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One burner would not light from spark. All other burners lite with spark.
First I checked that the wire and sparker was working by switching the wires on top of the range. I did this by pulling out the sparker switching it from the back working burner on the same side. The same burner would not light so I knew it was not the sparker.
Then watch a bunch of videos and found this gal to be the most helpful on how to take apart my exact stove. Go here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WRGfuhUzEaY
I did not take everything apart like she did. I ordered the spark module and just replaced it following her method to take off the back, switch the wires to the new module, then put everything back together again.
All burners have been working perfectly since the fix.
Hard to remove screws & no instructions that a heat shield had to be transferred from old to new
One of the initial two screws for the oven bottom would not budge. Finally used a socket set to loosen it up. Upon taking out the old bottom I turned it over & saw a heat shield attached. I have no idea if you can order a new bottom with a new shield already attached or not, but I had no idea it was there until I took the old part out. Out of the eight screws attaching the shied, four of them were also difficult to loosen up. But in the end the new bottom looks great !
some of electrodes not working at times,found were bad,wires had some insulation missing, clips looked burnt,found all new parts replaced
the electrodes on this model have to be removed before you can raise cooktop, once cooktop is raised remove wire from burner bracket, use needle nose pliers to squeeze bottom of clip,remove &replace with new parts.
Ordered part from customer friendly Part Select and received the replacement part within a few days, and installed it promptly. Wife is happy and stopped grumbling about oven bottom unsightly defect! Small price to pay for a happy wife! Ernie
This item worked as described. I paid more for this 'oem' probe than the generic 1 because i didn't want to chance it not working as others have reported. - works great. tested it....snaps in, reads correctly, snaps out.
Center Burner Switch would not generate spark and one other burner would not light.
In order to get to the burner switch you must remove the top of the range. Removed the 2 screws in the front holding it down then tried to remove the burner mounting screws securing the burner holders in place. Of the 12 screws, 10 were frozen. The screws sheared when I tried to remove them. After removing the top, I removed the burner holders one at a time and drilled out the broken screws. I would have purchased replacements but the part was listed as unavailable. I removed the front panel which exposed the switches. I cut the wires of the defective switch and used heat shrink crimp connectors to connect the new switch. With the top off the ignition module in the back of the range is exposed. I popped the old one out, changed the wires to the new one, one at a time and secured the new one in place with wire ties as the mounting tabs did not line up. Reassembled the range top using new #8 3/4" stainless steel screws to secure the burner holders. Plugged it in, turned on the gas and voila all the burners light. What should have been a 2 hour job took about 10 hours due to having to drill out the sheared screws.
Two set screws in rear; removed easily with a screwdriver. Old oven floor lifted out easily; new oven floor dropped in just as easily; set screws re-installed. Done. Pleasantly surprised at how easy this went.
I watched the repair video on YouTube and followed his instructions as much as possible. Went pretty well as I thought it would be harder. I’m pretty handy so, I was pleased.
PULL RANGE OUT FROM WALL & ALSO REMOVED OVEN DOOR BY SLIDING UP. WORKING FROM INSIDE OVEN & ALSO BEHIND I REPLACED PART . ALWAYS " UNPLUG " RANGE BEFORE YOU START.
