JGB928SEL1SS General Electric Range - Instructions

One of my plastic burner knobs cracked. I ordered a replacement knob using the correct part number, but apparently the style of that part has changed slightly over the past four years. My new knob did not match the existing knobs. I ended up buying more new knobs so they all match.

Removed the two screws put the heat shield off the old one onto the new one put new bottom in and tightened two screws. Done #38. 69 Cost of part with shipping cost included.

I was very pleased with how quickly the new oven rack arrived and it was a perfect fit. Thanks.

Unplugged the appliance for safety. Removed two 1/4" screws that held the assembly in place. Carefully removed the wire guard that retains the glass shield. Unscrewed old light bulb and replaced with new part. Reversed the steps after cleaning glass cover.

I had to call for a appointment for repair with GE Appliance because I thought then it . .was something electrical. The technician came out & checked everything out, turned out it was not electrical, The technician went out to his truck got a light bulb from his truck, put it in & it worked. It cost me $121.00 for trip charge from GE appliance for a light bulb that worked, your light bulbs were defective twice. Very disappointed with your products, cost me alot of money for a good light bulb thru GE appliance

Thanksgiving was coming and I needed extra oven space. So I ordered an additional rack. Installation ... just put it in the oven. My part came the day after I ordered it.

the flame spreader through the years, developed a hole above the glow coil causing the above trapped gas between the oven pan and spreader to ignite. by replacing the flame spreader the problem is gone and is now working properly. thank you, parts select for being there when i needed the part and also being reasonably priced. mike marino

removed two screws and took out bottom tray and put the new one in and replaced the screws.DId it my self.

opened back panel. noted location of colored wires. disconnected wires & removed module. attache wires to new module & attached module to panel. closed up back panel. tested all burners

Ordered the parts and put them on. No tools, no problems

Removed bottom shelf from inside oven, turned it obj and replaced the oven deflector with only a screwdriver

Replaced old with new.

Remove the warming drawer entirely. Remove all five nuts securing the valve and regulator assembly. Loosen (do not remove the nuts entirely) the burner assembly itself to give some wiggle room above the valve and regulator assembly. Also remove the single screw that holds the "collar" in place just above the gas outlet that services the oven burner. This should provide the margin of room you need to remove the valve and regulator assembly because it's a tight space. Working entirely in this cramped space (the warming drawer) will take time and patience. Don't drop any screws because you might create a whole load of more work for yourself. Loosen the brass nuts holding the gas lines in place. Then you have to maneovre the old equipment out. Just reverse all the steps to install the new equipment. Apply Harvey's to the brass nuts and re-attach the gas lines BEFORE you firmly attach the equipment using the five nuts. Don't tighten the brass parts all the way, just hand tight at first. Re-attach the equipment using the five nuts, then tighten up the brass parts with a wrench. Don't over tighten. Re-secure the screws that hold the burner in place. Then test the equipment. If all good, wait for the oven to cool, then do a final check that all the screws are firmly in place. Voila.

slid the old ones out and slid the new ones in. done

replaced lights in refrigirator and freezer