned it over and found the correct switch for the burner that wasn't working. In my case, it was the closest right hand burner, which is also the biggest and has the option of having a big, small or both elements turned on, depending on how you turn the control switch. I then carefully pulled off each wire lead, with a needlenose plier to avoid damaging them, and immediately put each wire onto the corresponding same connection on the new switch. Take a close look at the wires on the old switch to make sure you plug them into the same connectors on the new switch. It's pretty straightforward. There may have been one or two small screws holding the switch onto the framework, but I don't recall right now. It was very easy to see how to remove and then reattach it. Then reverse the above steps and reinstall the cooktop, turn on the power and you should be in business!
Being a front burner, I used a 24 in piece of wood to hold up range top. After removing to screws holding top. Made note of numbers on old burner and wire locations. Took off wires and three spring clips. Then replaced with new in numbered locations , wires next
I removed the cooktop from the countertop and propped it up with 2 1x2's on each end. I removed the Torx screws that hold the glass in place. I set the glass aside. I then removed the screws holding the cover for the switches. I set the large central burner aside. I had to spray the screws holding the switch cover in place to loosen them. I then removed the defective left front switch and replaced the it with the GE Parts Select replacement switch. I then put everything back together. This Utube video was helpful although not my model number https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tmcUqpHNj3Q
