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Lights so dim, could not read
This is the simplest repair in the world! A lot of money for the part but worth every penny! Looks like a new oven. Far better than spending $4000.00 on a new double oven
I removed the two mounting screws and pulled the harness through the opening unsnapped the sensor from the harness and installed the new sensor i didn't have to used the adapters the new sensor fitted
Maytag range had "F3" code display, oven would not work.
Oven sensor replacement was easy. Thermistor was installed in less than 15 minutes. After installation STILL had "F3" error message. Harness was ok, "Clock" or ECU needed to be replaced. "Computer" is obsolete, no spares available, some companies will rebuilt for $400+. Since the stove was going to the landfill I had nothing to lose by taking the "Clock" apart. It has one chip that is probably the power supply and control chip, another chip is an EEPROM with 128 bytes of storage and the last is a darlington chip that controls the relays. Cleaned up everything that looked like it needed cleaning with alcohol. When I reassembled the unit the pins for the thermistor harness felt loose, so I took it apart, again, and found cold solder joints on all four pins. It must have been there all along but plugging and unplugging the harness finally broke out the solder so I could see it. Soldered the pins back in and now it all works. It's worth a try if you're getting the "F3" message. If the relays on your stove aren't working it would be a good idea to replace the darlington chip. Good luck.
The diagram on your website really showed me the part I needed. I had may part the next day and my son who is an IT man changed the part in under ten minutes.. I was very happy, because I thought I was going to have to get a new oven. I rely alot on timed usage.
Turned off power at breader box. Removed the glass face of the control panel. It was secured with 4 screws. The electronic clock was attached by four hex screws which were removed with a socket wrench. There are 4 electrical connections which must be removed and reattached to the new circuit board. They are keyed so you can't attach incorrectly. Reverse the order, turn the power back on and the LED's glow bright again. Unfortunately, the first part that was sent did not work. However, on the warranty placement a new part was sent right away. The turn around time was excellent, and the new part worked just fine.
Removed the oven from the wall. Removed back cover and unplugged sensor from the harness. Remove and replace sensor from inside the oven. Reconnect harness and reinstall back cover. Secure oven back into the wall.
Ordered part on line, part came within few days well wrapped and protected, very simple repair removed two mounting screws and two lead wires to remove burnt element, replaced with new one, wire were re-connected and the mounting screws secured the new element in place, about 20 min job.
The lower and upper circuit boards were blown do to a power surge
Shut of power to unit, removed front display panel, located lower circuit board. Removed the one screw holding existing board and installed new board, then swaped wires from damaged to new. re-installed front panel, turned pwoer back on, that was it. The unit is working well.
After doing an oven self clean cycle, oven temp couldnt be set correctly, heat element was warm,not hot
After trying to set the bake temp after the self cleaning, it would not heat up. I Googled the model number,selected your link because it mentioned my symptom,and said usually it is the temp sensor in the oven that gets damaged by the high self cleaning heat. Your site had a place to enter my model number. You provided a great exploded view of the parts, showing me my sensor,then you provided the part number of the kit i needed,and filled out the order form with payment method. Less than a week later I got my part with instructions. Your video showed me the two screws I remove from the front ,and I pulled the old part out and uplugged it's connector. Replacement was easy, and oven was fixed! Thank you for a great site! You held my hand through it all!
Flipped off breaker and removed oven door and pulled built in stove out so the back panel could be removed. Unplugged the sensor then removed the two screws securing the old sensor inside the oven and installed new sensor. Put stove back together and installed back into counter top, re-installed oven door, flipped on the breaker and oven works like new.
Top oven element works, but bottom element works only intermittently
Replaced the long Oven Sensor but have not resolved the root problem. Oven still will not reach required temperature. Bottom element becomes red hot, but turns off and will not start again.
Unscrewed 4 screws to remove the glass cover on the top of the double ovens. Unscrewed 4 screws holding the clock in place. Screwed the new clock in place, reinstalled the galss cover and screwed in the 4 screws.
One issue though is my double oven is 6 years old and I have replaced the clock twice, the last one lasted 2 years. Anyone know why this happens so fequently?
The display was getting extremely dim, but still worked
Turned off the power at the breaker. Opened the upper door, then removed the four screws directly under the control panel. Tilted the control panel out from the bottom, then lifted off. Disconnected the wires, removed the 4 nuts holding the clock panel in place, installed the new clock panel, then reversed the process.