Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Microwave oven ran but stopped heating
I had to unmount the over-the-range microwave oven to be able to gain access to the interior of the oven. Complicating removal (and re-installation) was the fact that there is a "pot-filler" faucet installed directly underneath the oven. In retrospect, I should've removed the faucet before doing the repair, but "c'est la vie."
After I got the microwave down, removing the case was also "interesting." I get bonus points for the fact that the previous owner must've had to replace the same diode before - and then re-assembled the microwave case incorrectly - thereby adding to the confusion (BTW, the service manual that I found online said nothing about how to remove the oven's case).
To remove the case, undo all the screws holding it on, and then rotate the case upwards from the back while also pulling the case backwards. There are crimped folds on the inside of the case that mate with the back edges of the front of the oven's chassis, and these folds have to be unclipped from the chassis in order to remove the case.
Replacing the diode itself was the easiest part of the job. The two connectors on the diode are of different types, making it impossible to install the diode with the wrong polarity.
BTW, the diode that had failed was not an OEM diode; I suspect it was a generic component that had been installed by a repairman sometime between 2004-2008 (when our home's original owners still owned the home). On the other hand, the new diode from PartSelect is an OEM part (it came packaged in a sealed Whirlpool bag).
The fact that the oven had stopped heating indicated that it was either the high-voltage diode or the magnetron that had failed. Since a replacement diode costs ~ 1/10th as much as a replacement magnetron, I figured it made sense to replace the cheaper part first. Fortunately, this fixed the problem.
One last thing: I tried testing both the old and new diodes for conductivity and polarity using my volt-ohm meter (VOM), but I was unable to get either diode to "turn on," even though my VOM is powered by a 9-v battery, and I used the 2-Mohm range setting. I guess the test voltage of my el-cheapo VOM isn't high enough to exceed the diode's threshold voltage, (even though I have successfully used this same VOM to test low-voltage diodes).
removed a dozen screws-discarded large cap-replaced diode-replaced a dozen screws(took longer to replace them than remove for some unknown reason). Microwave now works(wife happy).
The first was breaking off the two screws that need a special head screwdriver to remove. None of my special special head screwdrivers worked (I have a few), so I used a hammer to force them off.
The second hardest part for me was finding the correct replacement bulb on-line. My Amana Microwave is a combo Microwave/Convection type, and it's a strange little bulb - almost tube like.
Once I did find the right bulb on this PartSelect.com website it was a breeze. The part was delivered in just a couple of days (even during this Covid-19 pandemic). Once I had the replacement bulb in hand it barely took 5 minutes to install.
Watched a you tube video prior to installing new switch. Followed the video which gave me confidence i was up to the task. After removing the touch pad I found my design was not exactly like the you tube model but I found the defective switch, replaced it and put the microwave back together. Works great. Again watch the videos
Required that i remove the built in frame and mounting. Required tamper proof socket to remove housing. I removed the old bulb and simply replaced and reverse installed the cabinet.
Oven door would not close all the way, light stays on.
First I removed the oven door - with door fully open pull the clips on the hinges all the way out, then close door as far as it will go and lift the door up and off the oven.
Then I removed the three screws on each side, that hold the oven to the wooden cabinet. I then slid the oven unit out from the cabinet about 6 inches, to gain access to the hinge receptacles.
I then removed the 2 screws that secure the receptables to the oven body, and replaced the receptacles.
Pulled the double wall oven out about five inches and install replacement brackets on both sides. Reinstalled oven doors and slide ovens back. Piece of cake— the lower oven door closes better than when oven was installed 13 years ago. Believe I had a bracket problem from day one!
This was easy to replace. I removed the oven door for easier access to the back of the oven. Removed two Phillips head screws that hold the burner element and disconnected the two wires on the burner element. I could have left the wires connected, but it was easier to extract the sensor with it out of the way. The only difficulty was fishing the sensor connector out through the hole. After that, easy peezy.
Removed the door and the screws that secured the oven to the cabinet. Pulled the oven out about four inches to provide access to the hinge brackets. Removed two screws on each bracket and removed the brackets. Reversed the process and all was well. Works like new.
Terminal block arc'ed because a wire had become loose.
Ordered and received the terminal block. Installed it along with a new 220V power cord and the appropriate insulator . Ensured the terminals were tight with a nut driver. Reinstalled cover. Then, using the control panel, I did a function check on all the heating elements, clock, oven light, to satisfy all operational requirements. All checked good! And, I was relieved that the control panel had not been shorted out as the terminal block was due to a loose connection. Easy fix.
turntable stopped working--- unsuccessful so far with the repair
removed screws from the bottom cover, installed the new motor and reinstalled the cover. The turntable is still not working. wonder if the power supply for that motor is not working. I noticed the internal microwave light glow and then burn out at about the same time as the turn table stopped working. Could that power supply provide power to both the motor and the internal light? can't find the schematics for the location of the power supply so i can test for output power.
I simply went on line to Part Select, placed my order, made payment, and was astonished to see the package with a new dish sitting on my doorstep the next day.Great service.
