Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Interior light needed replaced
Unplugged the appliance for safety. Removed two 1/4" screws that held the assembly in place. Carefully removed the wire guard that retains the glass shield. Unscrewed old light bulb and replaced with new part. Reversed the steps after cleaning glass cover.
It all began one find night baking and suddenly the oven would not light up. And so for the next few years all I ever used the stove for was for stove top cooking, See Im a single guy so its not in my nature to get to fancy when it comes to cooking home meals,but after a while the mood changes and you finally get up the motivation to fix whats wrong. The change over went easy,easier than I expected.And the part worked just fine. As far as ease of the order and receipt,couldnt have been better,I got the part within 48hrs and that is fast! Thanks to all. T.Melillo
Twice I ordered the oven light bulb & each time the light bulb was defected
I had to call for a appointment for repair with GE Appliance because I thought then it . .was something electrical. The technician came out & checked everything out, turned out it was not electrical, The technician went out to his truck got a light bulb from his truck, put it in & it worked. It cost me $121.00 for trip charge from GE appliance for a light bulb that worked, your light bulbs were defective twice. Very disappointed with your products, cost me alot of money for a good light bulb thru GE appliance
Thanksgiving was coming and I needed extra oven space. So I ordered an additional rack. Installation ... just put it in the oven. My part came the day after I ordered it.
the flame spreader through the years, developed a hole above the glow coil causing the above trapped gas between the oven pan and spreader to ignite. by replacing the flame spreader the problem is gone and is now working properly. thank you, parts select for being there when i needed the part and also being reasonably priced. mike marino
While I was waiting on another part to arrive, I decided it would be a good time to do a thorough cleaning. When I lifted the top of the range, I lifted it to far and cracked both front burner tubes. The top of the range should not be lifted more than 4 inches without removing the 3 screws that hold each burner in place. When the new lines came in, I removed both front burners, knobs, and then removed the front plate behind the knobs using a Phillips screwdriver. The screws are located on the bottom of the plate. Using my adjustable wrench I replaced the lines. Then I CAREFULLY bent the gas tubes and remounted the burners. Over all an easy install. Just be careful, the gas tubes are aluminum and will break very easy. This is the second time I used PartSelect, and I am very satisfied.
I thought that when the burner didn't light it was the control valve at fault. After shutting off the gas, I changed the valve by removing the wires, undoing the tubing, then unscrewing the unit from the back of the unit. This worked one time. It turns out that if there isn't enough voltage from the burner, the valve won't open. I found this out after I mistakenly thought that the new valve was faulty. Check the voltage from the burner before you do anything else.
Pretty easy in all. The connector from the igniter to teh power sorce didn't quite fit. Ijust cut off the new one and spliced the old one back on. Probably could have made my life easier if I took off the oven door, but it just meant I had to reach more. Works great, and other the connector, which I didn't really think would fit a 15 year old oven,it was very easy/.
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
6 of 7 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
burner tubes both had pin holes in them and the ignighter didnt work
This was a real easy job and a success,of course any repair i do on a gas appliance and when finished It doesnt blow up i consider a success. Thank you,David Williams
This would've been an easy repair, but I ran into some complications.
First I removed the thumb screws holding the bottom oven pan, took the pan out, and also took the bottom panel off the front of the oven.
This gives you access to the burner assembly. I disconnected the wire to the ignitor. I then removed one screw at the front, and two in the back of the burner assembly with a 1/4 socket wrench.
The burner assembly came out. I tested the ignitor for continutiy with a multimeter to ensure this was the faulty part. There was not continuity, so I knew the ignitor needed to be replaced.
This was when I tried to unscrew the ignitor, and both screws stripped their threads on the burner mounting plate. Complication #1. Seems with age, that mounting plate tightened up on the screws.
I cut the screw heads off with a dremel and cutting wheel to get them out. I'm glad I did this before ordering the new part because I needed to order the replacement screws too.
The burner mounting plate for the ignitor needed to be re-tapped to get the new screws in with a 10-32 tap and power drill.
Once the mounting plate was properly rethreaded, I attached the new ignitor, and reattached the burner assembly to the oven.
When trying to connect the wires, the plastic connectors wouldn't click together. They matched up fine, but wouldn't go all the way in. Complication #2. While the plastic connectors were properly mated, the inside pins were both female. The old ignitor had male pins on it, the new one had female pins. So I removed the burner assembly again, cut off the new ignitor connector and spliced in the old ignitor connector with the included porcelain wire nuts.
I put the oven back together again, fired it up, and it worked great.
