Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Oven Cavity Thermal Cutout Open
Remove cover-the hardest part, as I needed to buy a new set of driver bits that included the dimpled security drivers to remove three screws. GE includes schematic and troubleshooting flow chart with the unit, taped inside the cover. Required more time to look up the part on-line and order it than time used to make the repair.
Remove the microwave cover. Requires a phillips screwdriver and a torx security bit/nut driver (there are two security type screws on the back...guess they don't want you to do this at home!). I had to buy the a security bit set (about $7). The diode is easily accessible on the right side under the fan. Requires removing on small phillips screw and unplugging on electrical connection. GE provides some instructions in an envelope on top (after cover removed). There is a warning/instruction to discharge the capacitor before service. This was not a problem for me. Actual diode replacement took 30 seconds. Whole job = 15 minutes.
I removed the cover this required a special star Apex tip witha hole in the center. $10 for a set at Lowes.Replaced the fuse and Thermal cut out at the same time. The oven woks like a charm.I would like to add that GE customer service was no help basically told me that it was a throw away unit. If they built it you can fix it.Hope this helps any DIY breathern outthere.
Microwave would not turn on. Lights and fan worked fine. Before the microwave stopped completely, it would turn the microware fan on even when door was open. I read the reviews and they were exactly the same issue that others were facing. Once I opened the front panel and got to the switches it was easy to figure out which switch was bad as it was the one that was soft (When clicking it). It was hard to take it out though (it seemed stuck). So, I used a plier to yank it out. I put in the new switch and everything worked just great! I would like to thank other comments that were left on the site to make my task much easier. Thank you (to the commenters on PartsSelect), you not only saved me money, but also ensured that I learn about the microwave more and give me the confidence that I could fix it.
I took instant pictures at each step to make sure I put the wires back correctly. Removed the front panel. Discharged the capacitor with a voltage meter. Removed parts in front of the magnetron. Removed and replaced the magnetron. Reassembled. Works find now. Small hands, a flashlight and a magnet (for dropped screws) would help. I did not need the pictures.
I slipped the new saucer out of the box and placed it in the microwave. I was very disappointed to discover that the new one didn't fly like the old one.
Turn off main power bracker. Removed fan vent, removed control panel, disconnect leads to the three monitor switches. Replaced the secondary switch (top). Reversed procedures.
Removed the above stove microhood. Removed the side panels & the top panel. Diode located on right hand side of microwave. Removed with screwdriver & replaced new diode. It's best to get the microwave schematic online to pinpoint location of the part.
Started with a burning smell and eventually no operation at all.
Took the screws out that held the oven case on. Looked around and found a connection on the oven cavity thermal cut out the plastic melted and black looking. I knew this was the problem but I checked the fuse anyway and the fuse was good, so I ordered the part from part select and they shipped it out fast and now my microwave is working again.
Microwave worked but oven fan came on when door was opened - should onlly come on when oven is operating.
Removed the microwave with the buit in housing from the cabinet. Removed microwave from built in housing. Removed outer cabinet giving access to remove control panel and smart board where switches are located. Removed control panel to get to smartboard. Removed smart board after disconnecting a few wires to allow easy removal. Individually removed and then tested each switch using multimeter. Found seondary Door Switch (bottom of smart board) operation to be intermittent (switch trip button extremely loose and rattle inside this particular switch) Ordered replacement part which came very quickly on standard shipping order. Put new switch on smart board and remounted, reinstalled control panel and reconnected various wire connectors previously disconnected. Then plugged in oven and tested for opertation - didn't work at all! But, after bleeding off capacior charge by removing connectors and discharging capacitor to ground, then reassembling control board and smart board into oven, then trying agian, it has worked perfectly ever since. Do not understand why capacitor disconnect/discharge was required but suspect this reset the control electronics. Easy fix and hope to get another 12 years out of this appliance which is used multiple times every day. Also have two other identical micorwave ovens, one is 20 years old, but these get used relatively infrequently.
So easy. Lifted off the rotating glass plate, removed the broken guide assembly, put in the new one and used the microwave. Easiest repair I ever made.