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Element quit working
Important to unplug the appliance first. There were two screws which were at the top opening of the oven. They were a bit obscure, but with a bit a searching, I was able to find them. After removing those two screws, the entire top lifted up. There were four screws from the bottom of that assembly which were easy to find, and once removed, the top lifted of easily. I found it easier to remove the two power lines with two easy disconnects, this made it easier to work on the assembly. The element itself was held down by two simple clamps which required no tools. There were four easy to remove wires, and the element came right off. Simply reversing the process put it right back together, plug it in, and back to cooking again.
Only hitch I experienced was identifying the correct replacement. The original diagram presented the accurate shape of the element my range required. However a different shaped element was displayed when I noted my unit is a series 12 serial number. I ordered it (with reservations) and as it turned out the replacement was identical to mine. Next time I will have a lil more confidence in the instructions given.
Unplugged the power cord first. Opened oven door and removed the two screws that held the stove top glass down. Lifted the glass top and removed the four wires connected to the element. I taped the wires to the lid in the pattern they were attached to the element. remove the element from the brackets. The new element was an exact match. reversed the sequence. Put a pot of water on and boiled a hot dog! Perfect! Great part and speedy delivery!!
back R burner of ceramic top stove went out - died
1st - UNPLUGGED appliance from electrical source!! then removed screws to open ceramic stove top, disconnected wires from dead element, plugged in wires to new element, closed stove top, turned on burner - it worked!!
only problem is that "hot burner indicator" does NOT stay lit after burner is turned off!
Large Burner of large/small burner would not stay on, but switch to the small burner.
Remove the burner knobs. Remove front cover/access panel at base of range. Detach vent fan duct from the fan. Unplug range and slide out entire range from the counter about an inch. Remove the four nuts from the bottom of the oven control panel. Remove the two screws on either side of the oven control panel, have a second person available to hold on to the control panel as you remove the last screw. While second person is holding the control panel, remove the two screws holding the infinite switch into the control panel. Take a picture or note exact orientation of infinite switch in control panel. Mine had an ABCD orientation, with A to the left B on top. Take a picture or note exact orientation of two sets of wires going into the infinite switch. Unplug the two sets of wires from the infinite switch. Replug the two sets of wires into the new infinite switch. Reverse all steps. Enjoy!
Went well. Husband, who has some appliance repair experience, did repair in less than a hour. Replacement burner was not an exact duplicate of original but he was able to adjust for that.
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
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Very Easy to Install
Once it was identified that the Motor Relay was no longer functioning it became a very easy repair. I had the part in 2 days per the initial order information. Installation was merely insuring that each wire clip was connected in the EXACT location on the new Relay as on the old one; removing one at a time from the old to the new is key. This took all of 5 minutes at the most including replacing the front panel back on to the washer.
1) Remove 4 screws under front control panel. (Oven door needs to be open.) 2) Remove 2 flat head screws on sides of control panel. This will loosen control panel. Capture control panel to keep from hanging from wires/connectors. I used hooks made from a wire hanger. 3) Remove 2 screws to remove two steel panels on either side of stove. 4) Remove rear screw of the 2 front screws now exposed and 2 rear screws near top of stove. 5) Carefully flip over glass top being careful not to pull on the wires. 6) Identify burner to be replaced. Note 2 numbers where two clamps are attached to burner. 7) Using 3/8” nut driver, remove screws to allow removal of burner. Remove wires per included instructions. Remove burner. 8) Place new burner under clamps and align to the holes by the two numbers noted in step 6 above. 9) Connect wires to new burner as per included instructions. 10) Reverse removal steps.
Element was sent by buyer, As they recommended, when model of stove given to them. It was upper right rear. When element came. First took off old element. ...Match both element , new element did not look exactly the same, small variation. It did not come on.. I moved old element from left side to right side . Old element worked on both side .. tried new element on left side also.. still didn't work.. so I called right away and explained.. new element did not work.. not defective, but, just wasn't the right one.. I had a specialist came and check it out also. I was told wrong element.
Removed cooktop, wiring and coil. Marked where wires went on limiter tabs. Ordered coil 1200 Watt, received a 1500 one. Sent back to PS with prepaid shipping label {great}. New one had a different limiter tab arrangement. The instructions included warned this but doesn't tell you where to put the wiring. Instructions say to remove the old limiter and put it on the new coil but this can not be physically be done plus who would want an old limiter on a new coil. Found a YOU TUBE video on how to test and place wires on limiter switches which shows the number letter sequence on the ceramic part. Maybe PS will put that info in their instructions. Coil works great !!
First I cut electric power off removed the two screws that hold glass top lifted up and removed two screws that hold element in place. I disonnected the wires and then pulled the element out
The dryer was not able to stay on after pressing the start button
This was my second time having to fix this dryer and since it was apart previously i figured i would not have an issue remembering all of the screws that held the back of the dryer together. I carefully removed all of the connections (3) to the relay switch and replaced it with the new one and again was careful to handle the soldered connections while reconnecting them , once this was done i plugged in the dryer and low and behold it stayed on and has since been working with no further issues. Thank you Part Select for being there for us as we have a two year old and are expecting another child in april 2010 . Your availability is none surpassed. Thanks , Tim Lansing , Schenectady NY
first I checked continuity through the surface element (burner) switch (rheostat) which was fine. then found the screws holding the burner top on and removed, this made it possible to lift up the burner top and remove the burnt out surface element.which was easy to see. take down the number, buy a new one and re hook up the four wires to the new element. (always mark down where the wires went)
