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Microwave completely stopped working
Turned out the issue was easily solved by replacing a single, inexpensive fuse.
First off, UNPLUG THE MICROWAVE.
The fuse is located under the plastic grill at the top of the microwave. It's held on by two screws. Once you've removed the screws and taken off the plastic grill, you go to the right side of the microwave and remove another screw that holds a small metal grill in place. Removing the small metal grill is probably the toughest part of this repair. You kind of have to rock it back and forth a bit to get it to release. Once that's off, you can get to the fuse. I removed the burnt out one with a pair of needle nose pliers. I also put a small piece of cardboard under the fuse when I did this so I didn't accidentally drop it into the innards of the microwave. I did the same thing when I replaced the new fuse. I then plugged the appliance back in and made sure it worked. Once that was confirmed, I replaced both grills.
After watching a few youtube videos, I used a phillips SD to take controll pannel off to access the switches that sense when microwave door is closed. Swapped out all 3 switched and mocrowave works like new. $20 fix (shipping included)
My 8 year old daughter cleaned the inside of the microwave with enough water to rival a tsunami. Resulted in a clean microwave with a fried out motor that no longer revolved. Part came quickly. Took cover and bottom off to get to the part. One screw held it on and a plug. Removed those, put on new part and she was good to go. No trip to home depot today.
Remove microwave outer cover. Turn on side & locate the upper & lower door switches. Better to replace in pairs even if one is ok. Remove the wire harness to each switch. Then replace switch and re connect the wire harness. Re attach outer cover and test to see if that solved the problem. If so then well done!!
Microwave would turn on and count down, but not heating and not rotate turntable. Pressing door up would occasionally start heat.
First I disconnected the power and opened the door. Then I removed the top screws holding the top vent louvers, then removed the screw at the top of the touch pad. The touch pad removes by sliding up slightly then tilting top out. I unscrewed two screws holding the door latch assembly. Press the tab to remove and replace switch. Reconnect wires, reseat latch mount by placing top bracket tab in place first, allign and secure with screws. Reseat touch pad by placing bottom tabs in first, tilt forward and press up to seat top tabs, secure with top screw. Secure vent louver screws, plug in and watch your microwave work again.
The most difficult thing was removing the star security screws Both Home Depot and Lowes have tools to do this. The repair was a piece of cake, may have taken 15 min. Unplug 120v, remove case, bulb, replace and reassemble. GE doesn't want consumers fooling around inside the case, so be careful.
1. turned off electricity -- unplugged the unit 2. removed 3 screws on top of top vent, removed vent screen then I located the little white cylindrical fuse and popped it out with a table knife. Then I popped in the new fuse. Replaced the vent screen and screws -- plugged in the appliance and it is working again.
Everything seemed to work with the controls, but when you pressed start the light would come on and nothing else. The turntable and heating system would not function.
I unplugged it, removed the outer shell with torque bits and a screwdriver, drained the main capacitor, and began debugging the circuit with my fluke multimeter, found the bad primary interlock, googled the part number, ordered the part, received it in 2 days, replaced the interlock in about 2 minutes, and put the cover back on. Fixed. Saved me about $200 over buying a new unit and was grateful for partselect's great service.
Suddenly had no heat. All else worked fine. A deep odd hum sound.
This did not fix my problem. I've ordered a new microwave.
First off, UNPLUG THE MICROWAVE.
The fuse is located under the plastic grill at the top of the microwave. It's held on by two screws. Once you've removed the screws and taken off the plastic grill, you go to the right side of the microwave and remove another screw that holds a small metal grill in place. Removing the small metal grill is probably the toughest part of this repair. You kind of have to rock it back and forth a bit to get it to release. Once that's off, you can get to the fuse. I removed the burnt out one with a pair of needle nose pliers. I also put a small piece of cardboard under the fuse when I did this so I didn't accidentally drop it into the innards of the microwave. I did the same thing when I replaced the new fuse. I then plugged the appliance back in and made sure it worked. Once that was confirmed, I replaced both grills.
took off upper grille and touch pad and removed the old line fuse and replaced with a new fuse ...turned on it is working fine...sources of help: UTube and GE manuel
Touch pad failed to respond to any programming effort
Went to onlin source, found a couple youtube videos then went to the GE site which had a not-too-easy that find trouble shooting guide. It was extremely helpful as it described a fuse as a fix 80% of the time for touch paid failure. I really didn't believe it would b a fuse, but it was the cheapest fix, $8. I got the fuse and was surprised to fine there are two of them on this model. I took a guess and replaced the top one ( neither fuse was black or burned to indicate a failure but the top one was a bit mor greyish). put it all back together and it works fine.
None of the manuals or schematic diagrams gave a clue as to where the damn bulb was and messing around in the guts of a microwave is not for the faint of heart. Once I found it the rest was easy -- take out the old bulb and put in the new one. Be careful reassembling the case -- microwave leakage is not good.
Removed screws holding outer shell. Pushed in door handle to identify faulty switch. Ordered part. Pryed switch out with screw driver and unplugged. reinstalled new switch. Presto. BUT... I did NOT use both hands while working on the microwave. I did not release the energy from the capacitor or whatever holds the killer amperage even when unplugged. It would be advisable to do this first. I did not because it seemed complicated, so I was EXTREMELY CAREFUL about not touching anything else inside the unit. I used one hand only so if I did touch something I would not get juiced through the chest. It was a piece of cake repair, but I would not go deeper without doing the discharge routine.
The turntable made a clicking noise, sometimes turned in the wrong direction, and wouldn't turn when there was any weight on the plate. Nothing appeared broken in the 3 spoked thing on whcih the plate sits. I replaced the motor, but this did not fix the problem; everything works fine until I put on the plate or any food on the plate. I now suspect that the wheels of the 3 spoked thing have worn down. They have flat spots on them. They don't turn when the motor turns, but drag. I suspect that this drag was what striped my first motor. I will next replace the 3-spoked thing.